Heater core source?
#1
Heater core source?
05 XJR; I ordered a heater core on line, the layout on the new one was different; longer, narrower yet wider where it slips into the box. So that one is going back, anyone sourced the proper one, at least a part # & o-rings as well. looks like it is down of a week, might as well do it right
#3
Looks like the one on parts Geek #W0133-1824356 is the right one, it is listed as for a 2004. They show one like the wrong one I got as correct for 2005 XJR. I had no idea until we tunneled back far enough to get it out, what it looked like. I'm going ahead with the PartsGeek one, hopefully that will be an end to it.
Last edited by Eric-in-Texas; 05-29-2021 at 03:05 PM.
#4
Let us know how things work out, & how hard a job it is to do.
Am having the typical issues with the heater core in the 04.
The one in the 07, is much better, after a new auxiliary water pump.
But not so much with the 04, it is some better but just not enough yet.
Will try back flushing first, before replacing the core, just not real confident it will work.
Good Luck To You
Am having the typical issues with the heater core in the 04.
The one in the 07, is much better, after a new auxiliary water pump.
But not so much with the 04, it is some better but just not enough yet.
Will try back flushing first, before replacing the core, just not real confident it will work.
Good Luck To You
#5
My issue was a slow leak, the cabin smelled of antifreeze unless you just turned the climate control off. It was better when the outside temps were above 80° F.
As to getting it out, my boys did the labor, but they complained that the glove box was a bit more complicated to get out than necessary, and we had to make a tool to get the hidden bolt where the front part of the blower meets the firewall. (we took a less valuable 10mm and bent it with a torch, vice and hammer) (BTW Map gas works nearly as well as oyx-acetylene for heating parts and tools.) Before pulling the core, have both lines heater lines below the anti-lock cluster disconnected and blow the coolant out of the core & lines, to save making a mess inside the car. For now; waiting on parts.
As to getting it out, my boys did the labor, but they complained that the glove box was a bit more complicated to get out than necessary, and we had to make a tool to get the hidden bolt where the front part of the blower meets the firewall. (we took a less valuable 10mm and bent it with a torch, vice and hammer) (BTW Map gas works nearly as well as oyx-acetylene for heating parts and tools.) Before pulling the core, have both lines heater lines below the anti-lock cluster disconnected and blow the coolant out of the core & lines, to save making a mess inside the car. For now; waiting on parts.
Last edited by Eric-in-Texas; 05-30-2021 at 01:20 PM.
#6
#7
Taking it all out is not too much of a problem. Glovebox out , heater motor out and then the housing for the heater blower. It's the refit that will make you go GRRRR. replace the pipe clamp screws with bolts it will make the refit MUCH easier but even then you will find the clamps move about as you assemble. Once you have the clamps on fill the system and check for leaks before you refit everything else. The blower housing alsmost made me torch the car because it just would not go in the last half inch or so. This was because there is a rivnut with a stud in it on the bulkhead (firewall) that you have to get in the right place for it all to go back in. I removed the stud and put in an M8 , I think it was m8 ) rivnut and used a bolt instead and the whole thing just dropped right into place first go. Themain pita is you are doing a lot of this on your head wishing you had arms like pipe cleaners and fingers 3 ft long with the strength of hercules. I can see why main dealer charge so much because it is a very particular set of physical atributes they are looking for from their employees.
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#8
Taking it all out is not too much of a problem. Glovebox out , heater motor out and then the housing for the heater blower. It's the refit that will make you go GRRRR. replace the pipe clamp screws with bolts it will make the refit MUCH easier but even then you will find the clamps move about as you assemble. Once you have the clamps on fill the system and check for leaks before you refit everything else. The blower housing alsmost made me torch the car because it just would not go in the last half inch or so. This was because there is a rivnut with a stud in it on the bulkhead (firewall) that you have to get in the right place for it all to go back in. I removed the stud and put in an M8 , I think it was m8 ) rivnut and used a bolt instead and the whole thing just dropped right into place first go. Themain pita is you are doing a lot of this on your head wishing you had arms like pipe cleaners and fingers 3 ft long with the strength of hercules. I can see why main dealer charge so much because it is a very particular set of physical atributes they are looking for from their employees.
#9
Not so sure I can agree on that one, there is the one that fits mine which is very nearly square, and the one that is a long skinny rectangle. I don't know that it actually fits any of them, but it is the more widely offered.
#10
#14
Saw those on ebay, used, for sale also, some with hoses still attached,.
Your right though, yours is WAY closer to being square..
Their small drawing sure looks more like yours, than this thing does.
Makes me more inclined to believe the Ford one might fit.
Summit has a generic listed for $92
Just noticed the small line on the unit.
For separate side heat temperature control?
Your right though, yours is WAY closer to being square..
Their small drawing sure looks more like yours, than this thing does.
Makes me more inclined to believe the Ford one might fit.
Summit has a generic listed for $92
Just noticed the small line on the unit.
For separate side heat temperature control?
Last edited by Wingrider; 06-02-2021 at 02:02 PM.
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