P1111 is good to hear!

Trims are probably OK but I like to check...

 

dear all,
my old girl has been starting to use huge amounts of fuel and is burning a rich mixture. I plugged my magic OBD reader into the car system and voila, P1647 showed up with the comment, „Heated oxygen control module, bank 2 open/shorted“ appeared. Reading your remarks and comments here helped but … what is upstream and downstream. References taken from the front of the engine are useful but always say if you are viewing from the console or the radiator.
I purchased 2 Denso sensors last year so have a few reserves :-). DOX-0430 might mean something to you all as it‘s the part number. Could anybody let me know if this is the right part for the job and which of the 4 sensors is the right one.

Thanks
Stig

 

Upstream is the one closest to the engine.

 

"Bank 2" is where firing-order cylinder #2 and it's even-numbered brethren reside. Driver's side, US market cars, for the AJ133 gasoline-fueled NA V8 (and not-only).. but have a care as to "convention' and assumptons. JLR did - or acquired - something pre-verted as to numbering on some of the motors they used - went 1,2,3,4 down one side 5,6,7,8 on the other. German thing, was that?

O2 goods are a PITA to get wrench to, age and contamination insults are seldom "localized" with any degree of precision, stuff happens in "waves" once it starts.

One sensor goes and none were anywhere near new?
I kept it simple. Bought all four.

Two new CATS as well, given remaining life is a dice-roll after 100K miles, and if/as/when those get borked sensors cannot command enough upstream change to FIX that, but will make the attempt, "good idea at the time" or not, fail emissions inspection needful flags, even if not running rough.

One wouldn't ask a dentist to pull but 1/4 of a bad tooth at a time, wuddja?

Or is masochism on the installment plan why you are not the only one to have spares to hand, in advance?


Better to take the hit of four in one go, get pissed-off and dirty but once, get it over with?

Best to not even ask .... until we have had time enough to forget ... how much "fun" it was, either, given my "lift" is better known as "jackstands" ... and a bit of fake astroturf carpet so I don't have to chase the sockets I drop clear down the road!

Could be worse. Think Diesel-electric submarine repairs whilst under depth-charge attack, air running out, chlorine intruding off seawater getting at the batteries.. and it should seem a walk in the park?

 

I guess I’ve been lucky or maybe it’s because I’ve just worked on cars that have lived their lives in the south and are not very rusty underneath, but I’ve never had a problem getting out and O2 sensor with just a wrench. I do not doubt that some people that have northern cars or cars with lots of rust underneath. Find it difficult to remove those parts but knock on wood. I havent experience that yet.

But for the question, I was asked an upstream sensor is the sensor that is closest to the exhaust manifold. It’ll be another sensor either in the middle of the Cal converter or after it and that’s the sensor 2.

No, I would swap O2 senses from one side to the other before replacing them just to make sure it’s not a shorted wire and the harness that’s causing the problem

always go with an OEM manufacturer when replacing your sensors because I’ve had little luck with aftermarket

 

Truly! You should sacrifice a goat or sumthin', but it isn't as bad as before "STAINLESS" (weell not really, but close!) got adopted in place of shiddy-shoddy mild steel whatever-alloy was cheapest that week for exhaust systems.

Less work to put a meter on them, but "cold" doesn't tell the whole story, regardless, and the built-in brain's codes actually do a decent job of recognizing failure or "out of bounds" ranges.

I lower my risk by doing the whole circus in one go to reduce likelihood of annoying piecemeal failure aannnnd improve the odds of calibration being a better match.

Back when I had cause to add Sta-Bil or similar and have a vehicle set for a year or two between fresh fueling, O2 sensors didn't last very long, either. OTOH, there was but one, not two or four.

Mate of mine lucked-out on a late 1940's MG roadster "TC" or "TD"? barn-parked with the recommended full tank, close to half a century earlier.

Not a solvent he could find as would remove the "plastic" it had become down where the bottom plumbing sat to save that otherwise pristine tank. Eventually had a new "slab" type fuel tank fabbed from bare metal.

Motor fuels have some right nasty chemistry in their two-dozen or so components, much of it hostile to sensors if we let it be so. Same, again, some so-called "system cleaner" snake-oils.

 

Aarcuda,

I replaced the two cited above with: DENSO2349030 just about a year ago & everything went great. Rockauto delivered ahead of schedule & the installation, thanks to Jag Forum help, was on the easier side.

Good luck,
Steve S.

 

First started using Rockauto, I was kinda embarrassed over being sech a cheapskate.

Came to find out the computer at the local major-chain brick-and-mortar parts house had a link to Rockauto, too, and now and then made use of it.

I quit feeling like a miser.. kept checking Rockauto first for their easy to use website and good parts info.. but soon also found even lower-cost sources!

Keeping "vintage" motorcars sweet - any marque - is only about fifty-percent research and wrenching.

The equally important "other half" is thoroughly researched and sharply-focused purchasing.