Had this upper hose replaced with genuine part (C2C62769 I believe) just before Christmas last, so it is barely 18 months old.
Looks like a casting failure near where one of the mold injection points is located.

No warranty beyond 12 months from the mechanic, so I will be looking to do something else to repair/replace this before it deteriorates too much.

Firstly I am going to try some Acrylate with a binder such as baking soda or ash to restore the integrity around the pin hole. That might be the end of the annoying seepage.

Failing that I am exploring getting a Aluminium Tee assembly made to replace this crappy plastic section.
I was contemplating stainless but didn't want to introduce possible electrolysis problems with the dissimilar metal.
However, I do have a question for the collective grey matter here......the main pipe is approximately 44mm, but the minor Tee branch is hard to get a measurement on due to it being still installed and nigh on impossible to get some verniers onto the branch.
The space between the visible 44mm pipe stops is 21mm, so the down facing spigot can't be any larger than that.
The branch's rubber hose has an OD that measures about 27mm to 28mm, so I can probably deduce the branch hose spigot would be somewhere about 19mm-21mm.

Has anyone happened to note that measurement in the past, or perhaps has a recently replaced hose assembly on hand that they can take a quick confirmation measurement?

Thanks in advance.

 

It will be a bit, but I may actually still have the old one from my hoses overhaul last summer. I'm at work, it will be a few hours before I can look for it. (The pic is from one I took during that work.)

Even so, I'm not sure I can measure the piece without cutting the strap and removing that hose, which I don't want to do; that hose goes all the way up against the main pipe. After all, the reason for saving it is as a last-resort replacement should the new one fail unexpectedly. I.D. of the other end looks smaller to my eye, too, so probably not a valid measurement.

 

Bummer!

Don't know if my R has the same hose, but if so, I will be receiving my replacement hoses tomorrow & working to replace over the weekend. If you don't already have an answer, I will measure and send.

Good luck,

Steve S.

 

Hi Wfooshee and 04Xjsteve,

Thanks for the replies.
This is my daily driver, so taking the hose assembly off to get the measurement to then get something altered or made and refitted would see the car off the road for a week or more, which is why I am doing as much research and prep as possible.

I hope the quick answer might be to have a quick look side-on to the pipe assembly to see if the spigot circumference fully occupies the gap between the two cast shoulders on the main pipe. If so, then the OD of the spigot will be 21mm.

However, if there is visually a minor gap each side between the spigot shaft and those cast shoulders then we are looking at a lesser diameter which (while the pipe is still attached to the spigot) possibly can only be measured by using some known length small packers (small hex nuts using the opposing flats perhaps) that can reach the uncovered portion of the spigot and deducting them from the overall vernier measurement.

 

Hi Mark,

In Wfooshee's photo, by the spigot, I assume you mean the smaller, spigot-looking part?

 

Unless I overlooked it, there doesn't appear to be the same hose the pile that I have extracted from my R; so, I won't be any help.

Best,

Steve

 

Hi Steve,

Thanks for looking.
Just for clarity, in the photo wfooshee first posted he did appear to have the same hose assembly with the down facing minor hose Tee.
That is the little bugger I am trying to size.

 

Hi Mark
I have recently done some work in the same area and I
cut off the steel bands on a spare "T" hose and made another "T"
with worm drive clips and hoses.
I can tell you that the plastic "T" is realley quite thick, maybe 2 or 3 MM
I would be tempted to drill out a small hole and insert a stainless plug which
will cut it's own thread then remove and replace with PTFE tape to seal the threads
A tapered plug would be ideal.
I would try it first on a bit of similar plastic pipe.
Don't worry about stainless steel I had a barbed stainless connector on the head tank for years

 

How about a few minutes, and no need to even open the system?

Have we ALL forgotten about how "Pi" works?

Pull a wire around the diameter adjacent each hose-end.
Mark the overlap.
Lay it out in a straight line & measure.

Do the math.

As to galvanic effects, Aluminium vs "other"? Problem is greatest with adjacent MOVING parts (water pump shafting and impellers...) or other very close placement.

No big deal with several inches of elastomer between the Aluminium and Stainless or "other".


"PS:" Wfooshee's photo was clear as can be. The others all show but a blur with a rotating pattern in the center.

 

Thermite......great idea about wrapping a wire around to get circumference and I am not afraid of a bit of math either, but no practical access to do that while hose assembly remains fitted to the car and this spigot also has an end stop shoulder cast into it by the looks of it.
Hence trying to get a "eyeball" on the relationship of the plastic spigot's actual OD versus the known spacing between the casting shoulders of the 44mm main section.
I can't even get my phone camera to slide down in the available gap to get a clear focus picture.

Thanks for your insight on the dissimilar metals, I just didn't want to possibly introduce an issue into the water system that might cause other components or assemblies to react. (alloy heads, alloy radiator core etc.)

One detail I did just pick up on with wfooshee's photo when I took a third look was the open end of the minor pipe, as that give me a good idea on that pipe's wall thickness which looks to be about 4mm. That brings me back to thinking that the spigot OD being in the 19-20mm range.

 

I said "wire" because solid wire can be pre-curved whilst monofilament (fishing line leader) needs a bit of guidance, but even so... with chopsticks if not needlenose if not Kelly forceps, it just isn't that hard.

'Dental' mirror. Or Endoscope. The Teslong I use has both straight-ahead and 90-degree side view, selectable illumination level, can live-stream over USB C, record to SIM card, or both.

It MATTERS.. Just not as much as all that. Dad worked at NACA (pre NASA), 1931-1936, came away with liquid-cooled light-alloy aero-engine experts explaining to him why they ran straight Glycol, NO water....

So we've been doing the same, 1936 Dodge (and one 1941 Oldsmobile ... with automatic transmission) to present-day.

I only have water in a cooling system when trouble shooting. Or in Fords, JLR's.. and similarly leaky vehicles that can't HOLD Glycol long enough to not break the bank, pollute the neighbourhood, or some combination thereof.

"Wire" aside, at under an inch or so, I probably COULD measure it.. just didn't think until oh-dark :34 ayem that there are Old Skewl "bow-legged" spring caiipers and Flexbeam Indi-Cal's in the metrology drawers that can get into places that legacy vernier calipers or classical micrometers struggle to reach.

 

That side pipe is indeed the full width of the gap between the upper hoses.

 

Yah... welll....... the boss before the stop-shoulder is, anyway...

Not to worry.

A person is either going to JF buy a new one, in as-issued size(s)... or actually has a bit of a 'free hand' if planning to re-engineer the whole section.

Flow is nearly always constrained by OTHER features in pump, block, heads, thermostat, heater core, heater mixing valve, connectors, junctions, & elbows, etc.. AND NOT very often constrained by hose and fitting sizes in between.

IOW you can use same size, a bit larger... or even a skosh SMALLER, so long as flow is laid-out sanely.

JLR AJ series have such squirrelly coolant plumbing, you couldn't make it worse even with a New York City Court order.

 

A huge thanks for the follow up photo wfooshee, that appears to give me a spigot OD of 21mm.

Now I can sort out getting an off the shelf 45mm alloy blow off valve T-pipe as they are cheap as chips and just get it altered suit.

I'll get the default 25mm cut off and a 21-22mm beaded spigot Tigged in..... and that should be job done.
I don't have TIG welding experience or sufficient need to set up for that at this stage....I'll just find a local small outfit that will happily do a small 10 minute job.