George C. After reading your posts about this DSC Failure/ABS failure Amber warning light on check engine **** I am experiencing, thank you! My problem is that I have purchased the CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner and have no idea where to apply it to. From what I am reading I need to find the air filter area under the hood. Can you help me out? I have a 2006 XJ8. Thanks.

 

Four letter vulgar words in your first post won't win you any friends.

 

When you stand at the front of the car with the bonnet/hood open, looking rearward, on the drivers side. There is an almost flat black cover, where this ends there is a black plastic rectangular box connected to a black approximately 5 inch diameter pipe. This black box contains your air filter.You can open it and inside is the air filter that can be removed and replaced if necessary. All air entering the throttle body has to pass through this filter. The air then passes through the approx., 5 inch black pipe, past the MAF (mass air flow sensor) which you can see mounted approx 1/2 way along the 5 inch black pipe. The MAF has wires connected and is held in position by 2 screws. Unscrew these two screws and the MAF will slide out/ up. Be very gentle with it, but clean it with MAF sensor cleaner and put it back.
Before I would do anything I would ask yourself the following questions.1. Are you using the high grade gas required by the jag book. 2.Add a gas conditioner to the gas to clear out water, gum etc., such as Gumout (Wal Mart) etc. 3. Is the air filter reasonable clean or blow it out etc.
To get to the Throttle body(TB) etc., requires the removal of the black plastic moulded cover by simply removing 4 screws one 1/2 turn and removing the oil cap. The whole cover will lift up and off. Put the oil cap back to prevent anything getting inside the engine.By the way this group are experts and you can ask them anything believe me they have done it and are amazingly helpfull. good luck.

 

George C. Thanks VERY much for all of the info, I really appreciate it. I do have 2 more questions if you don't mind.

1. Do you think always putting the high ocatane fuel into my vehicle will help the problem per #1 of your response? I have to admit that when I started putting in 89 octane gas was when the problem started.

2. I have a headlight out. It's the 2nd headlight in the set meaning the 2 headlights that sit inside the main headlights. I called the dealer here in West Palm Beach and the parts guy quoted me $810 for the one head lamp. That may have included the assembly as well. Advice??

THANKS ANGAIN, MY FRIEND!!!

 

The higher octane absolutely helps. The highest octane could stop the problem. However there may be other reasons for the engine problem warning and they must be looked into also. However in many (most?) cases the higher octane gas is the solution. The timing is affected and the very sensitive computer reads that as a problem.
The light issue. I would start by changing the bulb. the bulb is accessed by the removal of the almost flat black cover that you see when you stand in front and look back (bonnet open). The black plastic is held in place by 6 black plastic scrivets (meaning a fastener that you unscrew and when unscrewed and loose, not free, you then pull the whole fastener up and out. When replacing keep the screw piece up and push the bottom piece into the whole, lock by pressing the top piece home.) When all the fasteners are out the black plastic flat piece will be loose. to remove it simply lift, sometimes the cap on the window washer fluid container catches it but you simply pull it around any catching point.
now you can see the back of the inner lamp. There is a round finned cover, use a mirror to see the turn direction, it is clearly marked on the cover, that when turned will release, when released sometimes it is still difficult to move. the cover rearward to remove it. When the round finned cover is removed, using a mirror you can see the bulb. the rest I think you can figure out.
There are many threads on this forum that cover various problems with lights.
Good luck,
George

 

Higher octane gas is not the solution. It is the problem.

Lower octane fuel causes detonation in this high compression engine. When the knock sensors detect this, the ECM retards the timing affecting performance and mileage. Putting anything less than premium in will save you a few cents up front but cost you in the end.

I think this scenario is due to impending TPS failure. Why folks buy these cars and put in lower octane fuel is a mystery to me.

 

One thing I will agree with Jag XJ8 Red on is the use of premium fuel. Unless its an emergency, put the 92-93 octane in the car.

As for the OPs failing headlights, do not discount the HID ballasts if you have the xenon system, and not the halogens. It is fairly easy to tell -- are your lights (sorry, the one light that is working) a dim yellow, or a bright white? If its bright white, you've got HIDs...plus there's a sticker somewhere that says DANGER high voltage near the ballast under the headlamp. The ballast can be replaced with a $250 unit, a new headlight is not needed, but the dealer doesn't sell them separate, so you get a new headlight with the ballast that you need.

Lots of threads on that ballast, just search this subforum for some good ones, and read up my friend!

Also, profanity is frowned upon, as you may have noticed, this forum does not have autocorrect enabled for your typing due to our good reputation for having clean language. We all get frustrated, but keep those keyboard taps in check.

 

I had the dreaded engine systems fault.
Throttle bottle cleaner and careful wiping cured it.

I'm going to do a second round to ensure no repeat.

Before cleaning tps was at 7 degrees at idle.
Last check it was below 3.
And I could tell the throttle was sticky before I cleaned it.
But you cant tell from the pedal, only by manually opening the butterfly.
Because its throttle by wire.

