Engine Differences between X350 and X356
#1
Engine Differences between X350 and X355
After much deliberation I have decided to swap the engine on my XJ8L that has the blown spark plug in cylinder 7.
My car being an 06, is considered an x356. I also was able to confirm it comparing my vin with the ranges found on google.
I wanted to know if there is a difference the engines from an older x350 versus an x358?
If there isn't would the engines from an 05 or 07, fit right in?
If there is, would I need to swap any accessories from the old engine?
My car being an 06, is considered an x356. I also was able to confirm it comparing my vin with the ranges found on google.
I wanted to know if there is a difference the engines from an older x350 versus an x358?
If there isn't would the engines from an 05 or 07, fit right in?
If there is, would I need to swap any accessories from the old engine?
#2
#3
At the same time, further reading shows that the X356 is an from 2006 and 2007. So part of me wants to narrow down my search to those two years.
#4
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Hi
This book might be useful. It's the 2006 Technical guide and covers differences. Lots of good info on this site.
http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf
Best wishes for your engine change.
Pete M
This book might be useful. It's the 2006 Technical guide and covers differences. Lots of good info on this site.
http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf
Best wishes for your engine change.
Pete M
#5
Hi, it is to be expected that the later 4.2 V8s will have slightly modified electronic peripherals, but mechanically they are largely itentical.
The question of the modified electronics seems not to be important to me because all the control units remain in the car anyway and all the peripherals (sensors, actuators, valves, thermostats, etc.) could be taken over from the defective engine.
I would therefore not expect any problems that cannot be solved.
The question of the modified electronics seems not to be important to me because all the control units remain in the car anyway and all the peripherals (sensors, actuators, valves, thermostats, etc.) could be taken over from the defective engine.
I would therefore not expect any problems that cannot be solved.
#6
#7
Hi
This book might be useful. It's the 2006 Technical guide and covers differences. Lots of good info on this site.
http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf
Best wishes for your engine change.
Pete M
This book might be useful. It's the 2006 Technical guide and covers differences. Lots of good info on this site.
http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf
Best wishes for your engine change.
Pete M
Hi, it is to be expected that the later 4.2 V8s will have slightly modified electronic peripherals, but mechanically they are largely itentical.
The question of the modified electronics seems not to be important to me because all the control units remain in the car anyway and all the peripherals (sensors, actuators, valves, thermostats, etc.) could be taken over from the defective engine.
I would therefore not expect any problems that cannot be solved.
The question of the modified electronics seems not to be important to me because all the control units remain in the car anyway and all the peripherals (sensors, actuators, valves, thermostats, etc.) could be taken over from the defective engine.
I would therefore not expect any problems that cannot be solved.
I'm still trying to find a 06 or 07 XJ8 so that it would a direct (direct enough) swap.
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Broken spark plugs are very common on certain Ford engines (e.g. 5.4L Triton 3-valve), and special extraction tools are available. The design of the X350 NGK plugs is different, so there may be no applicability, but I thought I'd mention it since it is possible to save a Triton engine with a broken plug.
Can you get your phone over the #7 spark plug hole and take some photos? I know access is limited, but at least it's not cylinder #8!
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 03-01-2022 at 09:45 AM.
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hisport (11-28-2023)
#13
Hmmm... So you don't think there's any way to extract what remains of the spark plug? If the metal hex base of the plug is still intact, you may just need to work out any remaining porcelain chips that may be preventing a spark plug socket from seating on the plug base.
Broken spark plugs are very common on certain Ford engines (e.g. 5.4L Triton 3-valve), and special extraction tools are available. The design of the X350 NGK plugs is different, so there may be no applicability, but I thought I'd mention it since it is possible to save a Triton engine with a broken plug.
Can you get your phone over the #7 spark plug hole and take some photos? I know access is limited, but at least it's not cylinder #8!
Cheers,
Don
Broken spark plugs are very common on certain Ford engines (e.g. 5.4L Triton 3-valve), and special extraction tools are available. The design of the X350 NGK plugs is different, so there may be no applicability, but I thought I'd mention it since it is possible to save a Triton engine with a broken plug.
