Engine Mount Removal & Replacement
#1
Engine Mount Removal & Replacement
There is a strong possibility I need to replace at least the left engine mount on my '06 Super V 8 (105K miles). From what I've gathered here and elsewhere, the left mount is the one most likely to fail and the most difficult to replace due to the steering column being on that side (LHD). I'm figuring on replacing all three while I'm at it, especially since I'm already doing the hard one. This looks to me like a job that would be MUCH easier with a lift, which I do not have.
I was unable to find a comprehensive thread on the subject so a couple of questions:
1. My main symptom is a distinctive clunk when going over even a slight bump. I need to confirm the mount is bad but to me, it seems more likely than a suspension issue. Does this make sense? I've read several threads about clunks and suspension parts being replaced and not solving the problem.
2. On one YouTube video I watched, the guy had all kinds of trouble getting the mount out because of the strap on it. What purpose does the strap serve and any pointers on avoiding any issues with it?
3. There are several aftermarket brand mounts available. Any experience with any of these, either positive or negative?
4. Anything I may have overlooked or any advice from anyone who may have undertaken this not so easy job?
Thanks in advance
I was unable to find a comprehensive thread on the subject so a couple of questions:
1. My main symptom is a distinctive clunk when going over even a slight bump. I need to confirm the mount is bad but to me, it seems more likely than a suspension issue. Does this make sense? I've read several threads about clunks and suspension parts being replaced and not solving the problem.
2. On one YouTube video I watched, the guy had all kinds of trouble getting the mount out because of the strap on it. What purpose does the strap serve and any pointers on avoiding any issues with it?
3. There are several aftermarket brand mounts available. Any experience with any of these, either positive or negative?
4. Anything I may have overlooked or any advice from anyone who may have undertaken this not so easy job?
Thanks in advance
#2
1. My main symptom is a distinctive clunk when going over even a slight bump. I need to confirm the mount is bad but to me, it seems more likely than a suspension issue. Does this make sense? I've read several threads about clunks and suspension parts being replaced and not solving the problem.
Sounds like it could possibly be your sway bar bushings or sway bar endlinks
2. On one YouTube video I watched, the guy had all kinds of trouble getting the mount out because of the strap on it. What purpose does the strap serve and any pointers on avoiding any issues with it?
The strap is contained to the mount itself. It does not connect to any part of the engine or subframe so I'm not sure why the guy was having trouble. Its a non-issue.
3. There are several aftermarket brand mounts available. Any experience with any of these, either positive or negative?
I used Maxmount brand parts off ebay with no issues. They were around $25 each back when I did the job in 2017. The transmission mount is a bit more expensive. I got mine at RMEuropean.
4. Anything I may have overlooked or any advice from anyone who may have undertaken this not so easy job?
Its actually a very simple job, you just have to take it nice and slow and follow the steps.
Basic instructions:
Engine Mounts:
-Make sure all four corners of the car are up and level. I used ramps for the front and then jacked up the rear. The car MUST be level.
-Crawl under and disconnect the steering column from the steering rack. Make sure to mark the position for when you reconnect it
-Unbolt the steering rack from the subframe and secure it so that it doesn't yank on the power steering tubes, etc (I just placed it on top of a jack stand) (no need to undo the rack if you're only doing the passenger side mount)
-undo the nuts securing the bottom of the mounts to the subframe (one each side)
-Secure the engine either by using a support brace across the top or by carefully jacking it up by the oil pan (jacking is what I did-just take it nice and easy)
-undo the four bolts holding each mount bracket to the engine
-lift the engine up until you have enough room to yank the mount/bracket out
-remove the old mount from the bracket and bolt on the new one
-installation is reverse of removal
Transmission Mount:
-again, make sure the car is completely level
-secure the transmission with a jack and a block of wood across the pan
-undo the four big bolts that secure the cradle to the car and the one or two bolts connected to the transmission
-remove the mount from the cradle and then installation is reverse of removal
Sounds like it could possibly be your sway bar bushings or sway bar endlinks
2. On one YouTube video I watched, the guy had all kinds of trouble getting the mount out because of the strap on it. What purpose does the strap serve and any pointers on avoiding any issues with it?
The strap is contained to the mount itself. It does not connect to any part of the engine or subframe so I'm not sure why the guy was having trouble. Its a non-issue.
3. There are several aftermarket brand mounts available. Any experience with any of these, either positive or negative?
I used Maxmount brand parts off ebay with no issues. They were around $25 each back when I did the job in 2017. The transmission mount is a bit more expensive. I got mine at RMEuropean.
