Multiple Suspension Faults (& others)
#101
#102
#103
I had a CT Scan to get to this morn ad then some rest. I am still learning the software and I have not been able to locate any, but I'm sure they're there, jsut need to locate them.
#105
I think I cleared the DTCs the first time before I knew what I was doing cause the first clip is when I first got the software and the 2nd is what I get now (even tho the Check Engine has been cleared).
I edited it to add the current main screen and I see where I selected Related & unrelated events as I see the DTCs again in the unrelated events section.
I edited it to add the current main screen and I see where I selected Related & unrelated events as I see the DTCs again in the unrelated events section.
Last edited by ragman1171; 07-12-2014 at 06:59 AM.
#106
Jason,
You have the C1419 which is CATS related. Check the electrical connector to this damper if it's good and connected correctly. If you think you've improved something you could reset the codes and see if it pop-ups again.
Next step would be to check the wiring from ASM to the damper. Since CATS is activated when need you can't measure for volts easy so you may have to disconnect the connector on the ASM as well and measure with an ohm meter if the cable is okay.
Guus
You have the C1419 which is CATS related. Check the electrical connector to this damper if it's good and connected correctly. If you think you've improved something you could reset the codes and see if it pop-ups again.
Next step would be to check the wiring from ASM to the damper. Since CATS is activated when need you can't measure for volts easy so you may have to disconnect the connector on the ASM as well and measure with an ohm meter if the cable is okay.
Guus
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ragman1171 (07-12-2014)
#107
Jason,
You have the C1419 which is CATS related. Check the electrical connector to this damper if it's good and connected correctly. If you think you've improved something you could reset the codes and see if it pop-ups again.
Next step would be to check the wiring from ASM to the damper. Since CATS is activated when need you can't measure for volts easy so you may have to disconnect the connector on the ASM as well and measure with an ohm meter if the cable is okay.
Guus
You have the C1419 which is CATS related. Check the electrical connector to this damper if it's good and connected correctly. If you think you've improved something you could reset the codes and see if it pop-ups again.
Next step would be to check the wiring from ASM to the damper. Since CATS is activated when need you can't measure for volts easy so you may have to disconnect the connector on the ASM as well and measure with an ohm meter if the cable is okay.
Guus
Guus,
I have checked the connection repeatedly. When I bought her, I had her checked out and was told that the front dampers were new to the car. I have checked the pins several times as well. I will try to clear the DTCs (as soon as I figure out how) and then go for a spin. I have a feeling it's going to pop up again, but, hopefully, it'll be a fresh code...
J
#108
I believe reset can be done under recommendations as well as under service. You'll find it.
The damper could be just fine, what the message tells you is the electrical circuit to the damper is open which could be a broken wire or bad connector. Could also be the damper or ASM but try the easy and cheap things first.
Guus
The damper could be just fine, what the message tells you is the electrical circuit to the damper is open which could be a broken wire or bad connector. Could also be the damper or ASM but try the easy and cheap things first.
Guus
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ragman1171 (07-12-2014)
#109
I believe reset can be done under recommendations as well as under service. You'll find it.
The damper could be just fine, what the message tells you is the electrical circuit to the damper is open which could be a broken wire or bad connector. Could also be the damper or ASM but try the easy and cheap things first.
Guus
The damper could be just fine, what the message tells you is the electrical circuit to the damper is open which could be a broken wire or bad connector. Could also be the damper or ASM but try the easy and cheap things first.
Guus
#110
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ragman1171 (07-12-2014)
#111
Thanks Guus. I'll try to give it a look in the AM. missed several hours sleep again yesterday working this same thing and I sincerely thought it'd be fast-n-easy once I got the SSD as it'd tell me the "5 W's"... Another lesson learned...
#112
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ragman1171 (07-14-2014)
#113
#114
So here's the update. I did NOTHING yesterday with Faith other than drive to work and back. I got home from work this morn after a LONG shift and took some screenshots of the current statuses and then cleared the DTCs. I went for a drive after that and TWO minutes in, the CATS System Fault popped up. I wanted to give her at least 20 mins so i kept going. I had the SDD connected the entire time and I was stopped when the CSF came up and I brought up the symptoms and nothing related to the suspension.
The rest of the ride was uneventful. No fault lights, smooth ride, etc. I got up to just over 100 MPH and went into and out of Sport Mode just to see what would happen. Noting and there were no faults in the history either. The names of the screenshots are the date and time of the screenshots in Eastern Standard Time.
My ride lasted just over 30 mins and she seemed level when i got out. All I can do now is wait-n-see...
P.S... The heat index is 100 deg F right now... I think I'm going to wait a bit longer before I tinker and allow the blood sucking heat and humidity drop a bit...
The rest of the ride was uneventful. No fault lights, smooth ride, etc. I got up to just over 100 MPH and went into and out of Sport Mode just to see what would happen. Noting and there were no faults in the history either. The names of the screenshots are the date and time of the screenshots in Eastern Standard Time.
