Fails Smog (OBD not communicating)
#41
Cerritos Jag had the car for three days and just told me it is fixed. Service advisor said "hard reset" and "reflash computer", "thought would have to replace ECU but all except 3 readiness monitors set and the remaining just need to drive more".
Three days for that? Previously a Jag repair facility didn't provide me all the information about an intermittent fails to start problem and I had to figure out and repair it myself, I have the feeling they know more about this problem than they are telling me.
After I drive it home tomorrow will try to get it smog checked next week to see if it is really communicating with smog machines.
Had a Land Rover rental vehicle, so many things wrong with that design (start-stop whinny engine, protrusion on driver's floor, rotary shifter, climate and radio controls, short sunvisor, etc).
Three days for that? Previously a Jag repair facility didn't provide me all the information about an intermittent fails to start problem and I had to figure out and repair it myself, I have the feeling they know more about this problem than they are telling me.
After I drive it home tomorrow will try to get it smog checked next week to see if it is really communicating with smog machines.
Had a Land Rover rental vehicle, so many things wrong with that design (start-stop whinny engine, protrusion on driver's floor, rotary shifter, climate and radio controls, short sunvisor, etc).
Last edited by XJPurr; 12-15-2016 at 05:46 PM.
#43
Went back to the first smog station. His machine now reads the readiness monitors, but oxygen monitor not set even though car has been driven daily for two weeks including 10 times on freeway! He says drive 50mph for 30 minutes.
I found an online source that says idle engine for 3 minutes, next drive 3000-4000 rpms lift foot off accelerator and coast to stop within 30 seconds and then idle for 4 seconds after coming to stop then repeat, finally drive between 30-60mph for 10 minutes then drive above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at steady speed then lift foot off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.
Just noticed electric cooling fans running after engine turned off. Car is at 90,000 miles and since I got the it around 40,000 miles thermostat has been replaced twice, thermo housing and water pump and belt replaced once, and other repairs made to thermo housing seals and tube on a cooling tank. All work done at Jag dealer.
Engine is going to seize from overheating whilst I crash trying to coast through traffic without touching the brakes.
I found an online source that says idle engine for 3 minutes, next drive 3000-4000 rpms lift foot off accelerator and coast to stop within 30 seconds and then idle for 4 seconds after coming to stop then repeat, finally drive between 30-60mph for 10 minutes then drive above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at steady speed then lift foot off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.
Just noticed electric cooling fans running after engine turned off. Car is at 90,000 miles and since I got the it around 40,000 miles thermostat has been replaced twice, thermo housing and water pump and belt replaced once, and other repairs made to thermo housing seals and tube on a cooling tank. All work done at Jag dealer.
Engine is going to seize from overheating whilst I crash trying to coast through traffic without touching the brakes.
Last edited by XJPurr; 12-30-2016 at 04:02 PM.
#45
#46
Purchased a code reader with live readout for $141. I read reviews of the recommended $5 ELM units and they said need to purchase additional software for phone or laptop, some of that software contains viruses, and want a simple and reliable cable connection.
Took about six minutes to hook up because connector doesn't just snap on, rocks back and forth and have to rock into position for data connection to be made.
All monitors set except heated catalyst and refrig reads n/a, and oxygen reads inc. We've done multiple dangerous freeway drives at 50mph and 3000+ rpms with the recommended 30 second coastdowns to zero mph.
It's a cool rainy morning and coolant temp varies and reads up to 194 degrees.
Accident on freeway late to work by 4 minutes, would have been on time except for having to mess with the reader hookup.
Jaguar nightmare continues.
Took about six minutes to hook up because connector doesn't just snap on, rocks back and forth and have to rock into position for data connection to be made.
All monitors set except heated catalyst and refrig reads n/a, and oxygen reads inc. We've done multiple dangerous freeway drives at 50mph and 3000+ rpms with the recommended 30 second coastdowns to zero mph.
It's a cool rainy morning and coolant temp varies and reads up to 194 degrees.
Accident on freeway late to work by 4 minutes, would have been on time except for having to mess with the reader hookup.
Jaguar nightmare continues.
Last edited by XJPurr; 01-05-2017 at 09:34 AM.
#49
The Jag dealer has had the car twice, it's been to 3 California smog test centers, a California state smog referee station, and to Pep Boys, and none of these experienced mechanics mentioned a problem with the connector.
The code reader to OBD port connector seems loose fitting to me, but I am not experienced with these types of systems. The delay in getting the reader connected may have been due to my lack of experience and/or it takes the reader time to sync with the car.
To recap; the car's smog readiness monitors were not being communicated and the Jag dealer did a "hard reset" and "reflash" of a computer, and now the readiness monitors are communicating and only the oxygen monitor is not set after 350 miles and 25 warmup cycles and cruising and coasting on the freeway at 3000+ rpm. The Jag service advisor says it can take 1000-3000 miles to set all monitors and they haven't found a way around that.
