XJ8JR, thanks again. I'm going to start a new thread re the differences in price versus quality.

 

XJ8JR, thanks for the part # at Rock. Part of the confusion on my part was the part actually has 4 different names. One of the sites listed over 100 cars that the part may be used.
Anyway, will be here on the 18th & I will endeavor to replace & report back. I had no luck downloading the "Chassis" part of the manual.
Do you think the rotor will need to be removed?

 

Caution: I tried to download the software accompanying the shop manuals & my browser is now infected with malware: search.hmyquickconverter.com. I am trying to discern how to remove. I have an Imac. If anyone has a solution, help will be appreciated.

If I get it figured out, I will post the solution.

 

It will definitely be easier to remove the calipers and rotors, yes. No need to disconnect the brake hose, just support the caliper off to the side. Removing the wheel hub may make things easier as well, but I don't think its absolutely necessary. Disconnecting the vertical link from the upper control arm will also make things easier when trying to separate the lower balljoint from the straight arm.

Depending on the age and condition of all the various nuts and bolts, you may want to take the opportunity to replace those as well. Some of them are nylock nuts and torque-to-yield bolts.

 

Thanks again!! Wish the part was here; I'm looking forward to getting started.

BTW: Easily removed the malware by using Malwarebytes. Wish I knew how to contact the site admin to inform of the malware.

 

Part arrived & it is quite impressive.

Have her elevated to the point of having good Mechanical Advantage & have taken the caliper & rotor off. The removal & installation looks fairly straightforward, but a few questions:

1. Any reason to disconnect the battery?
2. Should I remove the shock or can I just unbolt at the bottom?
3. Does order matter?
4. Should I mark the washers for alignment purposes? I do plan to have her aligned when I finish.
4. Other than the caliper, do any parts need to be supported?

Thanks & best,

Steve

 

1. I don't think there's any need to disconnect the battery. I didn't, however, I converted to coilovers, so there might be some issue with the air shocks going into jacking mode or something.

2. I believe you can just unbolt the shock at the bottom, but again, I don't remember if the air shocks will behave differently than the coilovers.

3. Disconnecting the sway bar link and the front banana arm first should make things easier. Then I'd disconnect the vertical link from the upper control arm. After that you should be able to go in any order fits best.

4. Yes, mark the alignment bolts and get them back as close as possible just so you can make it to the alignment shop easily.

5. Caliper should be the only thing needing support.

Good luck! Hopefully you'll have an easier time disconnecting those lower ball joints than I did!

 

One more thing: having an additional smaller jack underneath the assembly will definitely help line up the removal and installation of certain nuts and bolts.

 

Thanks, XJ8JR.
Will disconnect the battery. Probably should have before I put her up.
I have a small jack; will see if I can figure where to put it.
Will report back.

XJ8JR, if you're ever in Seattle, drinks and dinner on me.

 

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

 

Thin Shield Around Hub Bearing

If you look at the arm as it is installed, the lowest one(At the end nearest the wheel), the shield around the hub bearing seems to be preventing access to one end of the bolt. I was going to remove it, however, the fastenings aren't ones with which I am familiar. They appear to be brads on the front, but have a round washer-looking appearance on the back. Any idea how to remove them?

 

As the arm is installed, the end with the biggest bushing is higher and closest to the engine.

The bolt at the other end - lower & closer to the wheel - has a nut on a bolt which is very accessible; the other end of the bolt is under the shield.

From the dealer, i found that the shield is riveted on & it appears to be in the way of the end i can't get to.

However, looking at a diagram from Jaguar which is labelled UH9914D, it appears that the nut can be taken off without access to the other end of the bolt. Will give it a try & see if it comes off as i hope.

I've never used a rivet gun & don't plan to.

 

Hmmm. I'm not sure which bolt you're referring to. There was no need to remove the dust shield when I did this job. Looking at the diagram, are you talking about #18? If so, that nut bolts the ball joint to the arm, ie there is no bolt hidden under the shield. Just hit the nut with penetrating oil and crank it loose. However, once you've got it loose you'll have to hold the ball joint stud secure with a hex key or something so that it won't rotate with the nut, which may damage the ball joint. You may have to do the same when disconnecting the vertical link from the upper control arm.

 

Thanks XJ8JR,

Was able to remove all bolts except the big one at the back. Disconnected the Upper A Arm & removed the shock.

Arnott has a good video on the shock removal:


I will have her off if I can just remove the bolt in the picture. It is peculiar: the nut came off readily using a small breaker bar; The bolt just turns from the head end of the bolt; it doesn't come out a mm. I've tried pounding it from the nut end

to no avail. Any ideas how to get the bolt out?

I will try again to download the manual. Last time i had to run an anti malware program when i tried.
Lower Wishbone Lateral Arm On Passenger Side

 

Is there anything still weighing down the arm, putting tension on that bolt perhaps? Maybe also try removing that alignment washer.

 

I'll double-check, but there was no washer under the nut & the head has an elliptical washer that seems attached to the head.

 

The alignment washer is shown in your picture. It's got a little knub that locks into a ridge in the bolt threads. Pry that off and the bolt should loosen up.

 

Okay; talk about plunging into things with zero knowledge! Back soon.

THANKS!

 

Well, if you hadn't taught me better, I'd say the washer is fused to the threads. I'm going to look for the nub & try to remove it and if that doesn't work, I'll but some stuff on it & leave it until tomorrow because it is martini time!

Have a great evening!

 

Let some pb blaster soak in and pry it off with a flatblade or something.

It's nearly Guinness hour for me as well. Tomorrow I've got to find out why my brakes are clunking.