Electronic Park Brake
#1
Electronic Park Brake
Does anyone know if there is a way of turning off the electronic parking brake function? I have heard it can be done but so far been unable to find out how you actually do it. Had a play round in the car and cant find anything obvious so figured its like the Jag bluetooth set up or something complicated
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Eric-in-Texas (11-22-2022)
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#8
Thanks Guys,
The root of my problem is the intermittent EPB Fault warning or the EPB stays engaged, unless you get out and unplug the ECB Module and replug it back in, and then you are good to go for however long it remains functioning.
I got my Father-in-law to look at the module, he actually took it apart and said all internals are fine and all communication channels are functioning normally and he strongly suspect that my intermittent problem is caused by a sudden power drop, either by something I am doing or a short or fault in an inline or ancillary process.
I am really short on time at the moment so I have not had chance to look at what sensors the vehicle has in these areas or even how the Park Brake System operates, so was looking for a short term quick fix.
I am not sure where to start looking, I have the later ECB Module that sits inside the rear wing/fender, I do have a module from a 2005MY car although the plug locations are in different locations I have not yet looked to see how the pin arrangements compare..
I have a feeling I will have to start at the rear wheels and work my way back to the switch- guess I am going to have to print off a wiring diagram and sweet talk my father-in-law to go at it with his test meter- I hate modern auto electrics.....
The root of my problem is the intermittent EPB Fault warning or the EPB stays engaged, unless you get out and unplug the ECB Module and replug it back in, and then you are good to go for however long it remains functioning.
I got my Father-in-law to look at the module, he actually took it apart and said all internals are fine and all communication channels are functioning normally and he strongly suspect that my intermittent problem is caused by a sudden power drop, either by something I am doing or a short or fault in an inline or ancillary process.
I am really short on time at the moment so I have not had chance to look at what sensors the vehicle has in these areas or even how the Park Brake System operates, so was looking for a short term quick fix.
I am not sure where to start looking, I have the later ECB Module that sits inside the rear wing/fender, I do have a module from a 2005MY car although the plug locations are in different locations I have not yet looked to see how the pin arrangements compare..
I have a feeling I will have to start at the rear wheels and work my way back to the switch- guess I am going to have to print off a wiring diagram and sweet talk my father-in-law to go at it with his test meter- I hate modern auto electrics.....
#9
Sorry for a bit of an off topic question?
Xalty do you know if the EPB can be changed to apply it when shutting off the car on the later XJ's (X351)?
This has always bothered me that the X351 XJ does NOT apply the parking brake when you shut off the car? Only works if manually applied using the console switch.
My old S-Type it did as well as my old Lincoln LS.
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Xalty do you know if the EPB can be changed to apply it when shutting off the car on the later XJ's (X351)?
This has always bothered me that the X351 XJ does NOT apply the parking brake when you shut off the car? Only works if manually applied using the console switch.
My old S-Type it did as well as my old Lincoln LS.
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#10
Intermittent fault such as "unable to release" (or "unable to apply" if it's not applied when the car starts) are classic low-voltage symptoms. Mine did that for months, and I didn't really care because I simply pressed the button when removing the key to prevent it setting. When I finally replaced my battery last month, it never happened again.
Before the battery replacement, if I did get a locked brake that wouldn't release, I'd simply disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Everything in the car resets and I'm good to go for a while.
Low voltage on these cars is seriously only tenths of a volt. Battery can be 12.1 instead of 12.5 and weird stuff happens.
These things take a BIG battery, about 900 cold-cranking amps capacity!
Before the battery replacement, if I did get a locked brake that wouldn't release, I'd simply disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Everything in the car resets and I'm good to go for a while.
Low voltage on these cars is seriously only tenths of a volt. Battery can be 12.1 instead of 12.5 and weird stuff happens.
These things take a BIG battery, about 900 cold-cranking amps capacity!
#11
The battery makes sense, my old 2.7tdv6 range rover ate them, I am loosing volts somewhere- I know I have an open circuit on the parking sensors so might replace them along with the battery
Potentially off topic- I have the dreaded egr limp mode syndrome, Both EGR's are good its just they are getting over used and sending the car into limp mode. I have ordered a new sensor (forget its name- but sits in the main intake plenum on top of the engine before it branches to each bank), I was going to change that and see if it did anything. If that doesnt cure it my attentions might turn to a potential air leak.
Thanks again for everyone's input so far
Potentially off topic- I have the dreaded egr limp mode syndrome, Both EGR's are good its just they are getting over used and sending the car into limp mode. I have ordered a new sensor (forget its name- but sits in the main intake plenum on top of the engine before it branches to each bank), I was going to change that and see if it did anything. If that doesnt cure it my attentions might turn to a potential air leak.
Thanks again for everyone's input so far
#13
12.1V is about 50% battery, 12.5V is 80% - and you're right the car needs a good battery & charged up!
#14
Has anyone thought this through enough to come up with a voltage stabilizer? Not sure what form it should take, but likely another smaller battery that always had like 14v to keep the computers happy. The engine still turns over when well, even when these low volts episodes happen, & it seems so unnecessary.
#16
It does annoy me that when I get in my car the seats move into position and then back when I turn it off, all the functions its runs before the engine has even turned over must have a massive drain on the battery, there must be a way we can limit the amount of these so called "quality of life benefits" the car offers- Surely If I need the seat and steering wheel moved out of the way so I can get in and out would be natures way of saying maybe I shouldn't be getting behind the wheel if I need this much help.
I am waiting for a new mongoose cable so I can run full diagnostics on my laptop, and also putting things off as I have the X Type in bits in my workshop right now and I hate working on that.
I am waiting for a new mongoose cable so I can run full diagnostics on my laptop, and also putting things off as I have the X Type in bits in my workshop right now and I hate working on that.
#17
@cornishcat Disable that seat auto-movement by putting the knob on the steering column, where you adjust the column and pedals, out of the AUTO position. For myself, I found that the seats moved back too far, actually slightly behind the B-pillar, requiring me to roll forward to get out of the car to get past the door post.
#18
@cornishcat Disable that seat auto-movement by putting the knob on the steering column, where you adjust the column and pedals, out of the AUTO position. For myself, I found that the seats moved back too far, actually slightly behind the B-pillar, requiring me to roll forward to get out of the car to get past the door post.