Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
#21
11-08-2018, 05:23 AM
Thank you to you Datsports and to Cambo for all your patient help.
It looks like I have walked myself down a long cul-de-sac. At the end of it I am still unable to explain why I have 5v at both my supply and signal when all is connected and ignition is on, or why I have less than 10,000 ohms Signal to Ground when disconnected, nor why no (disconnected) continuity exists ECU supply to Connector supply?
I might as well spend the next week walking back out of that cul-de-sac, putting everything back together and buttoning up my harness and just hope that you guys have been right all along and the arrival of my FoMoCo Sensor solves everything!
Thanks again you stalwarts - I will post the results!
It looks like I have walked myself down a long cul-de-sac. At the end of it I am still unable to explain why I have 5v at both my supply and signal when all is connected and ignition is on, or why I have less than 10,000 ohms Signal to Ground when disconnected, nor why no (disconnected) continuity exists ECU supply to Connector supply?
I might as well spend the next week walking back out of that cul-de-sac, putting everything back together and buttoning up my harness and just hope that you guys have been right all along and the arrival of my FoMoCo Sensor solves everything!
Thanks again you stalwarts - I will post the results!
#22
11-11-2018, 03:47 AM
Veteran Member
I thought that asking how to access the back of my harness was a different subject to an engine running rich or a faulty FRP Sensor and therefore would be better in a new post?
See, if i replied to you this in your new thread , some one looking for similar help in the future will lose the trail for any comparative info .
so i had a spare moment ,and took the liberty to test mine , FPR unplugged , key on
supply 5v bang on and signal wire had 4.97v . mine goes great.
#23
11-11-2018, 04:24 AM
See, if i replied to you this in your new thread , some one looking for similar help in the future will lose the trail for any comparative info .
so i had a spare moment ,and took the liberty to test mine , FPR unplugged , key on
supply 5v bang on and signal wire had 4.97v . mine goes great.
so i had a spare moment ,and took the liberty to test mine , FPR unplugged , key on
supply 5v bang on and signal wire had 4.97v . mine goes great.
We can now conclude that this particular Workshop Manual Pinpoint Test is wrong!
However, I disagree with your first comment; someone following my original post (Running Rich) would have been redirected to my FRP Sensor post by way of my comment and link to that second post. Someone then following my second post (FRP Sensor) would NOT now be deprived of the excellent information you have given above! Again, (I think) your reply WAS best made to the post to which it refers - FRP Sensor.
In my opinion (for what it is worth) Wiring Harness Removal is an entirely different subject and is best kept to a different post to avoid muddying the FRP Sensor post's waters.
Nevertheless, I am extremely grateful to you and I am sure that we can agree to disagree on this minor point?
Last edited by EsRay; 11-11-2018 at 06:44 AM.
#24
11-17-2018, 03:55 AM
UPDATE:
Okay, so Cambo, Meirion1 and Datsports were absolutely correct all along the way!
I plugged in my recently arrived FoMoCo FRP Sensor, turned the ignition and off she went, purring nicely!!
Well, actually it was not quite as easy as that; I also had to put my Cabin Filter and its box back in, my wipers, reconnect all my sensors etc, etc.
I suppose the plus side is that I now have pristine renewed split plastic tubing and heat resistant tape on my entire engine harness...….
Anyway, I want to thank Cambo, Meirion1 and Datsports not only for their knowledge and generosity, but also for their patience and persistence!!!!
Okay, so Cambo, Meirion1 and Datsports were absolutely correct all along the way!
I plugged in my recently arrived FoMoCo FRP Sensor, turned the ignition and off she went, purring nicely!!
Well, actually it was not quite as easy as that; I also had to put my Cabin Filter and its box back in, my wipers, reconnect all my sensors etc, etc.
I suppose the plus side is that I now have pristine renewed split plastic tubing and heat resistant tape on my entire engine harness...….
Anyway, I want to thank Cambo, Meirion1 and Datsports not only for their knowledge and generosity, but also for their patience and persistence!!!!
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Datsports (11-17-2018)
#25
11-17-2018, 02:26 PM
Veteran Member
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EsRay (11-17-2018)
#26
07-07-2022, 05:35 PM
More fuel sensor
Hello Meiron1. Thanks for you reply - I was starting to feel a little bit lonely!
No, the original (Ford) sensor is completely U/S. When the nipple broke off it came away with a chunk of the 'box' containing the sensor. It was all very brittle. I superglued it back and then sealed the join with epoxy, but the internal diaphragm had also been damaged.....I could blow straight through the sensor; obviously that is no use - Would release any pressure (and fuel) in the fuel rail directly into the inlet elbow via the vacuum hose!
I am just going to have to wait to see if any of our 'Electro-Technos' will row to my rescue!!
Please see attached wiring diagram: If there is continuity between the Ground pin on my sensor connector and pin 019 at my ECU, does this mean that my sensor Ground is good? UPDATE: I have continuity between sensor pin 3 (connector) and pin 073 (ECU). I cannot find any continuity between 5V supply pin 1 (connector) and pin 012 (ECU) or between Ground? pin 2 (connector) and pin 019 (ECU). This is even more puzzling because when the ECU was connected I definitely had 5V at connector pin 1 (correct voltage) and 5V at pin 3 (too high, should not be more than 3V)?
I am stumped, please help!
No, the original (Ford) sensor is completely U/S. When the nipple broke off it came away with a chunk of the 'box' containing the sensor. It was all very brittle. I superglued it back and then sealed the join with epoxy, but the internal diaphragm had also been damaged.....I could blow straight through the sensor; obviously that is no use - Would release any pressure (and fuel) in the fuel rail directly into the inlet elbow via the vacuum hose!
I am just going to have to wait to see if any of our 'Electro-Technos' will row to my rescue!!
Please see attached wiring diagram: If there is continuity between the Ground pin on my sensor connector and pin 019 at my ECU, does this mean that my sensor Ground is good? UPDATE: I have continuity between sensor pin 3 (connector) and pin 073 (ECU). I cannot find any continuity between 5V supply pin 1 (connector) and pin 012 (ECU) or between Ground? pin 2 (connector) and pin 019 (ECU). This is even more puzzling because when the ECU was connected I definitely had 5V at connector pin 1 (correct voltage) and 5V at pin 3 (too high, should not be more than 3V)?
I am stumped, please help!
#28
07-09-2022, 08:49 AM
Junior Member
normal fuel pressure at idle
If you have zero fuel pressure reading and have a bad sensor, you are likely getting codes P0191 (IP sensor out of range) or P0192 (IP sensor low) error codes.
If you are not getting fuel pressure codes, and the car is running normally, then your reader might be misreporting to you.
If you are not getting fuel pressure codes, and the car is running normally, then your reader might be misreporting to you.
#29
07-09-2022, 08:49 AM
Junior Member
normal fuel pressure at idle
If you have zero fuel pressure reading and have a bad sensor, you are likely getting codes P0191 (IP sensor out of range) or P0192 (IP sensor low) error codes.
If you are not getting fuel pressure codes, and the car is running normally, then your reader might be misreporting to you.
If you are not getting fuel pressure codes, and the car is running normally, then your reader might be misreporting to you.
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