You can use fuel hose, for smaller diameter, simple shaped, coolant hoses.
Discovered this decades ago, while working on motorcycles, & Honda cars.
Less expensive than the factory hoses

 

Hi MBJAG,
It may be too late, but could you possibly consider replacing those worm hose clips with the correct factory spring ones?
They can be a pain to fit without the remote operating hose clamp pliers, but they never get loose, you can't overtighten them, and they don't damage the hose. I found that my PO had used a worm clip on a plastic fitting, and the uneven pressure and the brittleness that comes with age led to the plastic disintegrating.
When I replaced my supercharger, I used all the original hose clips and have had no leaks.

Pete M

 

Ditto what Pete said: use the OE spring clamps everywhere you can

(Steel worm-screw hose clamps - AKA "aviation hose clamps" - are handy as hell for doing just about anything other than clamping hoses. They make great mechanical clamps for odd shaped things, but tend to ruin hoses and leak)

 

Thank you guys. I think the intake was already installed. The mechanic is my friend from many many years, any future leaking (years ahead) will be covered by “friendship warranty” 😂😂 Will check on this this morning and let you know.

Old bushings.









I also dedided to replace the bushings and paint the calipers. Both Arnott shocks had a broken screw, remember this car was totalled when it hit a curve. Damage consisted on a bended front fender, scratched bumper, broken headlight and a screw on each shock. Yes, it was totalled just for that. Instead of replacing the shocks we decided to weld a new screw on the shocks. Will let you know how it works.

 

I noticed this cooland hose was in a really bad condition and decided to replace it. After several phone calls the only place that have it is a JLR dealer. Part will arrive this Monday.

 

The leak was fixed and new bushings at front ..... made me $ 1,600 poorer. $ 1k labor, $500 in parts:

Parts:

• Radiator hose $ 135.00
• 2 Front control arm bushings $ 81.90
• Intake manifold gasket kit $ 48.93
• 2 Inner control arm bushings $ 82.00
• Caliper paint $ 12.00
• Coolant $ 32.00
• T-connector $ 9.50
• 8 hose clamps $ 10.00
• Colant hose $ 22.00

Labor:

• Check for coolant leak, R & R intake manifold, replace the hoses, install new connector, replace upper radiator hose, fill up with coolant, check for leaks $ 485.00
• Replace all bushings on front control arms $ 425.00
• Clean and paint all calipers $ 140.00
• Along front end $ 69.95

Conclusion: This project just went overbudget. The car is a sweet to drive so I´ll give it a chance but my patience is not forever.

 

Finally we could find the tray tables locks that cracked when we refinished the interior. FoMoCo part number 2W930F610E16-A_PIA003

 

The never ending story, now I replaced the rotors and brake pads. The pads where still good but the rotors were bended. $ 300 for parts, $ 200 labor.

 

Hi everybody, I'm back. Since last November I had done all these things to this money pit:

• Replace air cleaner hose.
• 2 front control arms.
• 2 front outer tie rod ends.
• 2 rear sway bar end links.
• 2 lower ball joints.
• 1 left knuckle.
• 2 front sway bar end links.

... and the car still clunks over potholes and makes a clunk noise when turning. The cluncking is felt under the firewall area. I think I'll have to life with it. Any advice is welcomed.







The previous rotors were warped, my mechanic put new ones at no cost.

The previous rotors were warped, my mechanic put new ones at no cost.

This thing is costing me more money than a harem in Brunei.

"Old" rotors, warped since new. Returned to the seller.

Is it possible that the Arnott coil struts are the cause of the clunking?

 

Switch sides, to see if noise follows the shock

 

I would check the torque on your suspension components. Especially the control arms (top 35 lb ft & lower 129 lb ft). Reason I say this is because I changed my entire suspension a few years ago then went to the dealer and got it aligned. Everything had been fine until recently. Haven't driven it enough to wear anything out so what changed? well, not long ago I put on a set of Michelin Cross Climate2 tires and went to the dealer for another alignment. Didn't notice anything at first as It was a short highway ride to and from the dealer and the car set dormant for awhile. Once I started driving it again I started hearing clunks around town. At first over speed bumps, small holes, etc. Then while making a sharp left turn I hit a small pothole and it made a very loud clunk, almost sounded like the wheel was about to come off. The next free day I had up on ramps it went. Checked the air springs, all fine. Ball joints fine, tie rods good, lower control arm locknuts... one 75ft lbs and the other... 35 ft lbs! That would explain the clunks. Absolutely incredible it left the dealer like this. But now, no more clunks. Sad thing is I need a new alignment. Next time, no radio on and only side streets home afterwards.

