Leo,
My reply is two-fold. First, I don't know how, but it appears that I missed your post (#50) completely as I've (or so I thought) responded to all posts in some fashion or another and I don't see that I did to yours. As I have it set to email me immediately, I guess I missed that one when I was going through them and you have my apologies for that.

Secondly, I did not perform the steps you entailed and would certainly have done so when I had the back half ripped apart! lol. I rode the Harley today to give the Jag a 24 hour rest so i can check it cold tonight. I will make the checks you recommended to identify (HOPEFULLY) or rule out (still a result) before starting her so that a cold test will still be an option in either case. If your suggestions show the issue and the cold start has the compressor kicking on, the credit will go solely on that as I've done several cold starts in the recent past to no avail. On a related note, I have a soldering iron and solder. How hard would it be?

As Don said; I must echo, our collective thoughts will allow us to prevail. I've added a few, in my opinion, helpful posts to other threads as I feel, at the very least, obligated to give back what I can to areas that I actually have first-hand knowledge, suggestions, and solutions for. I hope to continue to do so as folks like you continue to do for me. Once again, I find myself awaiting 5PM to get home and get testing! Thanks again!

 

Leo et all,
In reading through your replies to mine and other's posts, I came across one enticing tidbit... And, I have, what I can only construe as a confession to make. But, not in the manner of an intentional omission or falsehood, just an unintentional oversight that I didn't feel had enough relevance as it was mitigated in the meantime. Here's the segment of the post I'm referring to:

"But who is responsible for the death of R7 ?
A loose connection of a defective clamp on the minus pole is under suspicion." (I was unable to copy over the pic of the neg battery cable clamp, so I just attached it)

I disconnected the neg battery cable clamp from the terminal a couple days after I got the car to do something that escapes my memory ATM. When I went to tighten the clamp up, I noticed the clamp, about half way through the loop, was split completely leaving a faulty connection, at best. As I didn't have a spare cable in my pocket, I got out my trusty zip ties and tightened a few on the clamp to keep is solidly in place for the time being. I ordered another cable and it came FedEx two days later and installed it. To the best of my recollection, since the initial zip ties and subsequent replacement, I've yet to see the Air Suspension Fault (ASF) return. That did not surprise me as I suspected it would take a couple days, at least, for it to return. As there there was only a couple days between each event, I do not have a valid report to give. As the replacement cable was installed on Saturday morning (two days ago), I feel I would be remiss if I did not give the car a week to come to terms with the ground, no ground, ground, no ground, etc to determine if the ASF will return to my dashboard. As this is Monday around noon, EST, my patience is about to be tested even more.

I still have the CATS System Fault (CSF) appearing as recent as yesterday (Sunday), so the JLR OBD2 systems I ordered will not be vain if not for that purpose alone as well as future needs, what ever they may entail. It will, hopefully, concur the events of the removal of the neg cable and reconnection with my zip ties and then the removal and install of the replacement neg cable. Perhaps it just needs to have them cleared from the memory so it can, essentially say, "OK, I'm square now, run on Jaguar!"

I still intend to do the testing on the rear box, #12, R7, ASM, etc, but I won't fiddle with the ground. I have already sourced a few replacement Rear Power Distro Fuse Boxes from eBay for $180 that I can get that hasn't had the fuses and relays stripped from it already. Hoping it won't come to that, but if necessary, I guess I'll do what I must...

Thanks again to all and I would SINCERELY appreciate the feedback regarding the negative battery cable clamp and how/if it relates to my problem (meaning do you think it killed R7 if the tests show #12 not getting 12v).

I would like to add for those who have read this post or the entire thread, I am a member of the Military Jag group and the Jags of Virginia group on here and am offering the use of my JLR ODB2 to folks near me. Just ask. I will not ask for compensation, but I can say that a 12-pack of Blue Moon or Killian's would not go unappreciated! lol

 

Jason, sorry, I'm in a hurry: Please make no investments until we, all of us, identified the defect device. Overvoltage caused by rotten clamps and rusted earth-ground points destroyed about 5 to 6 controllers of my XJR in the 7 years I own it. In this recent case, the diagnosis of british car service cost me just about 70 US$. Regards

 

Good to hear you might have found what caused the troubles. A diagnostic tool is always handy.

