Headliner renewal X350
#41
Not very likely as you need room to mess with the sunroof to alt least tilt it down to slide the panel out. I didn't completely remove the assembly, just pulled the forward fasteners and loosened the rear to allow the assembly to rotate downward enough to extract the panel. But none of that would be very easy or doable with the headliner in your way. Probably would end up damaging the shell in the process.
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Thermite (08-30-2024)
#42
Not very likely as you need room to mess with the sunroof to alt least tilt it down to slide the panel out. I didn't completely remove the assembly, just pulled the forward fasteners and loosened the rear to allow the assembly to rotate downward enough to extract the panel. But none of that would be very easy or doable with the headliner in your way. Probably would end up damaging the shell in the process.
#43
Once and done is usually cheaper and faster, overall.
#44
Yes, that makes sense. Thanks again.
#45
Having done this twice on an X350 (two different cars), and once on XK, I would suggest; If you remove it yourself, when you remove the old liner, make sure to leave zero trace of the old foam that is what is adhered to the frame/buck/base. After you do this (scotch-brite pad and good stiff boar hair brush), then you could do what I did, which is spray on several coats of a high quality clear satin spar urethane or polyurethane on the side that faces headliner material. This will give the new glue (and headliner material) something to grab onto that is less prone to premature failure due to humidity. Also, the urethane adds a level of stiffness that seemed to make it easier to install. Since this is almost an inevitable failure in Jaguars of this vintage, my personal theory is heat and humidity kill the crappy foam that lines the headliner material. My original foam was like a dry powder that had totally dried out.
Once I had done that, I purchased my own headliner material (Alcantara in one case), and brought board and material to my upholstery shop. There is no way I could have sprayed on the glue and professionally prepped (cuts, notches, folds, and molding it to contours) that the car upholstery shop did. They gave me quite a price break since they did not have to remove, clean, or install the headliner assembly. And they loved the Alcantara
Once I had done that, I purchased my own headliner material (Alcantara in one case), and brought board and material to my upholstery shop. There is no way I could have sprayed on the glue and professionally prepped (cuts, notches, folds, and molding it to contours) that the car upholstery shop did. They gave me quite a price break since they did not have to remove, clean, or install the headliner assembly. And they loved the Alcantara
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Tigre (08-31-2024)
#46
Run with windows even "partially" open at-speed, and the turbulence hastens fail VERY rapidly as well. Try to scrub or VACUUM a dirty "OEM" headliner, only if you are ready to replace it 'right now'!
Replacing? 'Job ONE', in my NSHO, is to do it differently.
So it CAN be wiped, scrubbed, vacuumed, or otherwise cleaned without harm.
Last edited by Thermite; 08-30-2024 at 07:16 PM.
#47
#48
Having done this twice on an X350 (two different cars), and once on XK, I would suggest; If you remove it yourself, when you remove the old liner, make sure to leave zero trace of the old foam that is what is adhered to the frame/buck/base. After you do this (scotch-brite pad and good stiff boar hair brush), then you could do what I did, which is spray on several coats of a high quality clear satin spar urethane or polyurethane on the side that faces headliner material. This will give the new glue (and headliner material) something to grab onto that is less prone to premature failure due to humidity. Also, the urethane adds a level of stiffness that seemed to make it easier to install. Since this is almost an inevitable failure in Jaguars of this vintage, my personal theory is heat and humidity kill the crappy foam that lines the headliner material. My original foam was like a dry powder that had totally dried out.
Once I had done that, I purchased my own headliner material (Alcantara in one case), and brought board and material to my upholstery shop. There is no way I could have sprayed on the glue and professionally prepped (cuts, notches, folds, and molding it to contours) that the car upholstery shop did. They gave me quite a price break since they did not have to remove, clean, or install the headliner assembly. And they loved the Alcantara
Once I had done that, I purchased my own headliner material (Alcantara in one case), and brought board and material to my upholstery shop. There is no way I could have sprayed on the glue and professionally prepped (cuts, notches, folds, and molding it to contours) that the car upholstery shop did. They gave me quite a price break since they did not have to remove, clean, or install the headliner assembly. And they loved the Alcantara
On the other hand, I had a mechanic's shop do a few jobs including a transmission flush late last year. It took over eight months to finally get the leak that resulted found and fixed. It turned out that the plastic transmission pan was leaking right through the material. I don't know if they damaged it, or being 19 years old it was just worn out. The transmission gear shift is more noticeable now since that fluid change was done, hopefully it won't get worse.
