Hey everyone,

Went in for an alignment and on the alignment rack the tech showed me how there was major play in the rear lower arm bushing, I have the X350 workshop manual and it says that a special ball joint separator tool is required to get the ball joint end of the arm to separate....

Anyone do this without the tool? Dont want to dive all the way in to this without being able to free the ball joint.

Also if you have any other tips for carrying out this job please let me know!

ALoha

 

Just did front shock work on my XJR that required removing the upper ball joint. No separator war required. Did need metric allen wrench to hold the stud. Ball joint separators are available for loan at the major chain auto stores for free. Not sure if that is a true in Hawaii. You need to be careful not to damage the grease seal if you do use one.

Let me be the first to offer my repair skills firsthand if you provide transportation to you car!

RyeJag

 

thanks ryejag,

I actually just swapped the shocks on my XJR as well so I know about the upper control arm and how its easy to break free, I should have been more clear but I am speaking of the lower balljoint on the opposite end of the big bushing that I'm replacing. Its the rearward front control arm (straight arm) & thanks for the tip about not damaging the boot! I've gotten away without using a separator before by banging on the surrounding area but I was working on a truck, not an aluminum part like the control arm.

 

You could try a couple of kettles of boiling water on it. This will make the aluminium arm expand and it may make releasing the tapered joint easier. However you really do need the tool to release these things. The aluminium of the arm is easily damaged by hammering it to release the taper, which is the alternative "non special tool" method. Damage to an aluminium are could be such as to start a crack forming leading to catastrophic failure some time later.

 

Hey Fraser,

Appreciate the advice! I will be picking up a ball joint separator as I definitely don't want to crack the aluminum arm if the boiling water tip doesn't do it....

Also, the big nut and bolt that goes through the rearward front lower control arm(straight arm) bushing is in a tight stop since the inner tie rod is right up against it can't even seem to get a socket on it.... only an open end wrench will fit in there, hopefully that doesn't give me too much trouble its the last bolt I need to get out to release the arm