Thanks for the input. I been looking for several days for wiper stalks but only found ones for X308s. There was one used one for $222 but I thought that was too expensive. I paid a website to look for the part and finally found a used one at a reasonable price. I should get it next Monday. We shall see if it fixes the problem. If not I'll remove the rear engine compartment cover and disconnect the wiper motor to see what happens. Thanks for the help.

 

I need to replace the cabin filter, clean drains, and look over inside.
Wanted to see if this is the problem and how much effort is it to access the wiper motor.

 

Markvman

Have you checked the drains?

I now think that a blocked drain is the most likely culprit.

With a blocked drain water can affect the ECU.

One drain is just below pollen filter and there is another from the wiper arms

 

Thanks so much for the information and the link. Sounds like it might be blocked drains. I'm researching to find out where they are and how to clean them. Are they behind the cabin air filter? Thanks again.

 

OK I opened up and found cabin air filter was black and under it was a collection of leaves and junk. I cleaned it out and ordered new filter(s). Garden hose is ion for a few hours but engine still quit when wipers turned on with no filter. Drains may still need cleaning out. Need to get plumbing fixture to replace broken (frozen and cracked in winter) hose connection. Will keep you posted. Thanks for link - sounds identical to my problem. On way to plumbing store.

 

Meirion1. After looking at your post and reference I was certain that I had same problem as "mad electrical problems" - same OBD indications and problems with engine. After I took the cabin filter out there indeed was a large accumulation of dried leaves and junk there. I cleaned everything out and ran water down both drains until they ran clear. However, the engine still stops whenever the wipers are turned on. And now I even get an occasional brief abs and traction annunciation on the instrument panel. I have had a steady check engine indication for some time but only the readings indicated on the OBS codes (P1967 & 68). I'm going to change the wiper stalk when the replacement comes in to see what happens. In the previous link the fellow said his ECU was trashed by the leaves in the air filter area. ???? Thanks again.

 

In the previous link the fellow said his ECU was trashed by the leaves in the air filter area. ????

He meant that water damaged his ECU after leaves blocked the drain.

No need for a garden hose! just ensure that water runs away when you put some in the drain.

IF you have large accumulation of leaves then it is possible that the drain was blocked at some point.

IMO you need to inspect the ECU and DTC's indicate this.

ECU is in the bulkhead near pollen filter,others may be able to tell you

exactly how to access it, or search forum for info.

 

Thank you for the message and references. It appeared that my problem was identical to "Mad electric". When I opened the air filter box it had a considerable amount of leaves and needles under the filter but they were dry and the drain was not blocked. I did clean out both drains and ran water through them. But no difference on the wiper/engine problem.

I plan on replacing the wiper stalk when the item arrives. Hopefully that will solve the problem. If I have to replace the ECU it may be more of a problem - I have been unable to locate a 2005 XJ8 unit for less than $300+. Will order that as a last resort. If the wiper stock does not work I will disconnect the wiper motor to see what happens. Still a bit nervous about reconnecting the plastic cover panel to the bottom of the windscreen after removal. Thanks for all the help.

 

Here's the latest update as of 1 May. I have cleaned out around the cabin air filter and the drains. I have replaced the wiper stalk. But there is no difference-the engine quits if the wipers are turned on. It appears the problem must be in the wiper motor, Wiring or perhaps a deadliest ECU. I was thinking about removing the rear bonnet Cover panel and disconnecting the wiper motor to see if there's any difference but I am still nervous about "tearing" it off at the bottom of the windscreen. I'm even having a difficult time finding a 2005 XJ8 ECU if it comes down to that. Any other thoughts? Thanks for everything fellas.

Robert

 

You are getting there!

Yes unhook the wiper motor but I would have done this before changing the stalk. But it's too late now.

Yes remove the PCM to inspect it. It is mounted directly below the pollen filter and several people have got water in it and had problems. You should look for water stains on the case and then open it up to look at the circuit board condition.

I don't think the PCM is your problem and it's a bit of effort to remove. You need to remove the glove box to get at it and that's not hard but it is work and you could break some plastic if not careful.

One quick suggestion. Remove the fuse for the wiper before doing anything. That should tell you right away what to do next.
.
.
.

 

+1 on that
If it's any module it will be the REM then the FEM

The FEM controls the Wipers, Lights, switch packs amongst others and most important the "switched power relays"

These relays are controlled by both the FEM and REM

Importantly the REM powers the fuel pump and runs the fuel cutoff.

The FEM is located behind the left-hand cowl side trim panel.
The REM is located in the boot behind the right side trim panel.

If it was my car the first port of call would be to diagnose with SDD

First remove existing codes and repeat the fault
Next read the codes and act on any that are now present
If you dont have any codes Id reflash the REM, FEM and if these don't work then the ECU

Check the battery status as well. The FEM and REM are notorious for corrupting with a low battery

Hope that helps
Cheers
34by151

 

Thanks to everyone for the posts. I'm getting a little crazy now trying to fix this. With the 40 amp fuse out the car starts and runs okay with the wipers on or off. Swapping the wiper relays makes no difference-the engine quits when the wipers are turned on. With the relays both out there is a continuous whining coming from the front right of the vehicle near the fuse box. Still no appropriate OBD codes. As a person who is mostly worked with noncomputer vehicles I'm not sure how to "reflash the REM, FEM and if these don't work then the ECU". Several people have mentioned cleaning the wiring connector at the motor or checking the ground. I've managed to locate the wiring connector but I am not sure how to disconnect it without breaking the connector. Any thoughts on how I should go about "checking" or "repairing" the ground? Still unable to remove the rear of the plastic cover from the bottom of the windscreen. This is turning into a real pain in the tush. My "experts" in England have suggested that it must be the ground. Thanks again for the help fellas. Take care

 

So with the fuse out you cant replicate the issue?

Can you also confirm the 40A fuse you removed is F26 from the front fuse box

Can you try replacing F26 (40Amp) and removing fuse F12 (10Amp) from the passenger fuse box. This is the fuse that powers the FEM that in turn controls the wipers

If you can give the a try and let us know the results

You can reflash the modules using SDD/Mongoose

Do you have the JTIS manuals, if not download an install them. It will tell you step by step how to remove the cover

You can check the earth (ground) with a multimeter. After removing the plug measure the resistance with one probe on a good earth point and the other on at the plug. If you get an open circuit the earth is not connected. A good connection will be close to 0 ohms ad bad one will be in between

Cheers
34by151

 

OK thanks again. It is the 40A fuse at F26. I looked at the manual fuse locations and it showed that in the passenger fuse panel both F12 and F14 powered the FEM. I pulled F14 first - the engine ran with the wipers on but I got "DSC not available" and "ABS Fail" annunciations. When the wipers were switched on or off there was a slight burble in the engine at idle but it kept running and the annunciations staying on as long as the wipers were running. I replaced F14 and pulled F12. The engine ran with the wipers on but I got red & amber lights, “Air Suspension Fault”, "DSC not available" and "ABS Fail" annunciations. When in the wipers were switched on or off there was a slight burble in the engine at idle but it kept running. As soon as engine smoothed out the lights and annunciations extinguished. I repeated this several times with same result.

I have another OBD Reader that has worked in the past with Jaguar and a new Mongoose. However, I am unable to load the mongoose software or manuals and do not know how to “reflash” with it. I thought I had all of the JTIS manuals but so far I haven’t been able to find anything detailing how to remove the rear engine compartment cover at the windscreen. I have been able to raise it enough to access the wiper motor electrical connection. I looped a tie around the wipers side so the connector doesn’t ”disappear”. It appears that sliding a screwdriver on one side of the connector will release it but I’m fearful about breaking the connection (which I have done in the past not knowing the release mechanism). I cannot pull it out enough to see all the sides of the connector.