Can you get your phone over the #7 spark plug hole and take some photos? I know access is limited, but at least it's not cylinder #8!
Cheers,
Don
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Well, that is definitely one mangled spark plug!
Do you think the plug disintegrated while the engine was running, or just during removal?
If the plug didn't lose any pieces into the combustion chamber with the engine running, here's what I would personally try on my car:
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder 7 is at Top Dead Center (TDC)
Carefully put an extendable magnet down the plug well and withdraw all the magnetic pieces you can. Use the largest extendable magnet that will fit. Harbor Freight has one that is about 3/4 inch in diameter. If it will fit, it will pick up more magnetic pieces than a smaller magnet will with lower risk of knocking pieces into the spark plug hole.
Devise a means of vacuuming out the remaining particles. See if a section of 5/8 inch heater hose will fit into the spark plug hole. If not, try 1/2 inch hose or tubing. Secure a length of the hose to your shop vacuum hose, perhaps with duct tape. Vacuum out whatever remaining particles you can from the spark plug tube and cylinder.
Use your probe camera to inspect what remains. If the lower half of the spark plug threads remain in the cylinder head, it may be possible to turn them out with a broken bolt extractor. You have to find a way to get the extractor down the plug tube, and to secure it to whatever extension you use to be sure it can't fall through the spark plug hole into the cylinder. I often use electrical tape to secure a socket or tap to an extension when I really don't want it to fall off. Apply penetrating oil down the spark plug hole to help break the spark plug threaded sleeve free.
If you can twist out the remaining threaded spark plug sleeve, you may then be able to chase the threads in the head with a tap. I think it's a standard 14 mm spark plug thread, but confirm that on one of your undamaged spark plugs. After chasing/repairing the threads, use your vacuum hose and then blow out the cylinder with compressed air while holding a rag over the top of the spark plug tube.
If you cannot remove the remaining spark plug piece, or if the threads in the head are too damaged, you may be able to install a thread repair kit (HeliCoil is one brand, but there are others). This is not as difficult to do as you may think, as long as you are careful and follow the instructions.
What have you got to lose? Replacing the engine or even a cylinder head is a much bigger job.
Cheers,
Don
Do you think the plug disintegrated while the engine was running, or just during removal?
If the plug didn't lose any pieces into the combustion chamber with the engine running, here's what I would personally try on my car:
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder 7 is at Top Dead Center (TDC)
Carefully put an extendable magnet down the plug well and withdraw all the magnetic pieces you can. Use the largest extendable magnet that will fit. Harbor Freight has one that is about 3/4 inch in diameter. If it will fit, it will pick up more magnetic pieces than a smaller magnet will with lower risk of knocking pieces into the spark plug hole.
Devise a means of vacuuming out the remaining particles. See if a section of 5/8 inch heater hose will fit into the spark plug hole. If not, try 1/2 inch hose or tubing. Secure a length of the hose to your shop vacuum hose, perhaps with duct tape. Vacuum out whatever remaining particles you can from the spark plug tube and cylinder.
Use your probe camera to inspect what remains. If the lower half of the spark plug threads remain in the cylinder head, it may be possible to turn them out with a broken bolt extractor. You have to find a way to get the extractor down the plug tube, and to secure it to whatever extension you use to be sure it can't fall through the spark plug hole into the cylinder. I often use electrical tape to secure a socket or tap to an extension when I really don't want it to fall off. Apply penetrating oil down the spark plug hole to help break the spark plug threaded sleeve free.
If you can twist out the remaining threaded spark plug sleeve, you may then be able to chase the threads in the head with a tap. I think it's a standard 14 mm spark plug thread, but confirm that on one of your undamaged spark plugs. After chasing/repairing the threads, use your vacuum hose and then blow out the cylinder with compressed air while holding a rag over the top of the spark plug tube.
If you cannot remove the remaining spark plug piece, or if the threads in the head are too damaged, you may be able to install a thread repair kit (HeliCoil is one brand, but there are others). This is not as difficult to do as you may think, as long as you are careful and follow the instructions.
What have you got to lose? Replacing the engine or even a cylinder head is a much bigger job.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 03-07-2022 at 09:26 AM.
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