Jaguar XJ8 2004 Timing Chain replacement question about positioning
#1
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Trying to find how to make the cam sprocket line up with cam during re-assembly?
Went through extreme pain to get the damn Harmonic Balancer off (actually bought new Harmonic Balancer and sleeve for it) and decided to pull the water pump off and buy a new one since I was already down into this.
Getting ready to put everything back on and was wondering if there is a specific positioning indicators since I am unsure if the chain jumped on me. The car had a Retarded Bank 2 code and we are replacing everything associated with the timing Chain system (got a $500 kit on line including tensioners, etc.). Rented the $300 Timing tool kit online, but wanted to see if there is a positioning measurement that needs to be done prior to putting it all back together if we are replacing every chain anyways? I know locking it down to the current setting to make sure your timing is correct if you are removing just a few of the parts, but if you are putting them all back together, does the prior positioning really matter since you are locking the cam anyways as you put each chain back on? Was expecting some positioning notches.
The 6500 page Jaguar manual doesn't seem to reference any positioning concerns of the prior settings. The workshop manual just seems to be concerned about using the camshaft setting tool (which I have) and just mentions the secondary timing chain should be free to rotate. They way I read this is the prior settings don't seem to matter as long as you lock them one at a time as you go through the re-assembly process.
Am I incorrect?
-Jessie
2001 XK8
2004 XJ8
#3
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The V8's don't use timing marks when changing the timing chains. There are special tools you install, one to lock the flywheel in place, and the cam lock down tools. Then you just swap the chains, tensioners and guides. It looks like in the picture on the left side like you have the cam lock down tool in place, but not one on the right side where your rachet is.
As long as you installed the flywheel lock pin in place, this pin is quite critical, because the crank bolts on these have a high torque spec because there is no keyway on the crank. You also run the risk of damaging the VVT unit. Make sure the flat spots of the cams facing upwards when putting the flywheel pin in, or it will be "180" out. and installl the cam lock down tools. As I stated before, the V8's don't using timing marks or notches, it's the V6's that you have to line up timing marks, and the earlier inline 6 engines that use notches. As long as you leave the tools in place, just swap out the timing chains, guides and tensioners, and put it all back together. Make sure you torque the bolts that hold on the cam sprockets properly, and the crank pulley bolt as well. If you don't have the torque specs, they should be on here somewhere, otherwise, I can look it up for you, just let me know.
In this rental kit, did you get a pin to lock the flywheel in place?
As long as you installed the flywheel lock pin in place, this pin is quite critical, because the crank bolts on these have a high torque spec because there is no keyway on the crank. You also run the risk of damaging the VVT unit. Make sure the flat spots of the cams facing upwards when putting the flywheel pin in, or it will be "180" out. and installl the cam lock down tools. As I stated before, the V8's don't using timing marks or notches, it's the V6's that you have to line up timing marks, and the earlier inline 6 engines that use notches. As long as you leave the tools in place, just swap out the timing chains, guides and tensioners, and put it all back together. Make sure you torque the bolts that hold on the cam sprockets properly, and the crank pulley bolt as well. If you don't have the torque specs, they should be on here somewhere, otherwise, I can look it up for you, just let me know.
In this rental kit, did you get a pin to lock the flywheel in place?
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