Getting ready for smog test
#1
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Good afternoon to all. Following the replacement of my battery I have been attempting to reset my 2004 (base model with approx. 88,000 mi.) OBDII monitors for several weeks now. I need to pass my smog test in June and have only so many weekends left. Since so many drive cycles require a cold soak I can really only do them on weekends. I have put on close to 200 miles ˝ of a tank of gas at a time. I’m keeping the tank above 1/4 full and below 3/4 full at all times. While California will allow you to pass the smog test with 1 monitor test incomplete, it cannot be the Comp. Component Monitor.
Right now all I have left is the Comp Component monitor. The drive cycles I used in setting the Misfire, Fuel System, Catalyst, Evap System, and O2 monitors are from the 2004 DTC Handbook and various TSBs I found online (I did follow the bulletin “Jaguar_32-Bit_ECM_Readiness_Setting_TSB_021210.pdf (33.7 KB)” dated 2010, that was provided by JagV8, 3 times. I am not sure about the information dated 2010 since it addresses the .020 & .040 EVAP leak tests that is also addressed in the Evaporative System Monitor drive cycle and my Evap monitor is set. I have no DTCs at this time and am at a loss as to what could be taking so long to set this monitor. (Since I have reset the Evap System monitor is it possible the remaining incomplete monitor is the one for the Comprehensive Component Monitor Transmission systems?) I am using my old Actron cp9575 scanner and don’t know if it could tell the difference between the engine CCM and the transmission CCM. I have no codes nor do I have any warnings on the dash.
While there are no specific CCM drive cycles for the 2004 models I have done the CCM drive cycle for the transmission that is outlined in many of the posts related to clearing the P1000 pending code. That is to say I followed the steps outlined for a 5 speed transmission and added steps for 5th gear and the 6th speed (i.e. overdrive). Still no joy. A smog tech I saw suggested I seek someone in the area who is familiar with Jaguars or take it to the dealer. I am not really the “dealer” type so I hope I can get some advice here.
Right now all I have left is the Comp Component monitor. The drive cycles I used in setting the Misfire, Fuel System, Catalyst, Evap System, and O2 monitors are from the 2004 DTC Handbook and various TSBs I found online (I did follow the bulletin “Jaguar_32-Bit_ECM_Readiness_Setting_TSB_021210.pdf (33.7 KB)” dated 2010, that was provided by JagV8, 3 times. I am not sure about the information dated 2010 since it addresses the .020 & .040 EVAP leak tests that is also addressed in the Evaporative System Monitor drive cycle and my Evap monitor is set. I have no DTCs at this time and am at a loss as to what could be taking so long to set this monitor. (Since I have reset the Evap System monitor is it possible the remaining incomplete monitor is the one for the Comprehensive Component Monitor Transmission systems?) I am using my old Actron cp9575 scanner and don’t know if it could tell the difference between the engine CCM and the transmission CCM. I have no codes nor do I have any warnings on the dash.
While there are no specific CCM drive cycles for the 2004 models I have done the CCM drive cycle for the transmission that is outlined in many of the posts related to clearing the P1000 pending code. That is to say I followed the steps outlined for a 5 speed transmission and added steps for 5th gear and the 6th speed (i.e. overdrive). Still no joy. A smog tech I saw suggested I seek someone in the area who is familiar with Jaguars or take it to the dealer. I am not really the “dealer” type so I hope I can get some advice here.
#2
#3
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That is what I figured as I have not seen any P7** codes. I have been looking at the drive cycles related to those codes in an effort to reset the remaining CCM. Although I do not have any codes the chance that a pending issue could be stopping me from resetting my last monitor is nagging at me.
One thing is always a problem. Coasting to a stop. Unless I am going up a hill my Jag will never coast to a stop. It will idle along at a slow pace but never "stop". I do not see how the dealer resets these monitors after doing any work as most repair instructions start with "disconnect the battery" then proceed from there. I am already preparing leads and clips so that a motorcycle battery can serve as a backup power source if I need to replace this battery. However sometimes there must be no power to any circuit when making a repair. I just hope those repairs will wait until after I pass by biannual smog tests.
One thing is always a problem. Coasting to a stop. Unless I am going up a hill my Jag will never coast to a stop. It will idle along at a slow pace but never "stop". I do not see how the dealer resets these monitors after doing any work as most repair instructions start with "disconnect the battery" then proceed from there. I am already preparing leads and clips so that a motorcycle battery can serve as a backup power source if I need to replace this battery. However sometimes there must be no power to any circuit when making a repair. I just hope those repairs will wait until after I pass by biannual smog tests.
#4
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The coast downs don't actually need a complete stop.
They're to let the PCM see the minute behaviour of the engine (crankshaft etc) so it can in due course detect misfires. (*)
In general you don't have to follow any drive cycle as the PCM will figure it all out during driving (if varied) - but it takes longer and it would be possible EVAP could be a problem e.g. if an owner always kept the tank very full or very empty.
Usually the monitors all set very quickly and when that doesn't happen that means something's not right.
It's not going to cheer you up (sorry) but when I changed my car's battery I did nothing special and the monitors set so fast I never had to worry. That's how it's meant to be. (As it happens I would only want them set because it lets me know the car's OK - we still suffer tailpipe emissions tests not OBD monitor tests here.)
(*) wellll I'm simplifying a bit... the PCM tries to figure out what air/fuel went in, when it fired the coils, what the CKP & CMP said, what the O2 sensors showed (and it knows the time lag from the air/fuel going in until it should reach the O2s) and so on
They're to let the PCM see the minute behaviour of the engine (crankshaft etc) so it can in due course detect misfires. (*)
In general you don't have to follow any drive cycle as the PCM will figure it all out during driving (if varied) - but it takes longer and it would be possible EVAP could be a problem e.g. if an owner always kept the tank very full or very empty.
Usually the monitors all set very quickly and when that doesn't happen that means something's not right.
It's not going to cheer you up (sorry) but when I changed my car's battery I did nothing special and the monitors set so fast I never had to worry. That's how it's meant to be. (As it happens I would only want them set because it lets me know the car's OK - we still suffer tailpipe emissions tests not OBD monitor tests here.)
(*) wellll I'm simplifying a bit... the PCM tries to figure out what air/fuel went in, when it fired the coils, what the CKP & CMP said, what the O2 sensors showed (and it knows the time lag from the air/fuel going in until it should reach the O2s) and so on
Last edited by JagV8; 05-20-2018 at 02:18 PM.
#5
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All of the monitors except the Evap did set quickly and the Evap. actually reset after only a few drives once the fuel went to around ˝ a tank. I know that if there is a problem pending it may not set but I do not know what it could be. I have done a complete service, oil, fuel filter, spark plugs and even replaced a couple of coils on cylinders that showed up with pending misfire codes just in case the new spark plugs did not fix the misfires. Maybe I will go ahead and replace them all. Although it runs really great. She is defiantly a “leaper” of the line at a stop sign. Spins the tires with ease and puts a smile on my face when I’m feeling down after all the speed up and slow down of drive cycles. I guess I will just keep adding gas and driving. Maybe a few more miles will do. I have been driving with the AC off because that was suggested by the smog tech but is that necessary?
I’m sorting out P0171 and P0174 (lean) codes on my sons 2001 Taurus right now also. (Yea more drive cycles to set more monitors. SSDD! Some years I hate June. The only vehicles I need to smog are both due in June. Lots of fun jumping back and forth between vehicles. At least I don’t think I need to order parts for the Jag.
I’m sorting out P0171 and P0174 (lean) codes on my sons 2001 Taurus right now also. (Yea more drive cycles to set more monitors. SSDD! Some years I hate June. The only vehicles I need to smog are both due in June. Lots of fun jumping back and forth between vehicles. At least I don’t think I need to order parts for the Jag.
#6
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Terry007
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