Hi,
I know I want to have the transmission fluid replaced on my 2006 XJ8 w/ 51000mil.
My mechanic want to flush the transmission (6HP26) drop the filter+ pan afterward, replace the filter+pan+ electric conn. sleeve and fill the transmission per spec. Hereby replacing all the old fluid at ones.
He want to use Redline D4 ATF (which I fully can support)
Any opinions on this?
Does anyone know if the bolts for the pan are problematic for the year 2006? I know they were on earlier year but believe the bolts were upgraded at some point.
Thanks
MTW

 

No opinion on the Redline. I don't use Royal Purple or Redline products so I cannot comment. I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the 6HP26 and Castrol Multi-vehicle import ATF for the 5HP24 many times with literally no complaints or problems and have both fluids in my own X350 and XK8. I recommend Mobil 1 or the Castrol on the condition one understands the complete story regarding Lifeguard 5/6 fluids and Esso fluids, then the owner making his own informed decision.

The bolts are hit/miss whether they'll be a problem. It more depends on how long they've been there (time, not miles) and under which climatic conditions. The problem is contact with dissimilar metals. Steel screws into an aluminum casing. Humidity, or high humid environments seem to exacerbate the corrosion condition, while drier more arid operating conditions seem to prevent it. This is just personal observation working on cars in the SW USA.

ZF doesn't use an anti-seize on the screws in factory assembly, making the corrosion condition worse. I always use anit-seize on the new screws when I am reassembling. Also, I don't chance it and always replace all the screws when I am changing pans. I have a collection of old screws in various conditions, but do not use them for replacements, only an emergency.

 

Thanks Stevetech
Every tread on this forum talks about drain and refill. Do you think the flush can hurt the transmission? Do you know if it at all is possible to connect to the XJ's cooler lines to flush the transmission? - I wonder why no one else has done this (as far as I can read off course)
Thanks
MTW

 

The drain and refill is just easier for me, especially since I can get the filter changed too, and replace the connector sleeve. I've done so many now that it is just second nature.

I think flushing via cooler lines has been discussed before. There is flushing equipment out there, so I'm not sure if you mean that, or a DIY setup.

Best,

 

Stevetech,
It is the transmission flushing machine I refer to.
I will try to find the tread about flushing - Thanks
MTW

 

Could you guys, who have done this job at, expound on the temp. guages (devices) you have used in the final step?

I had wanted my local, so called Jag serv. dude, to do the job but he told me that the temp. measurment step was unnessary. So he's off my list on several levels.

The Alljag service in Orlando does it right but they don't want to use the Mobile 1 ATF. So it looks like I'm going to end up doing it myself, Therefore I need to buy a couple of jack stands and the temp measurment device. I allready have the ramps. Any chance the inferred remote temp readers available at my local auto supply will work?

 

Good news! Alljag service in Orlando called today. They said they will do the transmission flush with Mobile 1 synthetic ATF if I supply the fluid. Can't beat that because I didn't want to buy the jack stands, temp probe, etc.

Besides, it's a bitch to do in a hot Florida home garage for a guy who is getting a bit long of tooth for some of this stuff .

 

Tarhealcracker,
That is good news. Will they replace your filter before the flush or will they just flush the transmission and leave the filter alone?

I would also appreciate if someone how has tried this them self could tell a little about how to measure the fluid temp when the fluid level is set - my tech knows nothing about this trans, so I need to know:-) Do you just hold the temp probe against the pan to measure when you set the fluid level?
Thanks
MTW

 

Hey guys, I am from the S section and this has been an ongoing debate as far as which fluids to use. There are many threads about this issue there describing in detail the different shell specs.

As far as the temp questions here is a FAQ from the S section on total procedure for a ZF 6HP26

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=30991

 

Joycesjag, Thanks
In CCC's tread he is using a infer-red thermometer which makes a lot of sense (kind of expensive though).
My tech do only have a regular temp probe - I was wondering if it is possible to stick the probe in through the filler hole and measure the fluid temp like that?
Thanks
MTW

 

Hmmm I am not sure. I have not done this ZF procedure yet but I have to replace that cursid sleeve soon! I'd PM ccc and ask about that. He usually responds back within 24 hours.