 

Hello fellas, Season 6, Episode 1. After coming back from a trip (again) I found a spot under leaky Jinxie. It was from a L shaped power steering hose. The dealer asked $ 180.00 for that tiny spare so my mechanic "created" our own for a total cost of $ 44.00. The started had been acting like my wife when I don't know what she did just said, some times it worked perfectly other it just made an electric noise, so I replaced it. The last two sets of front brake discs came warped from the spare parts supply, so we installed a new set at no cost, I returned the Textar pads... those things covered the front wheels with powder after just a 50 mile drive. New pads are installed, Akebono pads... for free. Anyway I'm $ 800.00 poorer... again.

• Starter $ 295.00
• Power steering hose $ 44.00
• Fitting $ 8.95
• Hose clamps $ 6.00
• Power steering fluid $ 14.00
• Front Akebono pads: $ 0.00
• Front brake rotors: $ 0.00
• Labor: 432.00

Total cost of ownership (since November 2021) including the cost of the car: $ 18,118.00

Suspension still clunks a little when turning a corner, all the parts are new except the Arnott struts, I´ll give them some time.

 

I saw you worked on and had the front struts out. I might have missed it but did you replace the top strut mounts?
Might be the noise you hear from the fire wall?
.
.
.

 

Nope, how do they look like?

 

Episode 2. One of the HID went off. I bought a 6k lumens set at Amazon, $ 25.00. Good reviews. Then.... British engineering. You have to take out the whole bumper to replace the bulbs. First, take out the grille, then the bumper with all the washers and electric connections.... I have sausage fingers like the new King so I was afraid to take the bumper by myself, and disassemble the ugly mesh I put on a while ago. $ 200 bucks with my mechanic, and hour and a half of labor. Daytime running lights? Not anymore. Those bulbs will last forever since I never drive at night... cigars and Cuba Libres at the pool are the staples of my evenings. How hard was to give some space to replace a consumable item (two inches would be enough). By the way, my wife's Grand Cherokee is the same p,i.a.

 

Hi FreeWifi, could you elaborate a bit more on the torques? Are you saying that you attributed the 'clunks' to wrong torques on the lower control arm locknuts? If so, what is the correct torque for those? I have a 2009 VDP and just put on Michelin Primacy Touring tires and the alignment appears fine, the car drives in a straight line when letting go of the steering wheel (don't know if that's the accurate way of a need for an alignment or what), but I just feel that my Jag should handle those nagging little cracks/ruts in the old asphalt roads should be a lot quieter. The air suspension is working fine but I feel something about the overall suspension should make that car drive much more softer than it is. Mind you, I say the air susp is fine cause all 4 levels are the same BUT do they 'stiffen' over time? Does the computer need an adjustment to the ride in the air suspension? Comments most welcome. Oh, the car has 31000 miles on it, no accidents. I am in a moderate Detroit climate so extreme heat on the rubber components shouldn't be a factor I hope.

 

My issues was when doing the alignment they loosen the bolts to adjust caster and camber. Evidently they loosened them a lot and did not torque to spec.



This is to be torqued to 175 NM or 129 lb-ft. After hearing a very loud clunk while simultaneously turning and hitting a bump, I put the car on ramps and checked all the suspension. The bolt as in the pic above was a little more than hand tight. Nowhere near the amount required. Once torqued - no more clunk but also probably not exactly aligned correctly but I will have to get it done out of town as I am not sure I can trust the local dealer again.

The workshop "chassis" manual found here has all the torques you need. If all the air springs, bushings, wheel bearings, ball joints etc. are in good shape and the car is aligned correctly, it will glide down the road. It should not clunk or creak even going over speed bumps.