Going to try a chemical flush on the heater core...
#21
01-25-2014, 03:15 PM
#22
01-25-2014, 04:35 PM
#23
01-25-2014, 08:27 PM
Veteran Member
I hope all this works out for you. I have the exact same problem with no heat on driver's side. If you are able to take some pictures, that would be awesome.
#24
01-26-2014, 08:21 AM
Everyone ready for an update?
I didn't do anything yet. I keep reading, searching for someone with success before me. Unfortunately, I just keep getting more information about people who have already tried chemical flushes of all kinds (certainly stronger than CLR) with no success.
I found a new indy guy who took an interest to this issue. I initially approached him with a request to replace the core (he bid about $600 using a factory replacement part). However, after 1 1/2 hours of talking, he really wants to try flushing it first. He uses a garden hose and full shop air to blast it. As he puts it, what do we have to lose? We talked about the pressure limits of the pipes, hoses, core, etc. He understands all of that, but explained that he has done literally 100's of Passats with the same issue with 95% success. Again, more talk about the many people who have tried flushing with no luck. He feels the high pressure is the ticket. Showed me pictures of the crap that he has gotten out of heater cores this way. He will do it for less than $100.
I think it's worth a try. I go in Tuesday morning, and he will have it done in less than an hour. If the whole thing blows up he will have the parts overnight and fixed the next day. I'll let you know how it goes...
I didn't do anything yet. I keep reading, searching for someone with success before me. Unfortunately, I just keep getting more information about people who have already tried chemical flushes of all kinds (certainly stronger than CLR) with no success.
I found a new indy guy who took an interest to this issue. I initially approached him with a request to replace the core (he bid about $600 using a factory replacement part). However, after 1 1/2 hours of talking, he really wants to try flushing it first. He uses a garden hose and full shop air to blast it. As he puts it, what do we have to lose? We talked about the pressure limits of the pipes, hoses, core, etc. He understands all of that, but explained that he has done literally 100's of Passats with the same issue with 95% success. Again, more talk about the many people who have tried flushing with no luck. He feels the high pressure is the ticket. Showed me pictures of the crap that he has gotten out of heater cores this way. He will do it for less than $100.
I think it's worth a try. I go in Tuesday morning, and he will have it done in less than an hour. If the whole thing blows up he will have the parts overnight and fixed the next day. I'll let you know how it goes...
I have been thinking about several things I've seen on the topic and rolled that into my personal experience, and offer these observations for your consideration:
- Goopy stuff in the core? On the surface, this sounds like someone topped off their cooling system with green juice. Green and orange do not play well together and this could be the result.
- Debris in the core. Having played with two cores now - mine and a used replacement - the stuff that came out was just lodged debris as you hope to find. In my case it was black pepper (long story) and in the replacement it looked like rubber shards from the inside of the hoses. No chemical in the world will dissolve it if it's rubber without hurting other parts.
- Failure timing. If rubber is the culprit, how many have no too long before replaced one or more hoses? Or is the real problem that we should be replacing the hoses and are not? If this is true, our fixes are temporary at best until we renew the rubber.
Oh, and if you're intent on the high-pressure flush, I'd start bottom to top (reverse flow) as to not improve the position of any uncommitted debris.
Hope this helps.
#25
01-26-2014, 08:37 AM
#26
01-27-2014, 02:23 AM
Veteran Member
Gates had an article around saying much the same thing. The rubber gets attacked on the inside and turns hard, then flakes.
#27
01-28-2014, 07:26 AM
Veteran Member
Up until last Sunday, I was absolutely convinced that I had the dreaded gel in my heater core problem since I would get near to no heat on the driver's foot well and marginal heat on the passenger foot well. Well after replacing the auxiliary pump, full heat was restored on both sides.
The auxiliary pump was dead. After removing it, I applied 12 volts across the terminal and there was no movement.
In reading this thread there was no mention of testing the auxiliary pump for proper operation. There will be no codes thrown if the pump is non-operational.
Of course, I am assuming that the heater core flush attempt is being made to restore heat in the passenger compartment....
My couple of cents for consideration....
The auxiliary pump was dead. After removing it, I applied 12 volts across the terminal and there was no movement.
In reading this thread there was no mention of testing the auxiliary pump for proper operation. There will be no codes thrown if the pump is non-operational.
Of course, I am assuming that the heater core flush attempt is being made to restore heat in the passenger compartment....
My couple of cents for consideration....
#28
01-28-2014, 02:08 PM
#31
01-28-2014, 07:51 PM
The flush did nothing. Not a thing.
But, they did say my hoses on the engine were reading 180, and the heater hoses were reading 130. They did not hear the pump running, but admit they didn't really check it.
So I will start there. Anyone with some guidance on where it is located and how to get it out?
But, they did say my hoses on the engine were reading 180, and the heater hoses were reading 130. They did not hear the pump running, but admit they didn't really check it.
So I will start there. Anyone with some guidance on where it is located and how to get it out?
#32
01-28-2014, 09:01 PM
Veteran Member
The flush did nothing. Not a thing.
But, they did say my hoses on the engine were reading 180, and the heater hoses were reading 130. They did not hear the pump running, but admit they didn't really check it.
So I will start there. Anyone with some guidance on where it is located and how to get it out?
But, they did say my hoses on the engine were reading 180, and the heater hoses were reading 130. They did not hear the pump running, but admit they didn't really check it.
So I will start there. Anyone with some guidance on where it is located and how to get it out?
The first picture is my old auxiliary pump hanging loose after removing the electric fan cowl (I was in the process of removing the radiator). The bottom of the picture is where the radiator would be.
The second picture is the the brand new pump I obtained from Gaudin Jaguar.
The following users liked this post:
RCSnyder (01-29-2014)
#33
01-29-2014, 06:26 AM
What's the best way to test it in-situ? Can I just apply 12v and listen for a hum? Obviously, if I start the car, I'm not going to hear much of anything except the engine.
My indy shop tried the flush last week and it really didn't help at all. There are no warm/cold areas. It's all tepid. It's not frigid, so at least there is some warming going on, but i'd guess that if I set the thermostat to 72, the air coming out is probably 67.
My indy shop tried the flush last week and it really didn't help at all. There are no warm/cold areas. It's all tepid. It's not frigid, so at least there is some warming going on, but i'd guess that if I set the thermostat to 72, the air coming out is probably 67.
#35
01-29-2014, 09:36 PM
#36
01-30-2014, 05:34 AM
Here's one at Amazon http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/...ins=B004JPZ46M
There's also an interesting write up here: JCNA Forums - Jaguar Clubs of North America
There's also an interesting write up here: JCNA Forums - Jaguar Clubs of North America
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