Changing spark plugs on my 2005 jaguar vdp and having issues. I was able to change the four on the passenger side, but can't get the plastic cover (the one that covers over the coil packs) out of the way on the drivers side. Looks like I could remove the oil cap and neck to get it out but can't seem to remove the neck. May have to suck it up and have my dealer do it. Any thoughts on what needs to be removed in order to change those plugs would be appreciated.
Greg

 

Greg,

I've moved your question from the US Mid West Region section to the X350 section.

More members here with the same model will be able to advise on the plug change.

Graham

 

I've not done the plugs on this engine yet, but if you just want to remove the oil filler neck it should just unscrew from the cam cover. May need a strap wrench to get it going. Just be careful not to break the plastic.

 

Thanks Mark. I tried to unscrew it by hand but maybe more force is needed. If I get it off, then I think the next challenge will be where the fuel line runs over top one of the coil packs. I'm hoping I don't have to disconnect the fuel line.

 

One other note- it appears the oil filler neck is reverse threaded?

 

Greg, I had a Shadetree mechanic change mine and I watched him. Unfortunately I can't remember if he took the oil filler tube off, I thought he simply took the filler cap off. I do know that he disconnected the airbox from the throttlebody, and he did not disconnect any fuel lines. The air box was kind of tough to get off, but that allowed a lot more working room. Maybe give that a try.

 

Thanks Jim. I was able to eventually slide it out although it will be very interesting to see how I get it back in. Now the next challenge (they sure make it challenging for what should be a fairly simple task): I was able to change the one by the oil dipstick (towards the front of the car) but the one beside it doesn't seem to be able to get past the fuel line. See picture. I'm not a fan of fuel lines...can I bend the line (it's rubber) to squeeze the coil pack past? The one closest to the firewall doesn't appear to have enough room to lift it out, but I'll leave that for another update.

 

Don't be afraid to move that fuel line around, I had mine flipped upside down when I removed the fuel rails awhile back. The line is very flexible. You should be able to get enough room to remove the bolt and pull that coil on plug out. Or, you could get a disconnect tool and pull it from that connector on the lower right. I picked up a set of A/C disconnect tools, but didn't get a chance to try an actual separation, so can't be of help there. Its supposed to work, however. Youtube it.

 

I'd go what Matt suggested and get teh quick-disconnect tool. Just make sure to depressurize the fuel rail first and have rags handy because some fuel will come out afterward.

If you haven't removed the airbox, definitely do that, and I found it's actually pretty easy. Pull the fiber intake duct off, unclamp the duct from the throttle body, unplug the MAF and the air temp sensor on the front edge, then remove the 8mm bolt from the right side of the box and lift up the whole assembly.

 

I appreciate the insight from everyone. I was able to get the next two plugs in without disconnecting the fuel line (had to do some cajoling with the lines and some twisting with the coil-on-plug), but I think I've met my match on the last one. It's right under the brake fluid resevoir cubby and I can only get it about 2/3's of the way out. Unless someone knows how to remove that plastic piece (and the insulation that covers it), I think I'll have to call the Dealer and ask them if they'll put the last plug in. So close .

 

Just to close this out, took it to the dealer this morning and had the last plug changed. Decided to have a deluxe fuel service done as well so got the fuel injectors cleaned up. Talked to the tech and he said the last plug just required some patience and fanagaling (new word ) so he didn't have to remove anything. Thanks to everyone for your advice/insight.

 

Greg, I'm right where you were except I decided to do the driver's side first since the passenger side looks so easy. Got the covers off with no problem and changed the first one next to the dipstick (although I'm freaking out because I had my torque wrench set for 18 ft/lb and it didn't click and I was afraid I was starting to strip the threads. I'll leave that one alone for now). I have not figured out how to get the coil past the fuel lines, but since you were able to get it out eventually, I guess I'll go back out and see if I can somehow finagle the coil past as you were eventually able to do without pulling the fuel lines (I do NOT want to do that). The other challenge is the two in the rear on each side. As you said, there's little clearance and there isn't enough room to get a socket and a long enough extension down, so I'm going to have to run back to the store and get another short extension (hoping that I can use two to daisy chain them as I feed the socket in). It sounds like you got it unthreaded but then couldn't get it out. I'm hoping with two small extensions I'll be able to pull each one off as I pull the plug up (I've got a million of those things around but of course I can't fine one when I need one). Man, my XJ6L only took about 15 minutes total (granted, only six plugs), but this is a pain.....

 

Gordon,
How did it go? You should have been able to move the fuel line enough to get the coil pack out. I too had to daisy chain different sized extensions and flex connectors in order to get the rear one out. It was just that darn driver's side. I still don't think I could get that one (unless someone offers up the solution -- with pictures).
I had one spark plug that was almost seized. When I went to remove it, I thought I was wrecking the threads and it scared the daylights out of me. Eventually got it out. Made sure I used a good coating of anti-seize compound on the new ones. Also set my torque to 18 ft lbs.

Hope you had as much fun as I did

Greg

 

I got the left rear (#8?) out, but it did tear up that insulation a little bit. I think I had to rotate it 180 degrees as well but not sure. In retrospect, I think if I put a piece of that thin metal roof flashing up against the insulation, I could then "slide" the coil with the flashing and keeping it from tearing.

Also, I certainly wrestled with #4 and getting the coil out around those fuel lines. I was concerned I was going to break something (why they don't have more flexible lines or a little longer lines is beyond me). I appreciate your encouragment (that you were able to get them out without removing the lines--something I did NOT want to do!).

I didn't have any that almost seized but I was concerned about over-tightening them when putting the new plugs in (didn't trust my torque wrench and thought I was stripping them) and ended up having to remove all eight coils again to re-torque because they were actually too loose. I did a write up called ""How to change the spark plugs on an X350" and posted it.

Thanks again for your info. It was very helpful!

Gordon

 

You do know there is a small cover that can be removed behind the brake fluid reservoir that allows easy access to Cylinder no#8.

It does require the wiper blades to be removed and the front panel cowel and that is a 2 minute job to do. pull 4 clips and the plastic pulls right out.

Here's the link to when I completed this task (with pictures).
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-plugs-104935/

 

Dang! Why couldn't I find this when I did a search previously so wrote up my one (no pix)?!! Great job! Thanks!

 

That's great info, trosty. Thanks for posting.

 

For anyone reading this thread looking for some ideas or help dealing with the tight access of the plugs, and getting the coils off without messing with fuel lines, the oil filler tube, and anything else, note that I was able to get all the coil packs off and all the plugs replaced without resorting to additional disassemble.

My methods?

Well, for removing the coil packs, I found that every single one came out as long as you took a moment to find the best path (almost always towards the front of car, and you don't "baby" them. You need to be willing to put a little force as they get caught on the side wall of the well, and muscle them out reasonably gently. That sounds like an oxymoron, but you know what I mean. I was worried on several that I might damage them, but they are fairly tough parts.

Well one really helpful thing was having a good assortment of socket extensions for my Spark Plug socket. These included a medium length (approx. 5-6") and a short extension (about 3-4")

By putting the 3-4" extension on top of the 5-6" one i was able to "feed the two into the pug well. When removing the plug, I would just remove the top/small extension as the pug was being pulled out. Doing the reverse while putting pugs in. I have a huge, 1/2" drive torque wrench, that requires an adapter to reduce it to 3/8" drive. It's also ridiculously large and difficult to manage in ordinary circumstances, so you can imagine using it in this situation. Still, there was only one plug that I could not torque with the moster torque wrench and did by feel (I am usually very close when I have to rely on "Muscle-o-meter" to torque something.