Typically things like these come in three's.....

 

well, that's just comforting! Lol on the bright side, my entire day yesterday was encompassed by assisting a friend in milling out the lower receiver for an AR 15 ghost gun.I have built a few in the past and have the tools and the knowledge so he came to the house and we spent about 9 hours milling out the fire control pocket.

 

New session results as the CATS came on again yesterday afternoon.
C1419. can't find JACK on it during a Google search. Now what???? GRRR!!! Here's the screenshots...




With the engine off and the key in the Off position, I checked for continuity (con) on the tip of the pins and it is present. I did the same for the wires one the connector as the tips of the multimeter would not fit in the holes and it was present. I am going to use a couple small wires to get in there and test inside the electrical connector and will edit this with the update. I wanted to get this out there and get your gears turning on where to go next in the meantime.

So it turns out that small paperclips are the same size as the pins and a pair of them work nicely to check continuity. Interesting results. Here's the final of all tests. The pins on the damper had con, the wires on the elec connector had con when disconnected. The inside of the connector did NOT have con.I connected the connector and tested the wires again and had con. For a base, I tested the L side which has not given any codes and I received the EXACT same results as the right. So, the con test only showed that the dampers and the wires have con. Where do they lead? what is upstream that I can test, other than fuses as I've been through all of them already???

 

Hi ragman,

C1419 indicates a malfunction with the right-hand front air spring solenoid circuit (not necessarily the solenoid itself, but its electrical circuit).

You can find information on most if not all DTCs in the X350 Workshop Manual, which you can download in six sections from the main page of this X350 forum, in the X350 'HOW TO' quick links thread. The DTCs that begin with C are explained in the Chassis section of the manual. C1419 is on page 268 of that section, and pinpoint test procedures begin on page 280. I use the Cntrl+F (Cmd+F) search function to search the pdf files.

Cheers,

Don

 

Your test shows you've got a connection. Since you don't have the message every time that was an option. Can you rule out a bad connection in the wires that's influenced by the car moving?

Guus

 

Yes I can. It is on when stationary. Intermittent and random is an understatement. Happens when I turn the car on, when stopped it'll pop up, moving, doing morse code, etc. Lol

 

Here's the **UPDATE**

OF COURSE... On my way home from work this morn, a rock hits the windshield about 2" from the edge of the passenger's side about half hay up and imediately put a 6" crack in the passenger's side. $1000 for a new one that my ins is covering as I have $0 comp ded. The BS of going in and getting it done is the pain now. If they came to me, the first avail appt is TUE. I'll get it done now, TYVM! lol

On to the CATS... Here's the breakdown of each pinpoints with the results (including some pics and one lil vid)

PINPOINT TEST G256924p9 : C1416, C1417, C1419; RIGHT-HAND FRONT AIR SPRING DRIVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
G256924t17 : CHECK THE RIGHT-HAND FRONT AIR SPRING DRIVE CIRCUIT
FOR SHORT TO B+
1. Disconnect the right-hand front air spring electrical connector, EC12. 2. Measure the voltage
between EC12, pin 02 (BG) and GROUND.
· Is the voltage greater than 3 volts?
-> Yes
REPAIR the short circuit. For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams. CLEAR the DTC.
TEST the system for normal operation.
-> No
GO to Pinpoint Test G256924t18.
**NO**

G256924t18 : CHECK THE RIGHT-HAND FRONT AIR SPRING DRIVE CIRCUIT
FOR SHORT TO GROUND
1. Measure the resistance between EC12, pin 02 (BG) and GROUND.
· Is the resistance less than 10,000 ohms?
-> Yes
REPAIR the short circuit. For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams. CLEAR the DTC.
TEST the system for normal operation.
-> No
GO to Pinpoint Test G256924t19.
**NO**


G256924t19 : CHECK THE RIGHT-HAND FRONT AIR SPRING DRIVE CIRCUIT
FOR HIGH RESISTANCE
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2. Disconnect the ASU electrical connector, CR89. 3.
Measure the resistance between EC12, pin 02 (BG) and CR89, pin 10 (BG).
· Is the resistance greater than 5 ohms?
-> Yes
REPAIR the high resistance circuit. For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams. CLEAR the
DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.
-> No
INSTALL a new air spring solenoid, CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.

This last one is a little tricky. I had the MM set to 200 ohms. It rested on 1.0/1.1 most of the time. When I made the initial connection though, it started at over 19.00 (that's the vid dropping from 19 to 1.1). The way I have been taught is that when set at 200, then 1.00 is 1, making it under 5. Here's the pics:
OK, so no video as it's MP4 and too large, but I told you what's in it.
If it is under 5 ohms, then what is the high res circuit it's referring to? I've been up a LONG time and will fall asleep if I try to cipher it now. lol

A quick drive had the CATS come right back on too...