I was planning on spraying the connector contacts with cleaner and possibly rewiring a new ground if the resistance is to high. Any more thoughts? My guess looking at what happened is that something is wrong with the FEM – possibly cured by re-flashing?? Thanks for any suggestions.

Take care.

 

My guess is a low battery condition corrupted the FEM
Its vary vary rare for the modules to fail

The next step is to get your SDD running

Let us know what the issues are with your SDD so we can help you with that
Once the SDD is running the next will be to reflash the FEM

I can guide you though step by step or we can do a remote session and do it together however my timezone is UTC+10 so that may limit the time window

Cheers
34by151

 

I have an OBD Reader that has worked in the past and seems to be working now. But I don't know how to "reflash with it". The problem with the Mongoose is that the computers I use here in New York here are Macintosh and none of the software they sent me is compatible with the Macintosh. I have a PC laptop here but for some reason cannot get it to boot - apparently I'm not using the right sign-in. That computer was only used for the security monitoring here in the past but has been replaced with a new DVR for Mac.

The car battery got low but not dead before I charged it up. I have had battery problems on all my x308s and x350s because they sit quite a bit at the airport or in my garage (the x350s seem much better than the x308s). I solved this problem on the x308s by installing a solar cell on the rear parcel shelf - and never had a problem after that. But the routing of the wiring from the parcel shelf to the battery on the x350 is a bit more convoluted and I did not install one yet on this vehicle.

If the voltage gets real low does it destroy the FEM? Or does it just make it necessary to "reflash" it? Do you need a operative software on the mongoose to "reflash"? Although they were somewhat more complicated and expensive, previous systems that I have used could reset OBD readings and modules on vehicle without software. But apparently these simpler home modules cannot do that.

There really is no problem with the time changes if we want to do work real-time. However it will be necessary to take the car outside as my wi-fi does not work well in the garage or barn areas where I keep the vehicles. I am working all kinds of hours day and night on my cars and house here. The house is in the country in upstate New York near Niagara Falls. We had over 2 m of snow in three days in early December and then it melted the next week. I have 300 m high hill behind the house and a farm field at the top. The house is old (1823) with a stone basement. After this melted there was a bit of external damage and I had a large indoor swimming pool in the basement that has required a great deal of repair work.

To top it off, my XJ8 was totaled by a snowplow as I was leaving here for the airport.
I keep the x350 as my summer car here and use an older x308 as my winter car - there is a large problem with automobile rusting here due to the salts used on the road. I usually use an older car for the winter - even Jaguars rust badly up here. In addition to the work on the house and x350 I had to drive a 99 x308 from Los Angeles to Dallas to upstate New York as a replacement. Before I left it needed quite a bit of work to have a fighting chance of making it here without problems (it is the first modern Jaguar I owned and it worked perfectly coming here). It was damaged by hail some years ago and now the clear coat needed re-painting. So I’ve had to sand it down and repaint in addition to everything else. It is currently in epoxy primer. The weather suddenly turned cold here so it will probably stay in primer for a while.

So I have an airport car and a nicer car (all Jaguars) in Texas and in New York. Because I was heavily involved with Jaguar – racing and having a restoration business – prior to my accident, many of my friends have been very kind to me lately. They tell me of deals that they find in the US and England. I paid less than 1/2 the cost of a new Jaguar for all four of these and they were under warranty when purchased. Most required some work and that is how I learned more about the newer cars – previously I worked on 1949-1968 Jaguars only. I am still learning and am very ignorant about many aspects of these cars.

I certainly appreciate all your help and apologize for being a bit of pain. Thanks again. Take care.

 

Last night this x350 was kept outside because I hadn't finished painting the x308. I was planning to take the 350 to the paint store this morning but thought I should check out the wipers first. SURPRISE!! This morning the engine quit when you turned the wipers on regardless of whether the F12 and/or F14 fuses were in or not! The only difference between yesterday and today is that it is colder today (was near freezing last night) and we had some light rain (just a little bit on the hood and roof of the 350).

