Hello
I have sold unfortunately my xj350 which wasn't a good idea, but I got now a new offer xj350 2006 4.2 only 80thm FSH, but the car stood nearly years and now the engine won't turn it may click may not and the gear leaver stuck in P I can't check this it's an auction sale no Copart and too far away I assume it can only be a defect starter motor /solenoid because I left my jag also 1.5 year in storage, and it starts immediately but why does the gear leaver stack the jag self looks like new what are your thoughts thanks jean

 

My first thought is figure out punctuation! Geez, that was hard to read!

Wouldn't be remotely interested in a car that sat for years, unless I wanted to actually strip it and rebuild it as a project. Never for a car I hoped to just get a "deal" on.

 

Just how many years did it set anyway?
Mice love to nest in unused vehicles.
Chewing wires, & pissing everywhere.
Good luck to you

 

+1 as to what wfooshee has said.

Very little to go on here with respect to the car or your own perceptions, expectations or capability to work on this potential undertaking.

Cosmetically, is the body and paintwork excellent or needing corrections?
Interior OK, leather good, exterior and interior plastics and dash still good, head lining dropped yet?
Are the tyres and alloys good?

You will likely need a new battery, as they tend to last 4-5 years on a regularly used vehicle and definitely suffer when sitting for any time in storage.
Any low voltage on these cars makes them throw all sorts of errors and odd behavioral issues.
Expect that at 80,000+ miles you will be having to go through it to do all of the usual periodic maintenance just to bring it up to a known starting point.
I am assuming you will not get much in the way of any prior service history to know what has and hasn't been done on the car, or what current faults it may have, otherwise you would have added that info into your initial post.

That probably means you will be wise to undertake a minimum maintenance consumable change of:-

• Battery (if old and weak)
• spark plugs (if original set)
• Air filter and cabin filter change
• Engine oil and filter change
• transmission oil and filter change
• possible diff oil change
• water system check ( expect some to have some hoses with soft spots, or evidence of leaks at hose connections, water pump, aux water pump, expansion tank).

That consumable list alone may very well set you back nearly 800-1000 GBP plus any hoses and labour if you are outsourcing the work. As you are in a larger market, parts and consumable prices may be cheaper than we see over here, and you likely don't have the huge freight costs as well.

Then you are checking the running gear:-

• brakes (disc and pad condition)
• suspension bushings and links (you will likely have worn bushings front and or rear that need replacement as the rubber bushing fail with mileage and also just with age even on low mileage cars). You can easily spend several thousand doing a suspension joint and bushing refresh front and back.
• air suspension (if the air suspension is leaking down excessively or not leveling the car properly you can be into several thousand pounds to repair/replace failed components, or converting car to an alternative non-air suspension). Fair to say that the air suspension system seems to give less issues (or less reported) for members in the UK, AUS and NZ, but is a regular subject of discussion and distress among the north american forum members.

Basically you will be buying a car that will in all actuality need quite a bit initially spent to just get back on the road as a somewhat known entity, then you will be gauging whether it will be a decent car or an ongoing money pit depending on what it reveals as you start to rack up some mileage.
With that said, if you intend to do much of the maintenance and repair work yourself like most members here do, then it may be something you might consider if you have the time, workspace and tools. If you can get some service history or any current fault information to help shape your initial purchase decision as to whether it is a good price with some decent safety margin in your budget for what will be inevitable work.
If however you do not intend to do maintenance and general repairs yourself, instead opting to send it to the mechanic every time, or are hoping to just spend a thousand to get it on the road and have little ongoing maintenance, then this car may very well not be for you.

 

Hello

​​​​​just to clarify the jag sit nearly 2years the car is in perfect condition nearly new even with 80thm interior like new not any mark, the headliner like new, a new battery is fitted
but nothing happened no turn of engine and the gear leaver stack in P not possible to get them out of P that's in my opinion the major issue cheers jean

 

Check the inertia switch hasn't been triggered by someone transporting the vehicle either by towing or trailering it to or from storage. Inertia switch could possibly get tripped during loading /unloading from a trailer or flat deck.
You can press and reset the inertia cutout with your finger via the small access hole in the left hand A pillar panel in the foot well.

Failing that you are probably looking at a diagnostic challenge to work out if it is the car's security systems not recognizing the appropriate key, or any number of other faults that will inhibit the ECM from letting the car crank.
This is where it could get expensive fast if you are not able to diagnose and repair the car yourself.
Who did you have repairing and maintaining your previous x350 if you weren't doing that work yourself?

 

Hello

Yes that could be an option to check the inertia ss

 

Typing by ear is an art.

 

Give the starter motor a gentle tap with a hammer as it sounds like you have a sticking starter, or it could be dead.

 

I just replaced the starter in my "Jynxie the Money Pit": $ 295 part, $ 200 labor. Tap it with the hammer first and try the "killer" switch.