As a result I am even more cautious about who I take it to. Jaguar dealerships are too expensive for me, and a fair distance away. I will have a closer look at the process to remove the headliner to see if I feel up to doing the job myself. I have done a few jobs on the car and they turned out well. Maybe I am just getting too old to want to do it.
#49
CTSEMICON said : "........then you could do what I did, which is spray on several coats of a high quality clear satin spar urethane or polyurethane on the side that faces headliner material. This will give the new glue (and headliner material) something to grab onto."
This is a good idea. Often when applied to a porous material, this type of adhesive will dry out quickly and flake away. Sealing the substrate allows the adhesive to remain effective longer.
For example, I have heard from old time vinyl floor guys. " If you really want the vinyl glue to last a long time, primer-seal the wood floor before applying the glue."
This is a good idea. Often when applied to a porous material, this type of adhesive will dry out quickly and flake away. Sealing the substrate allows the adhesive to remain effective longer.
For example, I have heard from old time vinyl floor guys. " If you really want the vinyl glue to last a long time, primer-seal the wood floor before applying the glue."
Last edited by Tigre; 08-31-2024 at 12:07 PM.
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JagFastEddy (08-31-2024)
#50
I managed to remove the headliner via the rear passenger door, but in both cases it was a LWB. Other forum members, please chime in on SWB? Speaking of which, there are several members who posted very detailed, accurate descriptions of removal and re-installation (with pictures). Do a search on "Headliner" or the like.
One other note, since you will be removing the A and B Pillar Trim, I suggest getting those recovered at the same time, especially if the material is headliner is noticeably different shade/texture than OEM
One other note, since you will be removing the A and B Pillar Trim, I suggest getting those recovered at the same time, especially if the material is headliner is noticeably different shade/texture than OEM
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JagFastEddy (08-31-2024)
#51
I managed to remove the headliner via the rear passenger door, but in both cases it was a LWB. Other forum members, please chime in on SWB? Speaking of which, there are several members who posted very detailed, accurate descriptions of removal and re-installation (with pictures). Do a search on "Headliner" or the like.
One other note, since you will be removing the A and B Pillar Trim, I suggest getting those recovered at the same time, especially if the material is headliner is noticeably different shade/texture than OEM
One other note, since you will be removing the A and B Pillar Trim, I suggest getting those recovered at the same time, especially if the material is headliner is noticeably different shade/texture than OEM
#52
When is the last time any of you lot looked up at a(ny) headliner... and threw a hissy-fit because ...... it had a SEAM in it?
My plan for the XJ8-L is to cut and change to a three piece. "Scrubbable".
At front: Left of sunroof & console. Right of sunroof & console.
At rear: full width of rear edge of sunroof, then on to the back.
Lazy, Iyam.
#53
The suggestion of one member to use a sealant on the shell is a good idea to promote good adhesion. The typical headliner material is quite stretchy so I don't see an issue with the pockets or molding of the shell.
3M super 90 is designed for high heat and worked great for the headliner.
I personally used a vinyl/polyurethane type of material which is not as friendly to use but does stretch diagonally and can also be heated with heat gun to encourage compliance with deeper recesses (albeit being careful not to overheat or burn the material). The look was far more classy than the stock lining would be and not nearly as fragile or easily marred or stained.
The pockets where the grab handles are did require separate inserts because of the type of material that I was using. These were laid in first but were barely even noticeable once finished.
And FYI for everyone, this was done on a short wheel base without removing the rear glass. Just move the passenger seat all the way forward and tilt it fully back to remove the shell. When installing it I did pull the passenger seat out for better access.
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Thermite (08-31-2024)
#56
Black can be subliminally oppressive. Greys or Beiges are friendlier.
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