I don't know if this throws a monkey wrench into the works or makes it easier to figure out what the problem is. But I am certainly tired of troubleshooting the newer Jaguars - Both my 350s have required some major work in the last few months. And the 308s have needed replacements of rubber and plastic parts that perished, throttle bodies, suspension repairs, fuel pump replacements and all have broken cup holders with very little usage (2000 miles per year) in the few years I have had them. I love these vehicles when they are functioning but I the newer 4 Jaguars have needed more work in the few years I have owned them than my 25 or so Jaguars put together over 48 years. I guess that is the price of having cars that are 12 computers on 4 types. Much of the complexity is due to automatic systems that check fluid levels, tyre pressures, lights, etc. because people now are too lazy to properly take care of their vehicles.

 

OK to Clarify

OBD is a standard that all cars adhere to
A generic code reader will read these codes. One of these is the service reset so most will be able to reset them
The Jag also has non obd codes that are only read by the Jag cable (mongoose) and software IDS/SDD.
The Diagnotstic plug also has extra pins that are used by the mongoose to talk to these non OBD systems and codes

This is why you need a mongoose to reflash the modules

Your VIN contains all that SDD needs to configure your car. A full list of vins is built into the software. So when we reflash the module is the same as updating the firmware on say a printer it uploads the new "operating" code to the module and then uses the VIN to upload the config.

Now some systems are dealer fitted options. SDD can not know if they are fitted from the vin. This is why it asks you if these are fitted when you first scan the VIN. This is done so these system can be then scanned and the correct config uploaded to modules

As for a Mac its just Deban unix with a Mac style GUI on top. As a linux user I had a Macbook pro for some time as they are a great performer. I did however ditch the mac front end for KDE which is IMHO far better. Latter on I also ditched Deban for SUSE but hats another story.

You have some good chices on the MAc for virtual machines.
Virtualbox is free and very very good.
VMware is also good but one of the most expensive.
Parallels is reasonable cheap but has the advantage of app virtualization. IE a windoze app will run the VM but appear to run in the Mac Desktop

Finally you have boot camp but this is not a VM its a dual boot for your mac. You can choose to boot into MAc or Windows

As foe the Windows you need Winxp SP3 or Win7 X86 (not x64). You need to have Java6, Acrobat and Flash and IE8 (no latter) installed.

Obviously if you go the VM path the mongoose usb needs to be passed to the VM
It runs best with 4Gb of ram but 2 will do


As for you volts question. Low volts can corrupt the config and in rare cases the the software. I have never seen a reported case of low volts killing a module.
The cure is always to reflash it. If the fails you need a new module.

Some modules like the ECU are locked to a VIN and you cant just swap them in as they are configured for another cars option and depending on the module the VIN.
The ECU is and example of this as it stop a thief caching VINS to get around security

Regardless of the module after swapping them in they will talk on the bus and all that is needed to reflash with the correct data


Hope that helps
Cheers
34by151

 

Great. Unfortunately the pc laptop here is a w8 unit. Not all that pleased with it even when it is operative. Thanks for all the info on the tech side. I think it will be easier if I bring an older pc laptop/desk system here. I will look them over to see which meet your win requirements. I had to relearn computers and have refurbished them for handicapped folks for some years - there are several in Texas. Sounds like you are really up with the latest s/w - unfortunately I am not as up to date. I was a chip and s/w designer much before my accident but had to relearn everything (including English) and am a bit behind. Have a couple dual boot machine in Dallas for work with patients and doctors. Thanks for the information - I will pick up an older pc and give it a try with the mongoose. Take care.

PS Here is a pic of one of my cars still being repaired. Hopefully on road next year - was concourse winner but badly damaged by vandals while I was hospitalized and required total rebuild. It was trash when purchased and I spent hundreds of hours rebuilding it in 1986-8. It was rehab and somewhat good to discover I could still do some work on it after my accident but I am currently stuck on some of its electrical wiring - and the wiring on that car is about as basic as it gets.

 

Once you get the laptop sorted let me know

Cheers
34by151