 

Hi ragman,

You don't have high resistance in the circuit since you're measuring just 1 ohm or so. What the manual is saying is that if you measured more than 5 ohms, the resistance in the circuit would be too high for proper operation, and you would need to find the source of the high resistance, such as corrosion or looseness in a connector. It appears that you have reached the point in the diagnostics where the air spring solenoid is suspect. It might be worth carefully checking the electrical connector and perhaps backprobing it while it's installed on the shock to test its continuity. I can't find a listing in the EPC for the air spring solenoid as a separate part. I wonder if Bilstein could supply one?

Don

 

Hi Jason, I'm impressed with all the things you've tested already. I'm just home from a week away and reading the forum on my iPhone. My holiday has started so I hope catch up with your findings and maybe do some testing myself.

Guus

 

As far as I know the solenoid is not replaceable, I have never seen it reported on here.

I do know that it needs just 5 volts-if you try 5 volts across it you may hear it working?

 

Thanks. What/Where do I apply the 5v to? The top of the shock itself?

 

I think I mentioned it in one of the earlier posts, but when I had it checked out, I was told that the front shocks had been replaced. perhaps the shock is bad? After completing MANY suspension setups on this, I've never had the front L & R match up, before or after. The R was always a bit lower.

 

So that makes the last one a NO as well... With what meirion1 added, about the solenoid not being replaceable, then what part is?

 

Thanks Guus. It's not in me to just quit. I can admit when I'm beaten or reached the extent of my skills with no more possibilities, but it just doesn't seem like this one wants to be found. Almost as if it was intentionally set to fault in the car's brain. Maybe this one has an extra chromosome.

I stepped back for a week when I went to Indiana and then tried to look at everything with fresh eyes. Problem with that was I still didn't know what I was looking at/for. I've chased this to the extent of the literature, which I find a little crude how it ended. It didn't give, IMHO, an adequate action for Yes and No for the last action. If the resistance was too high, find & fix the cause. If No, buy & install a new air spring solenoid, which is doesn't say if that IS the issue or not, just replace it. If I do, clear the DTC, the CSF returns, then what?

I'm at the point where I'm considering throwing money at the items first from the last test to the first test...

The Jag dealer will HAVE to do all the exact same test I did already and that will run $140 an hour. As long as it's taken me, in waiting for the SDD to load several times, half the money will be for them to sit in my car an watch the blue bar on the screen populate...

 

"What/Where do I apply the 5v to? The top of the shock itself?"

There are two small wires which run to the top of each shock and these are connected to two small pins on the shocks via a little plug.

These pins and wires can easily become damaged eg pins bent.

The wires supply 5 volts to a solenoid inside the shock,to hold the solenoid in the correct position.

If the 5v suppy is interrupted,the solenoid closes (I assume) and the CATS defaults to "HARD".

If you test the two pins for continuity using an ohmeter and you get a reading that will indicate

that the solenoid is working.

 

Thanks! Gotcha. I've done the continuity test and it came up positive for proper continuity and in the proper range. I will try to figure a way to fashion a 5v source to put to it now.

 

Jason, maybe this information is of help too.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...uestion-76476/

Guus

 

Jason now that you have proved that there is continuity there is no need to apply the 5v since thre is now a very high probability that the solenod itself is working.

 

I was thinking the same thing. I've been on 12 hr rotating shifts on the overnight/weekends and have had little rest. When I sent that last message, I was, to say the least, over-tired. lol I saw a test I had not done yet and my first instinct was, if it doesn't hurt anything, I'll try it! After 5 hours of semi interrupted sleep, I think the next course of action, if I don't learn anything new by tomorrow morning, is start the troubleshooting over. I documented the actions and results on here, but not all of them on any personal records other than a few pics and vids. I think I'll try them again with pics/vids/and write-ups.

 

Hi meirion1,

Since I don't know exactly what type of device the CATS solenoid is, I'm curious to know how continuity through the solenoid suggests a high probability that it is working...

If, for example, the solenoid is a valve that opens (or closes) in response to the 400Hz PWM signal Cambo351 has shown us on the scope, is it not possible that the valve is mechanically seized, but that due to the lower heat buildup of the constant current PWM signal, the solenoid coil is still intact and not burned open? If the solenoid is a device other than a valve, do you know how it operates?

Thanks in advance for any additional information to help me understand. I'm trying to learn everything I can about this air suspension system!

Cheers,

Don