4. Anything I may have overlooked or any advice from anyone who may have undertaken this not so easy job?
Its actually a very simple job, you just have to take it nice and slow and follow the steps.
Basic instructions:
Engine Mounts:
-Make sure all four corners of the car are up and level. I used ramps for the front and then jacked up the rear. The car MUST be level.
-Crawl under and disconnect the steering column from the steering rack. Make sure to mark the position for when you reconnect it
-Unbolt the steering rack from the subframe and secure it so that it doesn't yank on the power steering tubes, etc (I just placed it on top of a jack stand) (no need to undo the rack if you're only doing the passenger side mount)
-undo the nuts securing the bottom of the mounts to the subframe (one each side)
-Secure the engine either by using a support brace across the top or by carefully jacking it up by the oil pan (jacking is what I did-just take it nice and easy)
-undo the four bolts holding each mount bracket to the engine
-lift the engine up until you have enough room to yank the mount/bracket out
-remove the old mount from the bracket and bolt on the new one
-installation is reverse of removal
Transmission Mount:
-again, make sure the car is completely level
-secure the transmission with a jack and a block of wood across the pan
-undo the four big bolts that secure the cradle to the car and the one or two bolts connected to the transmission
-remove the mount from the cradle and then installation is reverse of removal
#3
Thanks for the reply, a lot of good tips. That doesn't sound too bad. Going back, the video was for an S-Type, that's all I could find. Apparently there is no bracket on that model or he didn't know better so he was struggling with removing the top nut and pulling out just the mount. If I understand correctly, the bracket/mount assembly is not difficult to remove?
Does anything else need to be removed or disconnected to raise the engine? Air intake, maybe?
I'm seeing prices more like $225 each which is what I was expecting. Typo?
This would be the bracket? Sorry for all the questions, I just like to gather information from the knowledgeable.
Does anything else need to be removed or disconnected to raise the engine? Air intake, maybe?
I'm seeing prices more like $225 each which is what I was expecting. Typo?
This would be the bracket? Sorry for all the questions, I just like to gather information from the knowledgeable.
Last edited by thegreenjaguar; 09-18-2019 at 05:08 PM.
#4
Yes, you will need to remove the air intake. And yes, that is the mount bracket. Getting to the bolts will be a bit tricky (but not difficult) so you'll need a good assortment of wobbly extensions but once that's done and you've lifted the engine a bit, you'll have no trouble maneuvering the brackets out. I also used blue loctite on every bolt when reinstalling.
No typo...they're right around $25-30. Here is one from Rockauto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...430955&jsn=378
No typo...they're right around $25-30. Here is one from Rockauto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...430955&jsn=378
#5
The bracket holding the motor mount is in two pieces bolted together, I found that disassembling it into the two pieces made it much easier and certainly easy to do.
One thing I failed at was getting the steering connector off. No way would it budge. As I was replacing the alternator at the time replacing the motor mounts was a 2ndry objective.
One thing I failed at was getting the steering connector off. No way would it budge. As I was replacing the alternator at the time replacing the motor mounts was a 2ndry objective.
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HJ808 (09-26-2022)
#6
#7
Yes, you will need to remove the air intake. And yes, that is the mount bracket. Getting to the bolts will be a bit tricky (but not difficult) so you'll need a good assortment of wobbly extensions but once that's done and you've lifted the engine a bit, you'll have no trouble maneuvering the brackets out. I also used blue loctite on every bolt when reinstalling.
No typo...they're right around $25-30. Here is one from Rockauto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...430955&jsn=378
No typo...they're right around $25-30. Here is one from Rockauto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...430955&jsn=378
This is starting to seem like just another job and not the nightmare I was making it out to be. The only possible real obstacle I foresee is getting the steering connector loose as mentioned by jackra_1. I've had some trouble with those on other vehicles but will make sure I prevail here.
Last edited by thegreenjaguar; 09-19-2019 at 12:35 PM.
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#9
#10
Oh another thing I just remembered...when you've got the new mounts in, be sure to lower the engine very very very slowly, always checking to make sure the bottom bolt on the mount is lining up properly with the hole in the subframe. As the rubber in the new mounts is very stiff, you may have to manhandle them to get them in the right position.
#12
In the very small space that I had I could not find ant leverage except for placing a bar on top of the steering rack knuckle itself which I did not want to damage.
A bolt cracker of the correct size placed with the sharp end in the crack is what I will use if I do this again.
#13
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