As you know, there are a variety of clamps used on hoses of various sizes designed to transmit coolant, vacuum, etc. While not specific to manufacturer, this is a good list and description of the various types: https://www.atag-europe.com/en/detai...f-hose-clamps/

How important is it to use the same clamps as used originally? I count 4 different types. On the smaller diameter hoses, some use 2 clamps per nipple, others just one.

There are no worm gear clamps as best I recall except for a couple of large ones on the air intake elbow on the top of the throttle body.

If it is important to use the same as original, at least one special tool will be required. I would think that a worm gear clamp would be a good substitute for spring hose clamps, but I don't know for sure.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks & best,

Steve S.

 

Hi Steve,
In the 4.2 engine, there are many coolant hoses of different sizes. Apart from two worm-type clamps, one on the intake elbow, and one to the top of the throttle body, the others are spring-type clamps.
These clamps were good enough to pass all the type-testing and endurance testing of the engine and make it to the final product. There were no recalls and as far as I know, no changes during production. Many of the coolant hoses have plastic fittings and connectors. The original clamps seal the liquid in under pressure, but do not distort or damage the plastic fittings.
I have found, during the process of a supercharger and valley hose replacement that the original clamps work just fine. A previous owner had fitted worm clamps on some of the heater hose fittings, and they were all cracked. I had to replace the fittings and the clamps.
There is one proviso, however. You need to have the tool that remotely operates the spring clamp to open it. Many of the hoses are inaccessible to normal pliers of any shape. Only with this tool are all the hose clamps able to be removed and refitted. The tool is relatively inexpensive, but it will become your best friend and save many hours of frustration.

Remote spring hose clamp tool

Pete M

 

FWIW.. Lisle, (and probably K-D as well) our "usual suspects" for mechanics hand-tools, make what "should be" better-grade versions of those remote tools.

My (relatively) more expensive Lisle 17300:

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ose-clamp-tool

.... 'got a grip', but failed. As-in self-destructed.

Go figure the El Cheapo generic from Harbor Freight did not fail.

2CW

 

Thanks, Pete & Bill.
Pete, As I was getting ready to start the process of pulling the SC, I purchased a set of clamp removal tools & I made sure it included the remote because Pete recommended it. This was at least a month ago. Amazing how it goes when you're having fun!

Good to know about clamp success; this has been my experiece too; no clamps have failed.

I will send a photo of what appears to be ear clamps that are used on smaller hoses, sometimes with a spring clamp on the same nipple. I will need to learn where to purchase & where to get the tool & how to use it. I will send photo later today or tomorrow.

Best,

Steve S

 

"It's one of a variety of 'constant tension' hose clamps manufactured by NORMA. If I recall correctly, this pattern is known as the Cobra Spring Hose Clip.They are used on rubber hose to plastic cooling system components because they apply consistent pressure around the circumference unlike worm drive types which point load, can easily be overtightened and break the outlet.

See my post #7 in this thread for an illustration of how to open and close them:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pliers-77985/

You will see many posts advocating replacing these with worm drive. Although it is a solution, in engineering terms it is wrong."

The second listed Related Thread contained the answer. While I know I have this one, I believe I also have a similar one, too, without the clip. It is month. I will reaffirm and send a picture later.

 

65 years ago to about 20 years ago, I had learnt to replace 100% of what was "there" with "Ideal" worm-gear stainless. NON stainless worm-gear were nasty-rusty-booger-buggers.

https://www.idealtridon.com/about-us-245.html

Dunno who "Tridon" is, but I still call them "Ideal" clamps, regardless of maker!

Brits had a ubiquitous brand of their own, "Jubilee" and used their name for all clamps of the same worm-gear type, regardless of actual maker. Many Jubilee "clips", however, were/are Zinc-plated, not Stainless:

https://hcl-clamping.com/collections/jubilee-clips

...ergo more harmful than helpful. Anywhere.

There's how you tell a corroded Brit "clip" from a Stainless Septic "clamp"!
Not by a "clipped" British accent. It's all about how they hold their hoses!



Now only about 20% get "Idealed".

The "rubber" in use 'back in the day' didn't used to last even 1/3 as long as better elastomers do more recently, so we were doing new 3 or 4 times as often. A manual "nut driver" was less nuisance than hose clamp pliers.

A compact Milwaukee M-12 now does that, and can use flex extensions too.

For MOST work? Because it has a short section of stiff, fixed, curvature, under the "shoe" that holds the worm screw, a worm-gear clamp does not distribute the pressure as evenly as 360-degree-flexible spring clamps can do.

So mostly, ~ 80% - I retain those.... or swap for same-type, new.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pliers-77985/

 

I know you find it hard to believe! Forgive my confusion.

This is my story & I'm sticken to it:

The clips on the smaller hoses are the Norma clips described by Graham and others. The second "clip" was actually the marks made by the clip in its original position. It fooled me because it had left a silvery residue & since I wasn't really focusing on it, I didn't perceive it correctly.

Now that the teardown is complete, I will continue cleaning. Finished cleaning the numerous pieces of plastic & hit them with a "Black Restorer" - what a great difference! Will make a list of needed replacement hoses & clamps and gaskets; I plan to replce all, Will make a list from suggestions made previously of knock sensors, valve cover gaskets, etc. BTW, I see no indication that the valve covers are leaking,

Thanks for all of your help. I'm sure I'll be back soon.

Best,

Steve S.