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If your drivers inside door handle unlocks other doors before the vehicle starts to move, its micro switch must be OK. Therefore, the fault is more likely to be with the central locking/anti jacking system, which may be just a programming glitch. Before you pull the door apart, try a hard computer reset by disconnecting the cars battery with all doors unlocked.
This is exactly what has been puzzling me all along, because micro switch either works or not.
Actually there is one more thing: the door handle has two levers and only the small, upper one locks/unlocks all the doors before vehicle starts to move, whereas on the passenger door's both levers do the same job. I am not sure what is exactly the purpose of two levers.
I did a lot of experimenting over the past two days to try to establish the pattern and the best example would be this:
I stop at the traffic light (all doors locked at the beginning of a ride by the drive away function) none of the levers on my side open anything. I reach out to the passenger door's handle (any lever) or the button above screen and all door get unlocked. Once my door is unlocked I can operate its small lever (not the bigger one) to lock/unlock all doors. Once I set off, the drive away locks all doors and my door's levers are again inoperable.
Could there be also a fault in my door handle, apart from the computer glitch?
Anyway I am gonna search the forum for the computer reset instructions
If your drivers door handle can open your door before the drive away system activates, its cable must be connected OK. I am not sure of the purpose of the 2 door levers are on this model because I only ever used the larger lever for all opening/unlocking operations, but maybe the smaller lever is designed to lock individual doors?
Another possible cause of your problem may be a computer glitch in the 2 stage central unlocking system which can be configured to open just the drivers door, or all doors (with a second fob press).
I have to open my door for the same reason of this thread, but I'm confused by part numbers.
In this thread, I read C2C30696.
In the (vintage) parts cat I read C2C18939 for LH with power dead locks. ( What doesn this mean ?)
At eb*y, I find parts C2C30690, which seem to fit the same jag.
Is this all the same part ?
Part number depends on which door. I.e. the front drivers door contains an additional micro switch compared to the front passenger door. Also, this post referred to an Australian (right hand drive car), so be careful when ordering the part. If you are able to re-lube or repair the actuator, you wont need the part number:icon_cool
The power dead lock function prevents the door being unlocked from the inside as well as from the outside and is activated by pressing the fob button a second time if required (i.e. 2 presses).
I'll try to re-lube, but if I should break something, I don't want my door disassembled, waiting for spare parts. I'm a redundancy-guy, so I feel good with spare parts close by.
My rear offside (LHD) door actuator is dead. I keep it locked and can only open it from inside using the lever. The others work, except that my driver's door is intermittent; by this I mean that sometimes it unlocks immediately with the fob and sometimes I have to unlock, lock back up and then unlock again to get it to work? Also, my front passenger door locks itself despite me being in the car with my door and the nearside rear door unlocked (as I mentioned, the rear offside door is permanently locked)?
Now obviously, I am going to have to use this excellent original post to attack my rear offside door and perhaps my Driver's door too?
however, I am unsure which door to go at first.....Is the intermittent fault with my Driver's door linked to the malfunctioning rear offside? Is it sometimes refusing to open because the rear offside module is defective? Is my front passenger locking itself because it senses the locked rear offside?
As you can tell, I do not really understand how this system works and I would very much welcome a kindly supplied heads up!
I agree with your logic and would resolve the offside rear door locked problem first because I suspect also that the sensor within this actuator is signalling the central locking module to lock all doors. These door lock actuators ‘stick’ if their grease dries out, so can often be freed up with fresh lithium-based grease, rather than replaced.
Hopefully, the other door actuators will respond correctly when the central locking module is receiving 4 correct door signals, but you may need to reset the module, which I think, is to disconnect the battery with all doors closed but unlocked. Good luck!
Hello Henry,
Apologies for troubling you again.
My rear offside (LHD) door actuator appears to be connected to a mechanism attached to the outer skin of my door?
Also, how do I disconnect the power, please? I've tried the usual squeezing and pulling etc?
I have attached a brief video to (hopefully) show you what I am talking about......
Unfortunately I have no idea what I am to separate or how to do so? I am hoping that IF I can get the actuator out of its tight little crevice, I will be better able to see how to disconnect it; at the moment I think I can feel a clip on ONE of the plugs (there appears to be two), but it will not budge.
Meirion1, I am stuck, please help! I cannot even get in there enough to take a decent photo for you!!
Is that the clip you refer to in the centre/bottom, please? If so, how do I release it?
If this is the two-part clip to which you refer, do I simply slide the Actuator down and off of the end of the metal rod? Do I slide the white clip to the left - Towards us in the picture below? There appears to be some sort of bolt with its head under the white plastic cover and going through to the other side?
Henry, I followed your excellent instructions and (after a few cul-de-sacs) I managed to get the Actuator out and its cover off. I cleaned it and greased it, but when I reconnected it to its power plugs I could not test it because all I got was the 'chirp' from the boot to tell me that I was trying to lock/unlock an open door? However, there really does not appear to be any life in this Actuator, not so much as a click or hum from it?
All of my other doors work?
Henry, please do I replace it or could there be any other reason for its lifelessness?
The electric motor has had it. All of these actuators look basically the same. The Jag seems to used the same or very similar cheap motor used on Hyundais; a £200 part containing £5 worth of parts: