Hello all, long time follower, first time posting as a member. I am in need of some help with my 2004 XJR. This has been an ongoing headache for several weeks/months and it's been a long journey to get to here.

The first issue began when the Car was in storage for a while in a garage and apparently the battery went dead. The trunk had partially released, but could not be opened and the key did not work. I put an automatic charger on the positive terminal in the passenger kick panel and managed to get a full charge into the battery. We were able to get the car running one day but the trunk button on the lid or in the car still would not work. We had an appointment at a local mechanic with some experience the following day, but when we attempted to start it...nothing. Even when the charger was placed on the kick panel terminal and read fully charged, no crank and no start. Also, we noticed that certain electrical things worked and some did not despite fuses being just fine (e.g. gauges, LCD, radio, passenger seat all worked, but other seat, headlights, interior lights, windows, mirrors do not).

After peeling through several posts online we decided to take out the back seat to gain entry to the trunk. Thankfully, someone had removed the metal plate previously as this car does not have the optional ski hatch (perhaps this has happened before) so we were able to access the release inside the trunk. We placed the battery on charge until the light was green but achieved the same result. No crank, no start. Swapped batteries out with our 96 VDP and same result. Also, same electrical gremlins have persisted with some things working and others not. Previously, when we had the car running on that one day all accessories were working except for the trunk buttons.

At this time here is what happens when i attempt to start.

Key in ignition, turn, gauges on, display comes on, but notes fuel low and indicates gas stations will be shown on screen (so fuel gauge isn't reading) Also, error message on dash indicates cruise control will not work. I have a PB fault (but that was on there previously). Additionally, the backup sensor just beeps constantly as if i am in reverse (since there is something behind me). Car is in park and i can shift through the gears when key is turned and i get the warning if i leave it in gear and attempt to turn the vehicle off or on. When i turn the key nothing happens, the gauges do dim and the screen will turn off and on as well.

Based on some threads I am wondering if the BCM is at issue here. I have tried to reset the ECM by disconnecting the battery and touching the leads to each other, but to no avail.

Any recommendations or assistance here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Always know that the primary key will open the trunk manually. Keyhole is located next to the rear license plate lamp. Second, check to see if the cable attachment plate is secure on the side of the transmission and there is not a bolt missing or loose. This can cause a no-start, and possible not-in-park situation. (in reverse) Another quick way to check this, is place the key in ignition II position apply foot brake and move the shifter out of park towards neutral and see if the rear warning stops. You can try to start in the neutral position. If the bolts are tight and not missing then you will need to dive deeper into electrical system diagnosis.

 

If the battery really is good, do a search on this, then it could be a ground connection somewhere that is not making good contact. That I think would be best case scenario so long as you can find it.

 

Thanks Box and Jackra_1. I forgot to mention that I did figure out why the key didn't open the trunk. Once we got the trunk open i discovered the linkage on the key cylinder had disconnected from the trunk latch, so i have fixed that issue.

I did see the transmission linkage mentioned before as well and could not see anything missing or loose there either. Would have loved to have it be an easy fix like that. I am worried it may be a ground fault somewhere as well, only issue is where.

Thanks.

 

Did you try ignition II position, apply foot brake and move to neutral? Did the reverse warning stop?

 

I thought i had tried this previously, but tried again this morning and the reverse warning does not stop when shifted to neutral. However if i move it into any other gear and turn the car off it makes that tone indicating car is in gear. It doesn't do that when in park and i could not see anything loose on the shift linkage previously which is why i didn't believe that to be the issue. Also that coupled with the random items not functioning in the car. Thoughts?

 

What codes are currently present? Your issue may require point to point testing in order to help you.

 

I had a P1111 code stored initially and now the only new code it shows is P1000 which I have read is pretty generic and indicates that the battery has been disconnected and reconnected and/or systems not ready.

 

A P1111 code means that the drive cycle has been completed.

Just took my car for an MD emissions test and I used an OBDII generic tester to check codes out 1st and got a P1111 code so looked it up to make sure all was well before taking it in.

A week or so ago I cleared some fault codes because of a loose connection on the TB

You are correct on the P1000 code.

 

A P1000 code is not good for an emissions test and you need to complete a drive cycle to get a P1111 code.

 

You may need SDD to assist you. The next place to start is JTIS and no-start pinpoint testing under Powertrain, Starter. If anti-theft is active, you will more than likely need dealer assistance.

Anti-Theft - Passive

The best method to confirm the correct operation of PATS is to check the LED (located in the center of the instrument panel). The LED should illuminate solid for 3 seconds when the key is turned to the run position and then extinguish. This validates the PATS functions (the key transponder matches the key code stored, the challenge/response sequence between the instrument cluster (IC) and the engine control module (ECM) was successful resulting in the ECM being enabled). The ECM will disable the fuel injectors, ignition coils, fuel pump drive and starter if any of the following conditions apply, a theft signal has been received from the IC (the key has not been authenticated), a challenge code has been transmitted to the IC but no response code has been received, a challenge code has been transmitted to the IC and an incorrect response received. If any of the above cases apply, the ECM will log DTC P1260. This DTC is further defined by sub-codes. The sub-codes are accessed through mode 12 (freeze frame data). Additionally the IC will log DTC's if the failure was a result of the key read.

Engine fails to crank.

If a PATS fault is detected, the LED will flash for 60 seconds at 4Hz with a 50% duty cycle. At the end of this period, the LED will flash a 2 digit code, this code is repeated 10 times. The meaning of this code along with the frequency of flashing is given in the accompanying table (as a general rule a fault code of 16 or less will cause the vehicle not to crank. Additionally, the Jaguar Approved Diagnostic System should be used to check the DTC stored in the IC. The most regular occurrence for failing to crank is due to the park and neutral switches (gearshift not in park or neutral). The start circuit is as follows, low side of relay coil (Switched directly from the instrument cluster, if conditions correct), high side of relay of coil (from ignition start position through gearbox rotary start switches to relay).Another likely cause maybe the CAN network is malfunctioning, (the CAN circuit is open/short). This means that the IC and ECM would be unable to communicate resulting in no challenge being performed to enable the ECM. On US manual vehicles the addition of a clutch switch has been included in the starting circuit, this switch takes place of the park/neutral switch (auto transmission). The switch activates at end of travel (clutch fully depressed).