Alright guys here are the actual codes from my mechanic. Sorry about my first codes posting; it was actually the summary as some of you rightly pointed out. But below are the actual codes.

The battery may very well be kaput, but keep in mind that we tried jump-starting before using another vehicle. Could it still be the battery?

Again the car is a 2004 Jaguar XJ8 with 4.2L engine and 122,000 miles. I am awaiting your advice, comments and suggestions. Thank you all, God bless !!!

Engine
P1338 - Fuel pump circuit low/high input
P0860 - Gear shift module Communication circuit
P1582 - Flight recorder data is stored
P1637 - CAN link engine control module/ABS control module circuit/network malfunction
P1643 - CAN link engine control module/ transmission control module circuit/network malfunction
P1699 - CAN link engine control module/RCC network malfunction
Transmission
P1798 - CAN transmission control module/instrument cluster circuit malfunction
Antilock Brakes
B1318 - Battery voltage low
Airbag
B1318 - Battery voltage low
Confidential

Air Suspension
B1671 - Battery module voltage out of range
U2521 - ABS CAN messaging is missing
U2518 - Rear climate control module CAN messaging is missing
Body Control Module - Front
B2371 - Left seat heater invalid temperature set point B2372 - Right seat heater invalid temperature set point B2030 - Front fog lamp relay - circuit failure B2262 - Windshield wiper park to park timeout
Confidential

Body Control Module - Rear
P0231 - Fuel pump secondary circuit low
U1262 - SCP (J1850) Communications bus fault
B2162 - Right side module invalid identification
P1235 - Fuel pump control out of range
B2565 - Right tail lamp - circuit failure
B2577 - Left tail lamp circuit failure
FFF6 - Parking aid - short circuit to ground
B1676 - Battery voltage out of range
B2371 - Left seat heater invalid temperature set point
B2372 - Right seat heater invalid temperature set point
Door Module - Drivers
B1676 - Battery voltage out of range
Confidential

Electronic Parking Brake
C1989 - Parking brake apply and release switch contacts energized simultaneously
U1040 - SCP (J1850) invalid or missing data for vehicle speed C1409 - Parking brake apply switch circuit out of range C1408 - Parking brake release switch circuit out of range
Instrument Pack
U2521 - ABS CAN messaging is missing
U2522 - CAN message timeout from the transmission control module
B1318 - Battery voltage low
B1359 - Ignition run/accessory - circuit failure
U2197 - Invalid vehicle speed data
U2200 - Invalid data for rolling odometer count
B2139 - Data mismatch (received data does not match expected data)
B1689 - Autolamp delay - circuit failure
Confidential

Park Assist
C1710 - Rear right center sensor fault
C1709 - Rear right center sensor - circuit failure
C1707 - Rear left center sensor fault
C1706 - Rear left center sensor - circuit failure
Confidential

 

Thanks Papis. At first blush I see 6 battery messages in different systems. You also have 2 fuel pump circuit messages.

That said, I would still recommend replacing the battery and clearing the codes as I described above. Many of these codes should disappear, but I doubt it will start.

I recommend you take it to a Jag repair shop.

The two fuel pump codes are likely a defective fuel pump. There are tests you can run to validate the resistance it but not sure if electrical tests are in your wheelhouse. A Jag mechanic could run the tests. They are relatively simple to confirm a defective pump.

The CAN link codes are what I'm hoping will disappear with a new battery.

If it does start upon changing the battery, drive straight to the new mechanic. Do not run errands.

If it doesn't start, tow it to a competent mechanic and hand him/her the codes.

 

It could also be a pump control module, relay or even a fuse. Again, the tests will isolate

P1338
Fuel pump drive circuit low/high voltage
• Fuel pump module to fuel pump drive circuit; open circuit, short circuit, high resistance
• Fuel pump module failure
• Fuel pump failure

P1235
Fuel Pump Control Out Of Range
• Rear electronic module, fuel input (modulated pulsewidth) - out of range (low)

P0231
Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
• Rear electronic module, fuel pump control circuit - open

 

Not to give you false hope, but it would be worth checking the gray 6-way electrical connector under the rear seat on the right side. This connects the fuel pump to the rear electronic module via Red and Yellow wires. A known issue is water collecting under the seat due to a plugged rear right sunroof drain, so it is possible that if that has happened on your car the connector may be corroded or shorted.

