draining power steering
#1
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Is there any convenient connection I can undo at the rack to drain the system completely? I assume if I undo any connection at the rack there's an o-ring that will need to be replaced? I've done a few exchanges of the ps fluid from the reservoir, but it was really dirty and I would like to drain the system fully.
Long story--7 years ago I had the ps "plastic squeak" which was cured by using the Jag additive. Did a fluid exchange back then with generic Dexron III. 70k miles later, the noise returned but only when the system was hot. I noticed how dark the fluid was with some small black particles in it. I did about 5-6 exchanges with Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Maybe overkill, but it actually cured the noise. It is also slightly annoying that when the car is hot, I can smell the ATF when I walk in front of the car. No leaks at all, so would like to replace with a more suitable ATF. I see Valvoline does make an power steering fluid and maybe that is less pungent.
Long story--7 years ago I had the ps "plastic squeak" which was cured by using the Jag additive. Did a fluid exchange back then with generic Dexron III. 70k miles later, the noise returned but only when the system was hot. I noticed how dark the fluid was with some small black particles in it. I did about 5-6 exchanges with Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Maybe overkill, but it actually cured the noise. It is also slightly annoying that when the car is hot, I can smell the ATF when I walk in front of the car. No leaks at all, so would like to replace with a more suitable ATF. I see Valvoline does make an power steering fluid and maybe that is less pungent.
Last edited by mhamilton; 07-19-2019 at 12:38 PM.
#2
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EsRay (04-05-2021)
#3
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On a car that old i would not remove(or try) the rubber return line. They get and a risk splitting the line or reservoir. I alway remove the lines on the rack, let the system gravity bleed out and moved the front tires left and right which pushes most all the old fluid out of the rack. Fill the reservoir all the way up, start for 5 seconds and shut off adding only to correct level then start again and let run till warm, no bubbles at add to correct level if needed. Btw we only used mobil 1 synthetic atf on these issues.
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mhamilton (07-19-2019)
#4
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On a car that old i would not remove(or try) the rubber return line. They get and a risk splitting the line or reservoir. I alway remove the lines on the rack, let the system gravity bleed out and moved the front tires left and right which pushes most all the old fluid out of the rack. Fill the reservoir all the way up, start for 5 seconds and shut off adding only to correct level then start again and let run till warm, no bubbles at add to correct level if needed. Btw we only used mobil 1 synthetic atf on these issues.
Thanks on the Mobile 1 ATF, I'll try changing to that.
#5
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Possibly a stupid question, but at what sort of intervals would you suggest syringing out the old from the reservoir and pouring in the new?
Thank you...
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#8
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Abonano, I am assuming that when the engine is running, the ATF continuously circulates around the system from the reservoir and back to it by the return hose; have I got that right, please?
Possibly a stupid question, but at what sort of intervals would you suggest syringing out the old from the reservoir and pouring in the new?
Thank you...
Possibly a stupid question, but at what sort of intervals would you suggest syringing out the old from the reservoir and pouring in the new?
Thank you...
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EsRay (04-06-2021)
#9
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After three-and-a-half years of ownership, I still believe in preventative maintenance, providing (whenever possible) it involves a minimum of disconnecting (especially plastic parts), unbolting etc, etc!
Last edited by EsRay; 04-06-2021 at 10:54 AM.
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