 

MTW'
I'm going for in for just a fluid flush only. We will not remove the xmission pan and therefore not replace the filter or sleve.
To the rest of the respondents to this thread, thanks for the info, it was most helpfull.
KBO mates.

 

Thanks everyone.
Does anyone know how prone to leaking the sleeve is in the later XJ's? My Jag tech tells me he has not seen any sleeve leak after model year 2006. How does the sleeve fail when it leaks - does the rubber become soft and then it starts leaking?
Thanks
MTW

 

any fast reading thermometer can be used to measure the temp. plug the transmission and let the motor run , every few minutes unscrew (with motor running) the fill bolt, collect some oil and measure its temp. easy

 

I just got back from All Jaguar Inc. in Orlando FL. They flushed my 05 XJR transmission for $123 with Mobile 1 ATF supplied by me. They did the temp measurment with an OBD tool and lap top. (don't know why we haven't heard about that trick before) With the $104 I paid for the 12 qts of fluid and the $123 in labor, the entire job came to $207.

All Jags! Goog guys, They let me watch from a distance and talked me thur the entire process.

As far as any difference in shift quality there is some. Mind you I had no problem to start with-this was strictly a PM procedure. I perceive that the 1st to 2nd shift is a tad later so the ,so called, Jag learch is lessened. The trans in general seems better hooked up and more positive, if that makes any sense. I have no clue if this is due to switching over to Mobile 1 ATF or just the benifits of fresh ATF fluid in general.

Overall I'm glad I did it and think it was money well spent.

 

Tarheal, out of curiosity why did you not have the pan/filter replaced as well?

Scott Jaguar here in Charlotte quoted me just under $1000.00 ($500.00 parts, $498.00 labor) to replace sleeve, pan/filter and 6 qts of their liquid gold ZF fluid. I had asked if I purchased all the above from ZF saving a couple hundred dollars if they would do the service, their response in short, NO.

So I would say you had gotten a great deal!

 

sorry guys to intrude on the XJ section, there is a picture of the Jag sleeve (left) and ZF replacement (right), in member's ccc mentioned in the attachment earlier stated the Jag sleeve pulled out easily and the ZF had to be lightly pounded in.

 

I charge $580 to change fluid, pan/filter and sleeve, with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. If the customer wants to buy their own lifeguard 6, no problem, just subtract the $8/9 per qt for the Mobil, x 8 qts. I haven't used it in awhile, but the lifeguard 6 is in the $25/$30 per quart range, I THINK. Don't hold me to this, because all my customers opt to go with the Mobil 1.

On the question about the sleeve - both sleeve and pan can leak and is PROBABLE (not guaranteed) around the 60K to 70K miles range. Both of these parts are plastic and the constant heat cycles eventually distort and fatigue them. I just replaced a leaking pan on an 04 XJ8 with 77K miles three weeks ago.

The sleeve needs to be "unlocked" and can only be done with the pan off. The part is $14 (my price). To me, and advice to my customers, if we're going to replace fluid, pan/filter, it just doesn't make sense not to do the sleeve at the same time.

If I did a fluid pan replacement w/o the sleeve, and the sleeve started leaking 10K miles later, I would not do the sleeve w/o replacing the pan, new again, as I do not trust the seal to be removed/resealed.

I'm going to edit in - correct torque of the 21 pan bolts is CRITICAL to proper sealing. Too much torque on the bolts or uneven torque will distort the palstic and, you guessed it...a leaking brand new pan! Once the pan seats, crank down the bolts 1/4 to 1/2 turn each in a constant circular pattern, eventually switching to a torque wrench for the last couple of complete circles.

 

Rick,
My car has 51,000 pampered miles. Given that Jag says "never to service the transmission" and common sense says "at least do something" I opted for the middle ground. Hence the transmission flush and switch to Mobile 1 ATF.
Perhaps a little later on in the cars life, say 70 to 80 thousand miles, I will do the complete service.
At the price you have been quoted in Charlotte, you can afford to drive down to Qrlando, get the work done at All Jags and spend the weekend at Daytona Beach

 

I have 77K on my 04 and no leaks so far. I did a fluid flush at about 74K. It costed my 1 hr of labor, 5 liters of Pentosin ATF1 and I added the ZF modifier. $75+$55+$60=$190. I like the Pentosin fluid, it's the same color and full synthetic.