Although the engine runs fine, the plastic end tanks on the Rad. will need replaced as the top mounting posts were broken.
The car took a hit to the front, at an angle a little to the left of a straight on hit. When I bought the car it had already been stripped of the whole front end down to the bumper frame. The bumper frame wasn't damaged but was pushed a little to the right. The left fender is missing, the right fender I can repair as it only has one small crease and no paint damage . . .
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Good luck with the project. sounds like you have a lot of work to do.

 

I received only a switchblade key-remote with this car, all documentation, manuals etc. had been taken. The car has rear parking sensors (and they work fine.) As I'm now ready to start looking for a front end, how can I find out if the car was born with front parking sensors, also the type of headlights it came with? Does anyone know the best way to go about finding out this information? Thanks! Joe
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Thanks KAZAM, it's been a fun project so far. My son said he would help me get some pictures posted to a site for you guys.
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If it is an XJ8 or XJ8L, it most likely did not have HID leadlamps or front park sensors.

 

go to a dealer and have them run the vin.. they will tell you everything the car has or had lol

 

Thanks for the info guys. The plug in for the headlights is female, black with a red plastic locking clip, it has two rows of connectors, one with four, one with five. Does this sound like a HID plug in to anyone?
Although I'm sure most of you know this, I want to mention that 2004 was the first year that Jaguar made the aluminum body and frame for the XJ8. When I was jacking it up to put it on blocks I was shocked just how stiff this car body is! I think that is a sign of a good design and quality materials in the construction.

Joe
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I took the PCV valve off of the right engine valve cover and was surprised to find I was able to blow through it both ways freely. Isn"t it suposed to function as a one way valve and only let vapors flow out of the valve cover? When I tap it with my finger, I can hear a coil spring inside "singing" under some tension. In my opinion this valve can"t be working right, what do you all think?
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PCV valves are not one-way valves, they are flow regulator valves. The only time they are not working is if air cannot flow through them.

 

Thanks oldmots for the reply and information on the PCV valve. I have never seen one quite like it, but this is the first Jag I have ever worked on. The inside of the valve and hose looked to be fairly clean.
What can you tell me about the two sensors on the top front of both valve covers? Thanks again!
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Sounds like the variable valve timing sensors.

 

Technically speaking, these are not sensors, they are the connectors to the hydraulic solenoids that activate the variable valve timing on the intake cams.

 

Thanks for the information Ken and Oldmots.
On my engine oil fill cap it says, "JAGUAR recommends Castrol SAE 5W-30" I think I saw some place that said the reason to use 5W-30 and not 5W-20 is so there is enough oil pressure for the hydraulic operated variable valve timing to work properly, and to advance the valves the proper amount. Anyone know if Castrol SAE 5W-30 is a Synthetic Blend motor oil? If not I plan to use Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend on my XJ8. I have used it and 5W-20 for several years on my fleet and had great luck with it. I prefer to use a cheaper Synthetic Blend and change the oil more often, than to use a more expensive pure Synthetic and change less often. I have found that this keeps the engine insides cleaner, and less engine deposits = less engine problems.
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Semi means "not all the way". I suggest using Mobil 1 or Castrol or other top name brandfull synthetic and changing it about every 7000 miles. Full synthetics are the best oil period. I know ofNO ONE withan 04 and up XJ8 that can't afford the very best oil for it.

 

I use 5w-30 Castrol full synthetic in my 4.0 and 4.2 and I change it at 3K intervals. My engines are very clean! When my mechanic changed the tensioners from the plastic ones to the metal ones, in the 4.0, he said he thought he was working on a new engine.

 

Thanks for your input guys.

While I had the serpentine belt off I saw it was in good shape and had no markings on it, Jaguar or otherwise. It cross refs. to a Gates Belt # K060900. You 04 XJ8 owners may want to keep this little tidbit of information in your owners manual.
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Oil threads are so dangerous sinceso muchof the information is opinion. But, my opinion is that changing a synthetic oil in a modern engine with fuel injection at 3000 miles is an exercise. This oil will go double that and not break a sweat. It's your money and time, but the days of even needing to change even conventional oil at 3000 miles are long gone. I have an X300 and use conventional oil in it, changing it at 5000 miles or so. The engine is still spotless inside the valve cover where I can see. The manufacturer calls for oil changes to both cars at 10,000 miles, but I think this is too long. The computer in my wifes MINI calls for changes around 15,000 which I think is way too long. I change it every 7500. This engine is spotless, inside the valve cover anyway.

 

[sm=interesting.gif]'oldmots', I won't disagree with you, but my cars get a lot of stop and go and idling in big city traffic. In fact a friend of mine laughs at me and told me to save my used oil so he can use it for his oil changes![sm=laughat.gif] I may have to re-evaluate my theory on this. Even at my age I can change my habits.[sm=hail.gif]

 

I used Mobil1 years ago in a 1978 Trans Amm when I was a youngster. I think they said back then the oil would hold up for something like 15-20K, if I rember right. I got worried about how black the oil had become, and it started to even smell gunked up after something like 7-9K so I changed it and never tried it again.
I feel like the limiting factor is that motor oil can only keep so much combustion biproducts in suspension, and after that point varnish and deposits start to form inside the engine. I think we would all agree on that, I think the main question is; just where is the tipping point?
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Carbureted engines are very dirty compared to fuel injectred ones. The oil will last much longer on modern fuel injected motors. On carbureted engines, 3000 miles was a good time to change oil.