Intermittent ticking even when engine off and ignition key out
#21
Mac Allan,
Respectfully, it is actually known that happens when XJs when you disconnect the battery. I've read it also on many forums about and it is normal. So there is nothing wrong with my car just because the battery is disconnected. In fact, all Jaguars dealer shops and independent shops that serviced my car use a plugin a battery backup that plugs into the OBDII portal to prevent loss of learned idle/rpm settings - that's what they all told me. So, this is not the issue, so please don't get confused.
Respectfully, it is actually known that happens when XJs when you disconnect the battery. I've read it also on many forums about and it is normal. So there is nothing wrong with my car just because the battery is disconnected. In fact, all Jaguars dealer shops and independent shops that serviced my car use a plugin a battery backup that plugs into the OBDII portal to prevent loss of learned idle/rpm settings - that's what they all told me. So, this is not the issue, so please don't get confused.
#22
Mac Allan,
Respectfully, it is actually known that happens when XJs when you disconnect the battery. I've read it also on many forums about and it is normal. So there is nothing wrong with my car just because the battery is disconnected. In fact, all Jaguars dealer shops and independent shops that serviced my car use a plugin a battery backup that plugs into the OBDII portal to prevent loss of learned idle/rpm settings - that's what they all told me. So, this is not the issue, so please don't get confused.
Respectfully, it is actually known that happens when XJs when you disconnect the battery. I've read it also on many forums about and it is normal. So there is nothing wrong with my car just because the battery is disconnected. In fact, all Jaguars dealer shops and independent shops that serviced my car use a plugin a battery backup that plugs into the OBDII portal to prevent loss of learned idle/rpm settings - that's what they all told me. So, this is not the issue, so please don't get confused.
I understand that the adaptations are lost, but those are minor variations and quickly relearned. They shouldn't lead to a no-run situation, and I've never experienced anything like that on my X350. However, I'm certainly open to correction.
#23
Regarding the idle adaptions here are the factory workshop procedures for having the car relearn after battery disconnect:
Hope that is helpful.
5. Start the engine and allow to idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
6. Switch the engine off.
7. Restart the engine and allow to idle for approximately two minutes (this will allow the ECM to learn the idle values).
8. Apply and hold the brake pedal, select drive and allow the engine to idle for a further two minutes.
9. Drive the vehicle for approximately five miles/eight kilometers of varied driving to enable the ECM to complete it's learning strategy.
6. Switch the engine off.
7. Restart the engine and allow to idle for approximately two minutes (this will allow the ECM to learn the idle values).
8. Apply and hold the brake pedal, select drive and allow the engine to idle for a further two minutes.
9. Drive the vehicle for approximately five miles/eight kilometers of varied driving to enable the ECM to complete it's learning strategy.
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FriendlyJagXJ8L (11-04-2023)
#24
I mean the car will run, just the idle and revving has to be relearned. Anyways, I'm not concerned about this issue at all. Just the ticking noise. I'll try disconnecting the battery cables with the back-up battery in place first and see if this clears the ticking noise. Thanks for your suggestion Mac Allan.
#25
I mean the car will run, just the idle and revving has to be relearned. Anyways, I'm not concerned about this issue at all. Just the ticking noise. I'll try disconnecting the battery cables with the back-up battery in place first and see if this clears the ticking noise. Thanks for your suggestion Mac Allan.
I'd have to look at the schematic to see whether or not that will completely shut off power to the Climate Control Module because that's what you want. Just as the ECM 'forgets' the idle adaptations with battery disconnected, we want to see if your Climate Control Module will reset the servo feedback parameters.
Good luck.
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philc850 (04-14-2016)
#26
Mac Allan, I disconnected the positive and negative battery cables and touched them together for more than 30 seconds per your suggestion. Then turned on the engine. I think you and the quote you pasted about a blend door actuators searching for correct position is right that it might have something to do with the servo feedback parameters and/or control blend door actuators because I don't hear the ticking noise since I did not turn on the Climate Control at all when I first turned on the engine and drove the car but when I turn the Climate Control on and/or turn it off after that, I do hear the ticking noise. So, disconnecting both battery cables didn't reset the Climate Control Motors/servos. I hope resetting the Climinate Control Module servo feedback will cure the problem. Changing the climate control blend actuators sounds very expensive as they have to go deep inside the car like dismantle the dashboard or go through the engine bay area and it's very tight in there.
#28
You need to remove both F1 and F28 (both 10A) in the passenger (cabin) fuse box to ensure you de-power the Climate Control Module.
However one of them goes dead when the ignition switches off and the other should go dead about half an hour after the car is left alone (ie no doors or trunk lid opened, nor any internal lights operated). The easy way to check if the timed supply is shuttling down is to leave one of the map lights on and just looking through the window, no remote nor key nor door operation, look to see if it's gone out by say an hour later.
However one of them goes dead when the ignition switches off and the other should go dead about half an hour after the car is left alone (ie no doors or trunk lid opened, nor any internal lights operated). The easy way to check if the timed supply is shuttling down is to leave one of the map lights on and just looking through the window, no remote nor key nor door operation, look to see if it's gone out by say an hour later.
Last edited by Partick the Cat; 04-14-2016 at 11:44 AM.
#29
F1 - 10A
F28 - 10A
The module should have reset when you disconnected the battery and touched the leads, but pulling the fuses is worth a try. You'll have to wait for the capacitors to drain to fully reset the module.
While you are waiting, put the key in and see if you still have the ticking. That might help narrow things down.
EDIT - Oops like Patrick the Cat beat to to it.
Last edited by Mac Allan; 04-14-2016 at 11:54 AM.
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philc850 (04-14-2016)
#30
#31
#32
No one has really asked the question yet, but...
If this is a "problem" many of us are having, and can't seem to identify how to fix it, is it really a problem? Could it be just normal behavior that only a select group of us with a crazy attention to detail even hear or notice?
Just a thought.
If this is a "problem" many of us are having, and can't seem to identify how to fix it, is it really a problem? Could it be just normal behavior that only a select group of us with a crazy attention to detail even hear or notice?
Just a thought.
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philc850 (04-15-2016)
#33
MrWest, My thoughts are that I didn't hear this noise before and I've the car for over two and half years. I just started to hear it recently last few weeks. I am not sure if it is/was a problem and I can ignore the noise as it is not loud but I want to check it out if it happens to be a prelude to a more serious expensive repair problem and/or where I may get stuck in the middle of nowhere. It sometimes sounds like a noise similar to when a starter is trying to crank the engine but with not enough power even though the engine is already running or even moving. I was also thinking if I were to sell the car, the potential buyer would probably ask me what that ticking noise is and I want to be able to answer his/her question or at least fix it to either keep the car or before I sell it. I would feel guilty if I dump any headache to another person.
Last edited by philc850; 04-15-2016 at 11:34 AM.
#36
MacAllan, both - ticking is still there after I pulled both fuses overnight and reinserted them in the morning and it is still there after unplugging the positive and negative battery cables and joining them together to do a hard reset but it did not alleviate the ticking either. Because someone recently commented that maybe it's just crazy attention to detail, I stayed in the car today with the ignition off, key out of the ignition and climate control off (climate control wasn't actually turned on at all ever) and it was strangely ticking quite noticeably, not just my imagination. Is it possible the clock is acting up maybe, but isn't the clock and quartz clock and I shouldn't be hearing any ticking at all either?
Last edited by philc850; 04-15-2016 at 02:11 PM.
#37
MacAllan, both - ticking is still there after I pulled both fuses overnight and reinserted them in the morning and it is still there after unplugging the positive and negative battery cables and joining them together to do a hard reset but it did not alleviate the ticking either. Because someone recently commented that maybe it's just crazy attention to detail, I stayed in the car today with the ignition off, key out of the ignition and climate control off (climate control wasn't actually turned on at all ever) and it was strangely ticking quite noticeably, not just my imagination. Is it possible the clock is acting up maybe, but isn't the clock and quartz clock and I shouldn't be hearing any ticking at all either?
So, it sounds like you can eliminate the Climate Control servos as being the source of the ticking. If you turned the car on with both fuses removed and the ticking was still there.
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philc850 (04-16-2016)
#38
Just briefly - don't connect any power source to your diagnostic port or you can damage your car. Some diagnostic testers have external power ports, but they will be isolated from the car. The workshop manual states that you must only connect battery chargers/conditioners between the positive battery stud and the earth stud that connects to the negative battery terminal. Your ECU (and various other modules like the TCM) store learnt parameters for adaptions to gain optimum engine performance, etc, over time but they will quickly be relearnt if they are cleared either by hard resetting the module (disconnection) or through programming. You will not cause any physical harm by doing so - if your car shows any symptoms then that is a sign that something else is wrong that needs to be addressed.
Back to the sound - I have had various cabin noises in my cars so can try and suggest if it sounds familiar to one of them. Unfortunately the file you uploaded doesn't want to play for me. Are you able to upload it to youtube so I can hear it? In addition to your sewing machine description, can you describe the speed and volume (compared to say normal speaking). If possible also whether you think it is a solenoid/relay ticking or a rotational hitting sound. I can't work out from your updates if it will do it just by unlocking and entering the car without inserting the key into the barrel?
To rule out a common noise with the X350s, are you sure it is not the little fan that blows air through a small square vent below the steering wheel? You can easily tell by placing your hand over the vent to block it and see if the sound changes. That fan will be active before ignition, and I recall will stay on fo a short while even when the key is removed if the driver's door has not been opened.
It is dead centre in this photo (disclaimer: not my photo)
As you are shown in California I am assuming your car is LHD. Put the car in a state where the noise is occuring and the car is in a safe engine-off, parkbrake-on state. Please remove the carpet covers from above each footwell (they are clipped on), move each seat fully backwards and pop your head into your passenger footwell and pointing it forwards can you tell if the sound is coming from the left, right or above you (and also if it is any clearer from that position). If it is coming from the left (centre or driver side) please repeat from the driver side footwell. That would help to narrow down the location amongst the various modules, fans, motors and sensors installed inside the dash and lower A-pillars.
Back to the sound - I have had various cabin noises in my cars so can try and suggest if it sounds familiar to one of them. Unfortunately the file you uploaded doesn't want to play for me. Are you able to upload it to youtube so I can hear it? In addition to your sewing machine description, can you describe the speed and volume (compared to say normal speaking). If possible also whether you think it is a solenoid/relay ticking or a rotational hitting sound. I can't work out from your updates if it will do it just by unlocking and entering the car without inserting the key into the barrel?
To rule out a common noise with the X350s, are you sure it is not the little fan that blows air through a small square vent below the steering wheel? You can easily tell by placing your hand over the vent to block it and see if the sound changes. That fan will be active before ignition, and I recall will stay on fo a short while even when the key is removed if the driver's door has not been opened.
It is dead centre in this photo (disclaimer: not my photo)
As you are shown in California I am assuming your car is LHD. Put the car in a state where the noise is occuring and the car is in a safe engine-off, parkbrake-on state. Please remove the carpet covers from above each footwell (they are clipped on), move each seat fully backwards and pop your head into your passenger footwell and pointing it forwards can you tell if the sound is coming from the left, right or above you (and also if it is any clearer from that position). If it is coming from the left (centre or driver side) please repeat from the driver side footwell. That would help to narrow down the location amongst the various modules, fans, motors and sensors installed inside the dash and lower A-pillars.
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philc850 (04-16-2016)
#39
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On our '04 XJR for the past 6 months or so I've had a similar sound emanating from the console near the J-gate. MrWest's description matches what I'm hearing. I haven't opened up the console to see what's going on, but I thought the location of our sound might help others pinpoint theirs.
Cheers,
Don
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philc850 (04-16-2016)
#40
On our '04 XJR for the past 6 months or so I've had a similar sound emanating from the console near the J-gate. MrWest's description matches what I'm hearing. I haven't opened up the console to see what's going on, but I thought the location of our sound might help others pinpoint theirs.
Cheers,
Don
Cheers,
Don
Don,
Do you have rear passenger climate control?
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philc850 (04-16-2016)