Gonna' Pick up 20 HP for 17$
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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#10
That is one dirty air filter! And I sympathize on the rat pellets - I just recently had to repair the wires on whatever is the little device in the bottom of the air filter box due to a rodent of some kind chewing them off. And I had an overheat event that may have been caused by the super charger coolant pump not running, so I coud have rodent damage down there too.
I have a K&N bought on eBay but I did not oil it (couldn't find the cleaning and oiling kit I have for the E-type's K&Ns) so it has just whatever oil was in it. Any problem running it that way?
I have a K&N bought on eBay but I did not oil it (couldn't find the cleaning and oiling kit I have for the E-type's K&Ns) so it has just whatever oil was in it. Any problem running it that way?
#11
It is preoiled
That is one dirty air filter! And I sympathize on the rat pellets - I just recently had to repair the wires on whatever is the little device in the bottom of the air filter box due to a rodent of some kind chewing them off. And I had an overheat event that may have been caused by the super charger coolant pump not running, so I coud have rodent damage down there too.
I have a K&N bought on eBay but I did not oil it (couldn't find the cleaning and oiling kit I have for the E-type's K&Ns) so it has just whatever oil was in it. Any problem running it that way?
I have a K&N bought on eBay but I did not oil it (couldn't find the cleaning and oiling kit I have for the E-type's K&Ns) so it has just whatever oil was in it. Any problem running it that way?
After reading about MAF issues in A-8 and S-8 Audi's I took them out of my cars.
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I'm sure a fresh filter will certainly help the car breathe more easily and perform better for sure
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Don B (07-08-2016)
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Don B (07-08-2016)
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I love a good K&N discussion!
I've offered this suggestion before: to test the maximum benefit that can be gained by using a filter other than the OE paper type, wait for a good rain to wash most of the pollutants from the air, then remove the air filter, leave the lid off the housing, and take a drive.
You may have the sense that the engine seems a little more responsive at middle and higher revs, which may be true. But your "butt dyno" may also be influenced by the increased induction noise, leading to something akin to the placebo effect.
What you are experiencing is the maximum possible improvement a K&N filter could provide if it offered no more resistance to air flow than the open air filter housing itself. But a K&N filter must offer at least a little more resistance than that, even if it is less than a stock paper filter. So the real-world benefit of a K&N will be less than no filter at all.
My assessment is this: For racing engines that are rebuilt before every season (or every race), a K&N may be the perfect filter. But since a filter that can allow more air flow can also allow larger particles of airborne debris, I've decided an acceptable compromise is to live with slightly reduced engine response and induction noise in the interest of better filtration and longer engine life.
My two cents!
Don
I've offered this suggestion before: to test the maximum benefit that can be gained by using a filter other than the OE paper type, wait for a good rain to wash most of the pollutants from the air, then remove the air filter, leave the lid off the housing, and take a drive.
You may have the sense that the engine seems a little more responsive at middle and higher revs, which may be true. But your "butt dyno" may also be influenced by the increased induction noise, leading to something akin to the placebo effect.
What you are experiencing is the maximum possible improvement a K&N filter could provide if it offered no more resistance to air flow than the open air filter housing itself. But a K&N filter must offer at least a little more resistance than that, even if it is less than a stock paper filter. So the real-world benefit of a K&N will be less than no filter at all.
My assessment is this: For racing engines that are rebuilt before every season (or every race), a K&N may be the perfect filter. But since a filter that can allow more air flow can also allow larger particles of airborne debris, I've decided an acceptable compromise is to live with slightly reduced engine response and induction noise in the interest of better filtration and longer engine life.
My two cents!
Don
#16
I love a good K&N discussion!
I've offered this suggestion before: to test the maximum benefit that can be gained by using a filter other than the OE paper type, wait for a good rain to wash most of the pollutants from the air, then remove the air filter, leave the lid off the housing, and take a drive.
You may have the sense that the engine seems a little more responsive at middle and higher revs, which may be true. But your "butt dyno" may also be influenced by the increased induction noise, leading to something akin to the placebo effect.
What you are experiencing is the maximum possible improvement a K&N filter could provide if it offered no more resistance to air flow than the open air filter housing itself. But a K&N filter must offer at least a little more resistance than that, even if it is less than a stock paper filter. So the real-world benefit of a K&N will be less than no filter at all.
My assessment is this: For racing engines that are rebuilt before every season (or every race), a K&N may be the perfect filter. But since a filter that can allow more air flow can also allow larger particles of airborne debris, I've decided an acceptable compromise is to live with slightly reduced engine response and induction noise in the interest of better filtration and longer engine life.
My two cents!
Don
I've offered this suggestion before: to test the maximum benefit that can be gained by using a filter other than the OE paper type, wait for a good rain to wash most of the pollutants from the air, then remove the air filter, leave the lid off the housing, and take a drive.
You may have the sense that the engine seems a little more responsive at middle and higher revs, which may be true. But your "butt dyno" may also be influenced by the increased induction noise, leading to something akin to the placebo effect.
What you are experiencing is the maximum possible improvement a K&N filter could provide if it offered no more resistance to air flow than the open air filter housing itself. But a K&N filter must offer at least a little more resistance than that, even if it is less than a stock paper filter. So the real-world benefit of a K&N will be less than no filter at all.
My assessment is this: For racing engines that are rebuilt before every season (or every race), a K&N may be the perfect filter. But since a filter that can allow more air flow can also allow larger particles of airborne debris, I've decided an acceptable compromise is to live with slightly reduced engine response and induction noise in the interest of better filtration and longer engine life.
My two cents!
Don
The real issue is the size of the particulate matter that can pass through a filter. And there is where paper elements lead the pack. Yes, you have to change them. Yes, you do throw away the small particulate matter that they captured.
When the marketing hype is evaluated, one is that the expense of changing paper filters yearly cost more than the one time expense of oil bathed filters. However, the recharge kits costs more than simply replacing the paper filter. You don't have to spend time washing, drying and oiling when you drop a new paper filter in. There is no chance of damaging the gauze, over oiling, and the total cost of ownership can actually be less.
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