My ride lasted just over 30 mins and she seemed level when i got out. All I can do now is wait-n-see...
P.S... The heat index is 100 deg F right now... I think I'm going to wait a bit longer before I tinker and allow the blood sucking heat and humidity drop a bit...
Last edited by ragman1171; 07-14-2014 at 11:49 AM.
#115
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ragman1171 (07-17-2014)
#116
#117
All the DTC's are stored in the car. After the SDD has read them from the car you can disconnect the SDD and still do diagnostics.
Since you don't see the message right from it may be interesting to use the data log function while driving.
If you're up for it I'll tell you how that can be done. :-)
Guus
Since you don't see the message right from it may be interesting to use the data log function while driving.
If you're up for it I'll tell you how that can be done. :-)
Guus
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ragman1171 (07-14-2014)
#118
All the DTC's are stored in the car. After the SDD has read them from the car you can disconnect the SDD and still do diagnostics.
Since you don't see the message right from it may be interesting to use the data log function while driving.
If you're up for it I'll tell you how that can be done. :-)
Guus
Since you don't see the message right from it may be interesting to use the data log function while driving.
If you're up for it I'll tell you how that can be done. :-)
Guus
#119
Jason, here's how to use the datalogger.
Start a session first and choose diagnostics. It's not really important what you find but you need to select a symptom to get the menu at the top with Recommendations. In that menu you can choose the datalogger. For this to work it's important that the Mongoose is connected or it won't start.
In the datalogger to the left is a menu with the different systems. Go into suspension and choose the sensor/units you're interested in. In your case you'll want anything CATS/Damper related and I would also include the voltage to the different sensors/units. That way you can see if a power dip is the cause of your malfunction. Since it's intermittent it could very well be the reason for this problem.
Click on any item you want to add and click on the arrow on the right to add it. Once you've picked an item from the list you go into the bottom second icon from the left and change it from measure value to trend (a little chart). Do this for all sensors separately. Then go into the third icon from the left and choose the 10 minute measuring interval.
The go to the fifth (I think) icon which is the datalogger itself. You see all the sensors you choose listed and a button on the right like the play button on a CD or old tapedeck. If you click that it will ask you to turn the ignition on and if all is well you see values appear.
Start the car, press the recording icon just above the play button and it will start recording. Take the car for a drive. Please turn the laptop to the side you won't be tempted to watch the screen.
The recording automatically stops after 10 minutes. You can disconnect the Mangoose from the car but leave it connected to the laptop. You can play back the recorded session at this point or if you close the session it will be save so you can work with it again next time.
Since you don't know when the fault will appear this might take a few sessions till it shows up.
Hope this description helps, otherwise just let me know where you need help.
Guus
Start a session first and choose diagnostics. It's not really important what you find but you need to select a symptom to get the menu at the top with Recommendations. In that menu you can choose the datalogger. For this to work it's important that the Mongoose is connected or it won't start.
In the datalogger to the left is a menu with the different systems. Go into suspension and choose the sensor/units you're interested in. In your case you'll want anything CATS/Damper related and I would also include the voltage to the different sensors/units. That way you can see if a power dip is the cause of your malfunction. Since it's intermittent it could very well be the reason for this problem.
Click on any item you want to add and click on the arrow on the right to add it. Once you've picked an item from the list you go into the bottom second icon from the left and change it from measure value to trend (a little chart). Do this for all sensors separately. Then go into the third icon from the left and choose the 10 minute measuring interval.
The go to the fifth (I think) icon which is the datalogger itself. You see all the sensors you choose listed and a button on the right like the play button on a CD or old tapedeck. If you click that it will ask you to turn the ignition on and if all is well you see values appear.
Start the car, press the recording icon just above the play button and it will start recording. Take the car for a drive. Please turn the laptop to the side you won't be tempted to watch the screen.
The recording automatically stops after 10 minutes. You can disconnect the Mangoose from the car but leave it connected to the laptop. You can play back the recorded session at this point or if you close the session it will be save so you can work with it again next time.
Since you don't know when the fault will appear this might take a few sessions till it shows up.
Hope this description helps, otherwise just let me know where you need help.
Guus
The following 2 users liked this post by Xag:
Don B (07-15-2014),
ragman1171 (07-17-2014)
#120
oddly enough, I started the data logger before I started the testing and the clearing of the codes. It was running while I was doing all of the driving. I had selected the entire dynamic suspension range in the options to record. I have not gone back in and looked at the results as of yet. I have to wonder if the datalogger it has been running for the last two days? LolI need to complete the other portions that you recommended with a new session is my best guess. Thank you for the information and I will see about getting to it as soon as I can. A couple other projects have popped up that have taken my attention for the last couple days. One of which, ironically enough, is the aftermarket air suspension I installed on my motorcycle. Good grief!