Hi Steve,

Grease is fine as long as it's not a petroleum-based grease. Clear silicone grease, such as that sold as dielectric grease or disc brake grease, works well. Just wipe a light coat on the O-rings and it helps them slide into position without being dislodged or torn.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks, Don.

While it is unlikely, but because I'm working on my back, am more concerned about the seal becoming dislodged from the groove than anything else. Appreciate knowing what kind of grease to use!

Hope to get the OFH installed by the weekend & oil pan too. Will get new screws as you suggested some time back: Flange-head M6X1.0 pitch and 20mm long; Class 10.9.

 

For the oil filter housing gasket, I think I would install that dry. I was thinking of the O-ring on the pipe visible in your photo - those I apply a little dielectric grease to so they slip into place without dislodging or being torn, but the OFH gasket can probably go on dry. If the O-ring doesn't want to stay in place, apply a few dots of RTV silicone sealant at intervals around the O-ring groove to help hold the O-ring in place while getting the OFH into position.

 

Thanks, Don. Housing is on &, to this point, it was a piece of cake.

Now, I need to torque the three bolts holding it to the block; however, unless I'm reading something wrong, my 3/8" torque wrench only goes to 10 NM & my 3/4" to only 21 NM. The directions I found in the Worksop Manual say to tighten to 25 NM.

Seems like a lot of force. I didn't get a sense that they were on that tightly when I removed them. If a rubber O-Ring were not part of the equation, I would just tighten them by feel.

Does the 25 NM seem right?

 

Actually, I double-checked & it is 21 NM. Will give it a try & see if it feels right.

 

21 Nm = 15.48 ft. lbs.

25 Nm = 18.44 ft. lbs.

A difference of 3 ft. lbs. probably won't cause you to strip threads or snap the head off a screw, but with these aluminum engines it is definitely prudent to double and triple check the torque specs before you tighten your fasteners.

One thing to be aware of is that according to the Society of Automotive Engineers, torque wrenches of any type are considered excessively inaccurate in the lower 20% of their torque range, so a 0-75 ft. lb. wrench is only considered acceptably accurate (within 4%) between 15 ft. lbs. and 75 ft. lbs.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks, Don.

The leak is fixed! I'm reasonably sure the Housing was the culprit (Thanks, Terrific!). & since there was oil around the edges of the pan, I can't be sure it wasn't also leaking. What a great feeling to have accomplished this task!

When time permits, I want to explore the torque issue. I need to do some homework & then I may start a thread on the subject.

 

After Action:

Would I make these repairs again? Yes

Most helpful suggestions from site: Housing seal replacement; I had no knowledge of the OFH unit until Terrific brought to my attention. Renewal of pan bolts by Don B.

Biggest challenge: Defining what needed to be done & overcoming angst over being unfamiliar. Figuring a work around to search the workshop manual.

Concerns: The torque wrenches I have caused me to stop tightening before I got to the specified torques on all bolts & screws. Therefore, I tightened by feel & I am convinced had I continued to tighten, breakage would have occurred.

Other thoughts: Very satisfying to have stopped leak(s). However, I feel a need to study about torque. I appreciate the info from Don on the subject.

 

Steve; Actually torque to me, a lifetime mechanic, is no big deal in this instance The housing and block will be metal to metal once the o ring is squashed. Yes the O ring seal should be greased to hold it in place and allow the seal to move as it is being squashed. Good work. Tom.