Driver's Window Problem
#1
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I am trying to troubleshoot our 2004 VDP’s non-working driver’s window. It does not work from either the drivers switch pack or the all down key control. All other windows work. The drivers switch tests okay, the fuse is good and there is power at the fuse. I am getting only about .1 volt via the brown and red wire to the plug that goes into the driver window motor assembly. (Ref Fig 14.1 of the 2003.5 Model Year Electrical Guide). This is with the ignition switch either off or on. Am I correct that this wire should deliver the positive side of 12 volts to the motor assembly? Connecting my ohm meter from the fuse to the brown and red wire did not show continuity.
As background there were a series of events that I think are unrelated but might be wrong. Earlier this year the window was frozen and the thermal overload stopped the motor. However, it worked fine later in the day. Sometime later my wife said the window did not work and when I tried it I could hear a soft whirling noise for a couple of seconds when the switch was moved. The next time I drove the car the window worked although there seemed to be a little squeaking noise. Subsequently it stopped working.
Sorry for long post. Advice would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
As background there were a series of events that I think are unrelated but might be wrong. Earlier this year the window was frozen and the thermal overload stopped the motor. However, it worked fine later in the day. Sometime later my wife said the window did not work and when I tried it I could hear a soft whirling noise for a couple of seconds when the switch was moved. The next time I drove the car the window worked although there seemed to be a little squeaking noise. Subsequently it stopped working.
Sorry for long post. Advice would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
#2
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Jim
Looking at the circuit diagram ... you're right ... there should be continuity between the Red/Brown at the motor unit and F37 in the Passenger Junction Fuse Box (the box in the cabin, in the side ahead of the door near the passenger's right knee (LHD, driver's knee if RHD). There's nothing else on that circuit.
There should be +12v on the other side of the fuse when the windows are energised.
An obvious place to start would be to check that all the plugs that go into the Pass Jn F Box are all correctly seated. If you can find the Red/Brown wire there check that it's not broken and the pin in the plug is okay.
Beyond that ... ?
Best of luck !
Dave in Gloucestershire
Looking at the circuit diagram ... you're right ... there should be continuity between the Red/Brown at the motor unit and F37 in the Passenger Junction Fuse Box (the box in the cabin, in the side ahead of the door near the passenger's right knee (LHD, driver's knee if RHD). There's nothing else on that circuit.
There should be +12v on the other side of the fuse when the windows are energised.
An obvious place to start would be to check that all the plugs that go into the Pass Jn F Box are all correctly seated. If you can find the Red/Brown wire there check that it's not broken and the pin in the plug is okay.
Beyond that ... ?
Best of luck !
Dave in Gloucestershire
Last edited by Partick the Cat; 03-18-2016 at 01:26 PM.
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jmbpharris (03-18-2016)
#3
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I wanted to provide resolution to the issue with the driver’s power window. I determined that the break in the brown/red wire that provided power to the window module was in the area of the accordion sleeve between the A-Post and the door. I spliced a bypass around that area and ran the new wire through the accordion sleeve. I must note that accessing the harness in the A-Post and reconnecting it was a challenge and required the removal of a number of items. Once this was accomplished the window worked fine. I did lubricate the slides while I had the mechanism exposed.
Although it took considerable time to isolate the area of failure and to repair the wiring, the cost of the repair was basically a few dollars for the replacement wire.
Thanks for the advice from the forum.
Although it took considerable time to isolate the area of failure and to repair the wiring, the cost of the repair was basically a few dollars for the replacement wire.
Thanks for the advice from the forum.
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