 

*** Please delete post, meant to start a new thread, sorry! ***


So on my home last week all the warning lights in my cluster lit up and all the gauges stopped working (speedo,TACH, fuel, and temp). In the mileage display the following messages would be displayed : DSC not available, ABS not available, parking brake malfunction, transmission malfunction, air suspension malfunction (the ride was stiff and rigid). I was, at the time in stop and go traffic and so I pulled over and turned the engine off, bad idea. The vehicle would not restart, vehicle had power but engine would not turn over. Turn the key and click...click. A fellow motorist pulled over and thinking it was a battery problem tried a jump start, same problem, click...click. So I called a tow truck and had the XJ brought over to a local Jaguar independent. He fan faults and looked the car over and given the battery was several years old he suggested the battery be replaced. I had also told him that last winter I had water collect in the passenger front foot well due to a clogged sunroof drain tube. So be removed the interior panels and went looking for corrosion, he said so signs of any water damage. After the battery was replaced he said all seemed to be normal. So I had him change my oil and filters since it was there and I picked the vehicle up.
I drove home, about 15 miles and no problem. Drove to work the next morning, another 20 miles and all was fine. On my lunch hour I had to run to the post office and on start up noticed the steering felt heavy and stiff, on my way back steering seemed normal. Then came time for the drive home and less than a half a mile into the drive all the lights came back as they did the first time and the gauges went dead. I kept driving and in about another mile most of the warning lights went out but I was left with a check engine warning and a yellow parking brake malfunction warning. As far as the engine itself it never felt as if anything was wrong, smooth running and strong acceleration. Below is the fault list the independent was able to provide.

U2522 CAN message timeout to trans module

U2523 CAN message timeout to engine module

U2521 missing message from ABS

B1602 Passive anti theft received invalid format of key from ignition transponder

U2511 CAN data mis match (received date not as expected)

B2884 Steering column tilt movement fault

B2879 Fuel tank jet pump fault

B2881 Steering column reach movement fault , secondary axis

B2139 Data mismatch (received date does not match expected data)

P1638 CAN link engine communication module/instrument cluster/network malfunction

P0860 Gear shift module communication circuit

P1260 Security input/theft detected vehicle immobilized/theft detected -engine disabled

P1582 Flight recorder data is stored /electronic throttle monitor data available

P1672 CAN link engine control module to air suspension module network malfunction

P1699 CAN link engine control module/RCC network malfunction/CAN link engine control module /climate control module

P1774 CAN timeout gear shift

P1798 CAN transmission control module/instrument cluster circuit malfunction

P0706 Transmission range sensor circuit range/performance

C1279 YAW rate sensor circuit fault

C1093 Traction control disabled switch circuit failure

B2139 Data mismatch (received data does not match expected data)

U2521 Missing message from the ABS

U2523 CAN message timeout from the engine control module

U2522 CAN message timeout from the transmission control module

U1027 SCP (J1850) invalid or missing data for engine RPM

U1040 SCP (J1850) invalid or missing data for vehicle speed

So needless to say I'm a happy camper I will add that the faults relative to the steering could be from some damage done by the tow vehicle as the tool bag drug my vehicle up the ramp of the flatbed. I say this because the steering wheel is about 10-15 degree's off center.

Anyway any help or suggestions, aside from tossing a grenade in the front seat, will be greatly appreciated!

 

I am new to the forum...I read the posts.

I know this is sacrilegious to a Jag owner BUT here goes.

I am installing a XJR 4.2 in my 1973 240z and noticed a small amount of corrosion on the ECM and opened it up and WOW full of white powered corrosion on the connections and did a search on corrosion and found that Jag has recalls on brake lines, Connectors etc.

Are these built in England? Or exposed to sea water in shipping or they can't seal everything???

I know electronics, mechanics and computers and was a drivability Tech for GM and if everything is designed correctly...it'd shouldn't be this complicated even with todays sophisticated CAN systems, Fly by wire etc.

I have been reading alot on Direct Injection and BMW tech's really are not really sure what they are doing with troubleshooting...They just throw parts at the problem! maybe that's what Jaguar is doing?

 

I just looked at a schematic for a 2005 XJR and it could be related to bad grounds...See below:

TP sensor
Pin #1 is a common sensor ground
Pin #4 is Power
Pin #2 is TP Sensor 2 signal
Pin #3 is TP Sensor 1 signal

Pin #1 Blk/Green "sensor ground" connects to the MAF, TP Sensor, IAT, IAT #2, EFT, APP sensor, FTP, AC Pressure, MAP, IP, EOT, ECT, etc. And it's also used as a shields for the camshaft sensors signal, Knock sensors, TP sensor (signals) etc.

Just something to think about.

 

I've had quite a lot apart and never seen that so you've got a bad one. I'd just get another as they're quite easy to come by but it may clean. I think you mean powdered not powered. Bad grounds are rare now.

 

Check your throttle body sensor connector........this little bugger will trigger all these lights at once...

 

just check the small sensor.....that plugs horizontally into the throttle...at times the connection will losen or ever crack causing this issue...good luck...

 

Yes they are more rare...I was just doing some research before I boughr a ECM and came across this post...GM Had reallly bad problems with using small gauge wires and had bad connections in the late 90's, and I have worked on a 80's Jaguar with lots of problems always breaking down.

 

Thanks, I used a toothbrush, and some CLR or SLR (Can't remember) to get rid of the corrosion, and ordered another ECU/ECM and a coupler for the supercharger...When they come in I will see if she frys or flies LOL.

 

Forget 80s Jags. Not like those at all any more.

 

Clean MAS sensor, autozone sells it for $5, replace air filter every 3 months (buy the cheap air filter, they work better for some reason), and make sure the key fob is not attached to something heavy. Good luck.

 

Ouch - what an old thread to resurrect!

Really, it's not needed.

 

Why not? It's his/her first post, and it appears that person is just trying to be helpful ... nothing wrong with that. There may still be a few Jags on the road experiencing that problem, and this seems to be a newer solution.

Just my 2 cents.

Jag-Guy