Cheers,

Don

 

With what I have seen from your code listing, I'm with Don, that a good place to start would be around the fuel pump circuit, and one place to look is the grey 6-way connector under the rear seat, but due to the other codes, you may also want to pay attention to the rear power distribution fuse box as well. When you see low/no voltage, that is certainly one place to start, and the other circuit faults also feed through the rear fuse box.

 

Before you throw your money away on a new battery, recharge it and then have it tested. If holds charge after tested, it just becamed drained and is still good.

Yeah screwed up big time by not having a pre purchase inspection. You nevered mentioned what you paid for the privilege of becoming a proud owner of a 120K mi XJ.

Most likely due to its age, the repairs will end up costing more than you paid for the car not withstanding any deferred maintenance such as suspension.
You might want to cut your loses after you get it diagnosed from the Jag Dealer. These cars are expensive to maintain and the resale values reflect it.
Good Luck.

 

mberman

I paid $4500 + another $600 to have it transported to me. So far I've spent at least $1000 on repairs and keep in mind that I bought it just April of this year ... about 6 or 7 months ago.

Now the car is dead and I don't know what or how much it will cost to get it up and running.

So for a 2004 XJ8 with 120K, was it a good deal?

 

Unfortunately, no...

 

Don't think mercedes are more reliable this is my list of repairs conducted on my 2007 e550 over the past two months
-steering angle sensor
-camshaft position sensor x2
-crank angle sensor
-ecu repair
-fuel pump
-fuel pressure reg/filter

plus new gearbox installed in 2013

The jaguar engines specifically the 4.2 v8 is a fairly built proof unit however when it comes to electrical gremlins there can be a fair few present especially when your battery needs replacing, hence why a stack of us are in possession of a c-tek and use it regularly

Replace the battery and crank position sensor if it still doesn't start determine whether you have fuel in the lines i.e. is the pump working or not . If it still isn't running post the cel codes online so we can help worst case scenario if we can't help get it sent up to the Jaguar dealership

 

You got $6100k into an 04XJ with 122K mi. If the car was in perfect mechanical condition with all services performed and mint exterior maybe it would be worth top dollar of $6K.

Its not. It's worth about $4k if running and no codes.

Take the loss and sell it. Nobobdy wants a non runing car. If you can get it running for another $1k, fix and sell it.

You'll in the hole $3k. Consider yourself lucky to stop the bleeding. Be realistic that an 12 yr old jag with 122K miles that you paid $ 5100 and dumped another $1k into dianosgtic labor and a min on another $1k in hopes of getting it running and keeping it with no major future repairs is insane. This is the difinition of a money pit.

You could find another 04 XJ with less than 100K miles in great condition for $4k only with a pre purchase inspection performed by a certified Jag mechanic. Just shop until you find it. It will not be the first one you look at.
Good luck.

(The same buying advice applies to a Mercedes-Buyer Beware.)

 

Hey Papis,
The Battery is an absolute must, Jags are renowned for being highly Battery sensitive,
Without the "P" codes it really is a guess, was it raining or did you go through a carwash when all the bad things started to Happen? if so the drain could be blocked by the Cabin filter causing water to get into the ECU. Another thing is the throttle body which will show multiple error codes but should not put the car into lock mode.

 

+10 on the above. Make sure you get the correct battery type tho. NOT from a dealer. I understand Home Depot has the best available. Details are in another recent thread. It is not a standard lead/acid battery.

Have you a voltage meter to test the battery?

With a weak battery it is common to get multiple fault codes.

If you are lucky installing a good battery you will lose a lot of fault codes.

Have you tried looking up any maintenance history? Sometimes a Jag dealer will let you have the history if you give them the VIN or failing that pay for a CARFAX report on your VIN.

If you can obtain some background at least it might give you a clue especially if there were some items that kept going wrong when under warranty.

What is the cosmetic condition of the car? If it not good then that is often a bad sign as to the rest of the upkeep.

I bought my car without a professional appraisal but I did research it and I do my own spanner work. I got a cream puff at 99,000 miles.

 

Quote from Box: "Generally, no. However, if you are looking for a good deal on a Calcium battery, with 1080ca @ 32, 900cca @ 0, 185 reserve minutes, 4 year free replacement, 4 year free jump, 9 year prorate at around $110 (plus a $10 rebate from Exide) I recommend you visit Home Depot for an Exide L5/49X

Exide Extreme L5/49 Auto Battery-L5/49X - The Home Depot".