A second problem seems to be coming up. When turning the engine off the other day the electric cooling fans were running, and the code reader shows coolant temp going up to 199 and maybe it was 200+ while driving normally on a cool day. Have a reservation to go back to the Jag dealer on Monday to look at that, thermostat and housing and waterpump etc. were changed less than a year ago.
#50
That's another clue.
Your car has one or more faults. At least one of them is stopping the monitor from completing. Several of those people you list know none of this and/or it is not their job anyway.
Some dealers have no good techs or fail to assign one. I suggest you find a good indy or at least a tech who understands these are (as all modern cars are) computer-controlled cars, not cars that happen to have some computers in them. (Essentially, forced to be so by consumer buying habits and laws.)
Your car has one or more faults. At least one of them is stopping the monitor from completing. Several of those people you list know none of this and/or it is not their job anyway.
Some dealers have no good techs or fail to assign one. I suggest you find a good indy or at least a tech who understands these are (as all modern cars are) computer-controlled cars, not cars that happen to have some computers in them. (Essentially, forced to be so by consumer buying habits and laws.)
#51
#52
I guess it is time to forget bringing a 12 year old car to a dealer.
From the items listed, only the thermostat can, and looks to me it is, the reason of your overheating.
Your symptoms are exact the exact ones you get when a thermostat gets stuck closed in cool weather.
Have the old thermostat checked in boiling water , just to be sure.
Easy change, and a zero less than the amount you mention.
From the items listed, only the thermostat can, and looks to me it is, the reason of your overheating.
Your symptoms are exact the exact ones you get when a thermostat gets stuck closed in cool weather.
Have the old thermostat checked in boiling water , just to be sure.
Easy change, and a zero less than the amount you mention.
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XJPurr (01-10-2017)
#56
I guess it is time to forget bringing a 12 year old car to a dealer.
From the items listed, only the thermostat can, and looks to me it is, the reason of your overheating.
Your symptoms are exact the exact ones you get when a thermostat gets stuck closed in cool weather.
Have the old thermostat checked in boiling water , just to be sure.
Easy change, and a zero less than the amount you mention.
From the items listed, only the thermostat can, and looks to me it is, the reason of your overheating.
Your symptoms are exact the exact ones you get when a thermostat gets stuck closed in cool weather.
Have the old thermostat checked in boiling water , just to be sure.
Easy change, and a zero less than the amount you mention.
By chance I was connected to service advisor who did the job a year ago and he remembered even small details of the job. I am very impressed by the workmanship and service advisors at Jag dealers, in the same magnitude I am disappointed with the reliability and ease of repair for product Ford/Jaguar produced to begin with.
Hope to own a home with a large workshop by next year and will do as much maintenance as possible. I previously changed spark plugs, battery, and HID headlamps.
Saw a YouTube video of thermo change in a 2003 supercharged XJ, took five minutes. Read about changing thermo in 2004 up XJs and said to remove windshield wipers, intake manifold, etc. WTF Ford/Jaguar?
When all this done will put on miles and hopefully get final oxygen monitor set, to hopefully complete smog check before registration extension expires.
#57
Thermostats are not rocket science.
#58
#59
Hi XJPurr- Have you cleared your smog test? I have a similar problem with my '04 VDP. Had a P0174 code that was repaired/cleared with a new motor mount. After erasing all codes and driving about 200 miles, all readiness codes were OK'd EXCEPT the comp com readiness. I have driven about another 1200 miles and still not cleared. The Jaguar drive cycle says, "To avoid unnecessary complexity, a single comprehensive engine management drive cycle has not been developed for XJ range. Refer to the individual DTC for specific drive cycle/monitoring conditions". WTH. I don't have any DTC's (now).
Anybody have any suggestions?
The car has about 125,000 mi. on it, and has always passed smog easily. Every (2) smog station says "drive it". What criteria will clear the final "code"?
Thanks
Anybody have any suggestions?
The car has about 125,000 mi. on it, and has always passed smog easily. Every (2) smog station says "drive it". What criteria will clear the final "code"?
Thanks
#60
Hi XJPurr- Have you cleared your smog test? I have a similar problem with my '04 VDP. Had a P0174 code that was repaired/cleared with a new motor mount. After erasing all codes and driving about 200 miles, all readiness codes were OK'd EXCEPT the comp com readiness. I have driven about another 1200 miles and still not cleared. The Jaguar drive cycle says, "To avoid unnecessary complexity, a single comprehensive engine management drive cycle has not been developed for XJ range. Refer to the individual DTC for specific drive cycle/monitoring conditions". WTH. I don't have any DTC's (now).
Anybody have any suggestions?
The car has about 125,000 mi. on it, and has always passed smog easily. Every (2) smog station says "drive it". What criteria will clear the final "code"?
Thanks
Anybody have any suggestions?
The car has about 125,000 mi. on it, and has always passed smog easily. Every (2) smog station says "drive it". What criteria will clear the final "code"?
Thanks
Now only current issue is possible overheating and will take that to another thread.
GJJ, I don't know what "Comp Component" is and mine set pretty quickly, and if you part out your car I'll take your seats because I need the picnic trays.