Just picked up a 2004 XJR the steering wheel is not centered and you can certainly feel the alignment is off. My previous 2003 STR had some very specific suggestions to have it aligned properly by brutal I believe. I've done some searching and haven't found much info on the alignment of the XJR. Are there any suggestions to make sure the tech does it "right"

Thanks in advance!

 

Modern wheel alignment rigs are computerised and usually have a library of vehicle settings that they check against. A check report is normally printed for the customer to show the results. The ones I get from my local Jaguar independent come with red ink for bad, and green for good ! Car also needs to be at the correct height. A shop will normally fix the steering wheel straight ahead and then adjust, to this misalignment is corrected.

PS
The car should track straight and if it doesn't there could be some suspension damage. How long have you owned the car ?

 

Got the car last night. It has new rack and inner/ outer tie rods installed. Looks like upper ball joints are needing replacement too. Boots are crumbled and wouldn't be surprised if they are the front end noise I can hear.. It wouldn't completelty surprise me if the alignment was completed with the summer wheels are tired installed. Which are toast and cupped on the inside terribly.

 

It will drift to the right if the wheel is kept straight. The steering feels tight but it's certainly off. Do upper ball joint effect alignment? ( deciding if I should do them prior to getting it in for an alignment)

 

It has a clean car fax and no sign of accidents. The owner was a member on these forums actually.

 

What I want to know.. does the info below apply to the XJR like it does to an STR? looks like it the same suspension setup outside of the air shocks.. I went to put the 20's on the car and they are worn extremely bad on the inside. I'll stick with the winter wheels and tires until I can get new tires ordered. My theory regarding the wear is to fold. poor alignment and the front air shocks failing on the prior owner on the trip from FL to Wisconsin. (seriously they look like motor cycle tires on the inside.)


The 100’s of Brutal’s Alignment Specs Threads summarized into one easy to follow How-To…
This affects all S-Types whether an R or not, if you suffer from inside front tire wear.

First tell the tech that all the factory specs in the alignment machine will be correct and not changed except for the FRONT TOE, and to follow these steps to ensure the proper alignment.

1-Set the rear Toe first.
2-Set Caster & Camber. Negative Camber should be as even as possible.
3-Set front Toe. Toe-in as close to +.13 L/R as possible, combined front Toe-in should be +.26. Then check toe deflection. If it moves the Toe out to the red zone then give it more negative Toe-in. Even in the red zone toe in if needed.

Side notes, ensure steering wheel is centered and locked. If you can’t get the Front Camber even, then have more negative on the right, less on the left. This will help counter act the road crown.

If your tech can’t or won’t follow these simple directions then find a new tech!

 

Brought the car in this morning to my local sears automotive an hour later the alignment was completed and everything back into spec. $89.00. Car tracks straight now. I haven't checked it out in detail yet but I suspect some worn bushings as there is some noise from the front suspension when going over rough roads. (fyi this noise was there prior to the alignment)

 

you need upper front control arms, Theyre a very common issue now with age and mileage, DO NOT be tenmted to get the cheap Ebay or othe after market arms unless youre doing the work youreself and dont mind doing again. (from experience) Buy geniune Jaguar arms that have Jaguar cast into the arms. All the rest you see suck and fail quickly. So much that I will not use them again its just not worth it.
As far as your alignment I would want to see the printout and I like to have .5* more negative camber on the right vs the left to combat road crown. Its works much better than caster spread. I use to let split boots go till there is play and did this on my GF Jaguar till she broke a ball joint. So just beware about letting go because you never no when that pothole will take out a BJ. If youre hearing noise youre on borrowed time. Dont risk a accident and torn up fender when the tire tries to exit the wheel well
and Yes you will need to realign when replaced as the alignment was dont before to different wear and tolerances in the suspension. Since you have a R rotate your front tires to rear and turn off traction control. Go to a desolate road or culde sac and do a few donuts to the left and right and Voila' the cupping will be gone. If staggered tires then rotate back, if not then leave them.

 

Thanks man.. I've read that the upper control arms are interchangeable between the S-type and even the Lincoln LS.. has this been confirmed? I can see that the upper ball joint boots are certainly bad I haven't been able to check for play in them yet. I'll try to get a video of this noise from riding in the car. its only noticeable on very rough roads at lower speeds. 20 - 30 mph

 

There is a real problem with these ball joints being non-serviceable in that they never even get looked at during a service except for the boot being undamaged, indeed there seems to be nothing in any service sheet to check they move freely. The only real way to check would be to release the ball joint from its taper, then check the ball joint as well as the swivel joints are moving and not seized or worn out.

I am coming to the conclusion that whilst 30-odd years ago it was OK to remove lubrication every service via grease nipples, and make these components "fit and forget", the very high mileages that cars get up to nowadays means this is no longer sustainable safety-wise, and perhaps re-greasing at intervals should be re-introduced. This, or alternatively going over to the aerospace principle of a "service, (or fatigue), life" which when reached enforces removal of the component, and its replacement by a new or known-good part. Nothing to stop the removed component being refurbished, of course, provided this is done properly with crack detection and assessment before being placed back into service.

 

If thats the inside of your front tires that wear from too little toe in. Of which they gave you even less toe in than you came in with. I would have gone for -.03/-.03 of which you were almost there to start with except for the left front. then pushed out to check deflection and it probobly moves out alot from suspension wear and tolerances. This is what it will do when driving causing inside tire wear. LOOK at the tires, that, and your BEFORE toe settings tells alot. That would be my "educated hypothesis" based on info and my experiances

 

I know the prior owner drove it extensively on his trip from flordia to Wisconsin with failing front air shocks.. I suspect this also caused the tire wear. The car feels much better after the alignment. Looks like someone cut open the boot on the inner tie rod and for some reason it wasn't replaced when the rack was rebuilt and inner and outer tie rods were replaced.. ����