There are several U-tube videos on this but I could not find one for my exact model.
This exercise started with the following:

Took my SC off to replace valley hose at 103,000. Original hose was just fine.

Bought a used SC and had it rebuilt professionally with the following mods:

All new bearings.
Smaller pulley that needed snout grinding.
Rotors and gearing from a 2009 car.
Some porting. See pics.

After about 1,000 miles a rear bearing went.

Had it repaired under warranty.

Installed and uninstalled repaired SC after coolant leaks.

Final install managed to leave part of paper towel in intake elbow. When taking out the paper towel it ripped in half and I did not notice the half tucked away inside elbow!!! What an idiot!

Jammed SC on start up. Damaged one or both rear needle bearings.

Today finished putting in new rear needle bearings.

You can see the porting that was done in a couple of the pics. One shows the porting done on the inside of the rotor housing at the rear.

Also found a rather large burr in one of the guide holes which damaged one of the alignment pins. Filed down the alignment pin and drilled out the burr.

The puller I purchased, actually for a motorbike bearing, was slightly too large and I had to file it down a bit to fit. But worked fine.

also had to make a support so that the rear of the housing could be positioned flat in the press. Simply drilled out two holes in plastic wood.

 

Forgot this picture where I took out the needle cage and needle rollers before
extracting the bearing case. Have to do this before using
the "gear puller".

 

Can you not press the bearings out fom the rear . I thought the reason the you tube guys pulled them from inside was because the eaton m90 that is featured in most of the rebuild vidios has the back of the bearing covered by the casting to retain the bypass butterfly and shaft , and the bearings are simply not acsess able from the rear . Not the case on the jag m112, am I wrong?

 

Just curious: why did you buy a new SC to mod it instead of doing it on the old one?
Was it worn out?

 

Ok just to confirm the eaton m112 gen 5 blower on the 4.2 v8 and I suspect the gen 4 on the 4.0 jag's does not need a puller to pull the bearings out from the inside . The caps on the back of the bearing with the small breather hole is much like a frost plug , and a small tap from the inside with a suitable size punch or extention they just pop out , then I knocked the bearings inwards from the back with a socket and mellot , you can also punch them out from the inside but not as easerly .
there was very little resistance and no damage ,
I then used a flat backside of a 32mm socket with a 1/2" drive extention fitted in the socket back to front to press the new bearings in on a shop press From the in side of the blower . The large flat Area Of the socket guided the bearing straight all the way back to flush with the inner housing perfectly . Then just tap the caps back in from the rear with a socket witch fits Over the protrusion and your done .




As I suspected the puller is only nesersery on the m90 and m112 blowers
We're the back side of the bearing is obstructed by the bypass mechanism .

 

The old one is in great shape.

I just wanted to swap the rebuilt one in with least "wait time" plus the ability to go back to original. As it urns out a good move since I had to send the rebuilt one back to get new needle bearings...again.

Doing the same thing with my differential LSD build including half shafts.

 

I had read somewhere that one should not do that. Looks like you have proven that you can and therefore save a whole lot of hassle!

 

Embree Specialty Machine has build an inventive, decent, precision re-manufacturing operation for the Eaton supercharger including the Jaguar Eaton M90 Superchargers and the Jaguar Eaton M112 Superchargers. We manage a supercharger core supply to create it possible to recover crumbled parts when they can not be repaired economically.