Driving to the store, & the car just died.
Pulled over to the side of the road, lights, horn, dash listing all kinds of issues.
Trans fault, emergency brake not available, with others, nothing with the key trying to start.
Towed home, put charger on, starter now clicks after several hours,no effort to start.
Have a gang of codes, P1794, B1318, low voltage.
But with the B2139 code, P C M, power control module, P A T S passive anti-theft system code i'm worried.
Have a gang of U codes 9 in number, but the B2139 is my main concern
Battery is not that old, shows good with voltage test with tester that puts a load on the battery.
Any ideas are welcome

 

You're right to suspect the battery. what's the voltage after say 10 minutes of sitting off a charge and then 24 hours later uncharged? if it's any lower than 12.6 resting voltage, the battery is bad. This according to a few of the techs who respond to these types of threads. I read your comment but would use those measurements as a guide on an unloaded battery. Also what is the draw under load?

"With the engine off, you should get a reading of 12.6 volts. If the battery isn’t fully charged, it will diminish to 12.4V at 75%, 12V when it’s only operating at 25%, and down to 11.9V when it’s completely discharged. This data and the way it relates to the design of your battery should provide you with some useful insight into the functioning capacity of your car battery."

"When performing a load test, you should apply a load to a fully charged battery for no more than 30 seconds and should not see the voltage drop below 9.6V. If it does, replace the battery."

 

The observation regarding the battery sounds good, but I would think a bad battery would not kill the engine if it was running. That sounds like something else. Do you have power to any other circuits (headlights, horn, interior lights, fuel pump)? Has the alternator been giving any problems?

 

Put a 9H AGM in mine and cleaned all the ground points. Underhood and under the backseat.
Now sure why these cars are such battery killers. Some blame the high charging voltage.

 

The battery is still strong, only dropped to 11+ volts with load test.
All other battery related functions,lights, horn, etc, all work.
But ignition only clicks, P A T S shuts everything in the running of the engine down.
Coils, fuel pump, as well as the starter, are killed if this is it.
That seems to be a real possibility, that has me stumped, WTF needs done to fix???????????????????
Appreciate any and all help, as i really need to figure out how to fix this car.

 

Issue sounds like brake light switch, that would not kill the car. Try jiggling the battery cables and inspect clamps.
Try a hard reset, short battery terminals for 5 minutes, charge battery overnight while disconnected. Hook up and hopefully drive into the sunrise.

 

That should be plenty of juice. I understand your concern regarding the B2139 code as that does seem to indicate a significant issue. Have you checked all the grounds? Since you had it transported I presume the J gate is moveable and there is no difference when you try to start in neutral. I know you have done a substantial amount of work on your Jag and were recently working on the rear lower control arms. I don’t really think there is much in that area that could have been disturbed while working on those but the EBP or ABS. I was searching for information on the B2139 code and the first link on this forum (through Google) was one started by Mac Allan. He was able to sort out his issue because he had IDS/SDD. Is the PATS indicator blinking when just sitting as it should and have you tried different keys (does it lock and unlock properly)? The fact that it was running and then died has me confused as I did not think the PATS system worked that way. The inertia switch has been checked hasn't it?

 

Actually if the starter is clicking doesn't that rule out the PATS. I thought that part of the electrical system would be dead if PATS was working.?

 

Does the relay clicking, always mean that current gets to the starter?
Starter did not have anything to do with the car just quitting, pats go out this way?
If so how to fix?

 

I have looked up B2139 ie PCM not recognising code from PATS control system which includes instrument module and ign key locking.

Looks to me that this is the root cause and it may be that you need a main dealer to fix it.

Maybe an hour or so on SDD by a mech who knows the system in detail could fix it?

Good luck

 

Tested the PATS it stays on for three seconds then goes out, like its supposed to.
A mechanic friend says starter issue, i said yes sounds like a starter, but no previous starting issues.
They usually give you notice, & never heard of a starter killing the motor while running, he said it can.
He said check the connections to see if all is tight, clean, & not arcing, as clicking is the starter.
Looks like i will have to check it to see, he is usually right about things.

 

This is a cheap fix. A rebuild runs 100.00 - 150.00. 150.00 gets a Denso or Bosch. Cannot be too bad to swap.
Reprogramming the system would have been much more. They charge around hundred to program a spare key.
Not sure I buy into starter failure killing engine.

 

I'm never heard of a starter killing a running engine either, but over the years, he always seems to guess right.
So underneath the car to have a look at the starter wires, & connections.

 

I also have never heard of a "bad starter" causing a vehicle to stop while driving down the road. However with the new computer controlled multi interactive systems I will not be shocked to be informed it does. Heck I was surprised by the problems the self adjusting pedal and steering column can cause. Just in case it isn't the starter, is there any chance something was disturbed while you were recently working on your most recent project/ I hope your mechanic is correct and you keep us informed of the results. Good luck.

 

Well kids he was right again, the positive cable was not in its brackets.
But against the exhaust pipe, .
Took out a 450 amp time delay fuse, killing the engine.
About four months ago replaced the alternator, & starter, changed trans fluid, hot long day.
Thankfully the cable was in its brackets on the 04, as we did that one, after the 07.
The we factor was my friend with a lift, that he let me use, & helped on both.
The second go around went better, than the first time.
Still hot as hell, but having done the job before, seems i, we, didn't make the mistake twice.

 

That is great, the part that you were able to determine the problem that is. In addition to the fuse was replacement of the starter required? at least the shorted out cable didn't take a whole circuit/harness with it. Thanks for the update.

 

Waiting for the fuse from the Jaguar dealer, as well as the black plastic piece by the lower left fog lite to come in.
As of yet the final state, & fate of the starter, is unknown, my friend says, good chance that the starter is ok.
They are still delivering parts to my bike shop, that's such a huge plus.
I can't say enough good things about the way they treat me.
My having two Jaguars to buy parts for helps, but i'm sure appreciative of the discount, as well as delivery.