Guus

 

- Turn ignition on
- Connect a multimeter between fuse 12 of the rear power distribution fuse box and the negative pole of the battery.
- Make sure that the fuse carries a current of +12V.
I found that 12v was present. 14v+ with the engine running

If there is no current on fuse 12, congratulations, you found the cause of all this mess.
(There was)

If there is +12V on it, you can exclude (more or less) the rear power distribution fuse box from the list of potential culprits.
(Excluded)

Next step will be a check of the ASM. The output of fuse 12 of the rear power distribution fuse box goes into PIN 2 of connector CR88 of the ASM and triggers the ASM to stance mode.
I just do not feel like taking the rear seat out of the car tonight. The Mrs has prepared a good family dinner in which we'll use the dining table and I don't feel up to getting nasty just before supper, or have to break up my work for supper, so that'll have to wait until tomorrow, I think. I may just get a wild hair & go for it anyway.

Of course CR88-2 should carry +12V as well when ignition is on.
I will certainly be checking Mr 88 as soon as I'm in there!

 

Wild hair - Check
Power to CR88 - Check (engine running)

 

Hi Jason,

good that you did not remove the backseat last night, there might be some more to do...
A faulty connection of a defective battery clamp points to overvoltage that went into one of the active controller modules at that time.
In my case, the failure of R7 was sporadic first for some weeks, than constant.
That sounds like a sporadic failure of any device, cable or ground point.
Usually the OBDII throws fault codes when the instrument cluster displays error messages.
Concerning R7, the resulting fault codes came up when R7 switched +12V to fuse 12 and the ASM and CATS started up, but when R7 failed the codes have not been stored and vanished.
So please try and use your new code scanner when there is an error message displayed in the dashboard.

Check of the ASM:
If you have to open (or close) a connector to be checked, disconnect the battery first. The ASM is in any working mode for 24h after you turn off ignition.
Make sure the chassis needs to be lifted (a little).
If you plan to drive the car, loose the 2 connectors of the air hoses to the struts on the higher side (left or right) until you hear a hiss, then fix them not too tight.
If you don't plan to drive, letting a short hiss of air out of one front connector is sufficient.

Then for about 2 minutes after you started the engine PIN 12 of connector CR91 should carry a voltage and trigger relay R1 of the front power distribution fuse box.



It should carry an output voltage of +5V to +12V, I did not find a precise specification.
If it does not, the ASM does not work for some reason.



But if it does and if all that works (including R1), Fuse 6 of the front power distribution fuse box should carry +12V to +14V.
This current goes to the compressor for about 2 minutes after you started the engine.

Please also check CR88-3 as Don proposed in post #46ff.
As I read in The Big 3, a good ground connection should have a minimal resistance (in case of 500 Ampere less than 0,01 Ohm), in this case (CR88-3, G17AL and 40 Ampere) I don't know.

The ground point behind the headlamp (G2AR) or of the compressor (G1BS) could also cause a problem, maybe Don knows where G1BS is.

Please let Don check and approve this procedure before you start your tests.

Did you manage to get any version of the electrical guide ?

Regards

 

I did and found >12v on CR8, but I was able to get to it much easier as I now know how to remove the seat without taking it all apart. Unclip the bottom, then pull the seatback forward. Peal back in the insulation and there's the ASM.

I will definitely try to check when the fault is showing, but it's rarely on when I'm in the driveway and have everything out. I will keep the cable and the laptop in the "ready mode" for use as soon as I get the chance to check it when I get to.

Thanks Leo. I have a feeling it's in the ASM, but the testing will be done prior to any purchases made. Don sent me the Elec guide the first day (Thanks again Don!) and I've been through it. Deciphering it is proving tougher than I thought at this point. I am just picked up 10x13 paper and I plan to print out each side of each sheet and then tape them together. I think a larger physical piece I can draw on, etc.
Thanks again Leo. At this point, I think the best option is to wait for the scanner and see what I can. I'm heading to Indiana from 2-9 July and the Jag will be garaged while I'm away. Another reason I spent 30GBP ($52 US) for expedited shipping. I received word that it has shipped, but no tracking info, even when I sent them a message asking for it. Please keep your fingers crossed when you get a moment as that's what I'm doing now...

 

Agreed Gus... I'm hoping it will also give me the ability to help other military members and those close to me as opposed to an expensive shop!

 

Some friends have suggested that, since I've had three Jags in 3 months, that I change my road name from Ragman to Jagman... lol I have RAGMAN on the license plate of my Durango.


Sso I'm getting the following for Faith:

 

EGADS!!! The CATS System Fault (CSF) came on last night on my way home from work. Then, this morning, on the way in, the Air Suspension Fault (ASF) came on again and it flashed back and forth to the CSF & ASF for most entirety of the commute. Still no word on the ETA of the JLR from GB... More than a little aggravated that I opted for the $52 shipping upgrade and have received no tracking info, even after sending a message asking for some, I got no reply...

 

the code reader came in. suddenly, I am feeling too ill to stay at work. I will update when I am well enough to connect the code reader and get the codes.

 

Hi ragman,

Follow the instructions for installing the software and cable driver carefully, and drop me a private message if you have any difficulty getting them up and running.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don. Making copies of the DVDs so the originals will remain pristine and the copies will get used, JIC!

 

To check the air suspension system, please have a look at this posts:

All Posts of Don B.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1002798 #22 cable

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1003333 #24 relay R1

Hope you get well soon

 

Thank you! I will go through them ASAP!!!

On a related note, I'm not able to locate any info on the JLR SDD software regarding the CATS System Fault. I can find and/or diagnose or clear it. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas??? Thanks again to all!

 

CATS SYSTEM FAULT!!! ARRRGHH!!!!!! It will NOT go away for any period of time. It comes on within a couple mins and then back off, but the ride quality doesn't improve. Then it's back one and off,, etc!!!! NOTHING in the JLR SSD about it either.........

 

Jason,

It's indeed a system not very well documented, but basically it's an electrical signal from the computer to the shocks to stiffen up if it detects to much body roll. I would love to know myself how it works in the shock itself but haven't found anything about it yet.

If there's a failure in the CATS system it results in the shocks go hard and the message appears. I've read that a reset from the computer is needed after a failure to get it from the hard setting but I can't confirm that. I once started my car on low battery and got every conceivable fault message on the display and also a hard ride. After driving the car to charge the battery and turning the car off and on everything was back to normal, including the hard ride. So I'm not sure if a software reset is really needed for that.

If you remove the electrical connectors from the shocks the ride will go hard. You could do this to determine if your system is indeed in the hard setting or not.

I think you have the software now, do you know how to read fault codes with it? If so what fault codes (DTC's) are there?

Guus

 

Guus,
Again, we find ourselves in bewildered agreement. The front shocks are new, prior to my obtaining the car, but not long beforehand. The electrical connections appear to be in proper order.
To say, at this time yesterday, I was at my wits end was a sore estimation at wits as the family and I (The Mrs, two daughters) went to dinner and NOT ONCE did the CATS fault show itself. As if it wanted to make a liar of me. I have not ventured even a step into the driveway today as I'm trying to allow my mind to rest and catch up on "Honey-Do's" that suffered over the past weeks.
As I'm headed on a trip to Indiana on Wednesday, and not taking the Jag, I need to put my time to other uses.
I do have the software now and the DTCs, as I've seen them, do not show ANYTHING regarding the CATS. I have driven with the system connected and the CATS appearing and no additional codes appeared. I admit that I'm less than qualified to utilize the software, I would much rather learn on mine and research what I do find as opposed to give inaccurate false reports to what the findings are. I am guessing time is what is needed. That accompanied with numerous diag with the JLR SDD software...

R,
J

Post Script; The Air SUS Fault has yet to return. I actually heard the compressor AND the release of air while driving. Even a small victory is a victory (as long as it remains won).

 

Sometimes transistors get their polarity reversed by an electric shock.
After some hours without current, few may recover groggy from that incident.

When I got a failure of the ASM it was the same: No codes were stored.

Hope your luck persists !