I am installing a new water pump and put anti-sieze on the bolt threads.

The manual says 8Nm plus 90 degrees so I set my torque wrench for 70 inch pounds and did that on all four bolts and then tried 90 degrees after that on the first bolt but it seemed like a lot of force and I didn't quite go 90 degrees.

I upped the torque setting until that same bolt turned a little bit and torqued all to the same value (I think it was around 170 inch pounds) and then bumped it up in steps to 190 inch pounds and all turned just a little more at 190 inch pounds.

Anyone have a final torque spec for these small bolts? I didn't care for the 8Nm plus 90 degree thing as the 90 degrees is somewhat subjective in tight quarters.

Forgot to mention, the pump is the new two-piece style with a paper gasket, not the one-piece one with the O-ring if it makes any difference. The manual showed the old style.

 

I did the same as you Phil but without ant-seize on my water pump.

Dont forget the anti-seize acts like a lubricant and therefore you may well over tighten
when torquing down a bolt.

Also when looking at similar bolt torques ranging from thermostat housing at 10Nm to charge air coolers at 13Nm the latter is the
highest torque setting of similar bolts that I see going into aluminum on may car.

 

You mean you did the 90 degree thing? Any idea what torque you ended up with? If these are 8mm bolts I am in the ball park, but if they are closer to 1/4", I over torqued them. I am not taking them out to measure them, though.

I checked the pulley bolts and those are 6mm. Darn. If the pump bolts are 6mm I did over torque them but not as much as I thought - the torque wrench was set at 180 (got to get better reading glasses) but still way over the recommended torque by like 100 inch pounds.

 

If I remember correctly I thought as you did in that trying for the additional 90 degree turn felt too much and I did not go a full 90.

I figured stripping a thread here would be VERY bad indeed. I have since not seen any leaks whatsoever.

Even with the best torque wrench using old bolts with maybe some dirt in the inside thread its not a precise science.

I have 3 different torques wrenches one for low torque, one intermediate, and one for high torque.

 

I checked the pulley bolts and those are 6mm. Darn. If the pump bolts are 6mm I did over torque them but not as much as I thought - the torque wrench was set at 180 (got to get better reading glasses) but still way over the recommended torque by like 100 inch pounds.

But then I probably ended up with the 70 inch pounds plus 90 degrees as they turned a little bit. Still that's way over the recommended torque for 6mm lubricated or dry. Wonder why jaguar didn't just give you a final torque spec.?

I'll be more careful with the pulley bolts and use some blue thread lock just in case.

The brushes for the auxiliary pump came today so maybe i can get it all done and buttoned up and hope for no more leaks.

Oh, BTW, the water pump came with a notice in the box that said “The OE manufacturer has changed the housing design on this water pump.”and that this is the “new design” and may be different from the “old design” pump you removed which used “a plastic insert with an O-ring and a gasket” and “the new housing is all metal with a gasket.” The reman pump that I had ordered first that seemed to be the wring pump must be the “old design”. It did not have a paper gasket with it and I don’t remember seeing an O-ring, but it looked more like the one in the manual. Both the new pump and the one i removed have plastic impellers.

 

Will be interested to see what happens with the rebuilt pump.

 

I modified a pair of brushes with a spring groove filed in the back and I used a 1/2" rat tail file to shape the com end to match the commutator diameter and I think I got them soldered OK (that was the hardest part). I tried the thread method of holding the brush springs back for reassembly, but I'd gone a little overboard on the brush length at .450 (trying to keep as much brush life as possible) and couldn't hold the brushes back quite far enough to clear the commutator, so I tried the Russian method.

I put a .525 diameter socket between the brushes, daubed a little water on the brush holders with a Q-tip, and put it in the freezer. It worked a charm. I had a little trouble working the frozen socket out, but then the brush holder slipped right into the motor body easy peezie. I'll let it thaw overnight and try powering it in the morning before I bend the little tabs back in place to hold it together.

Fingers crossed that my solder job was good enough. I have pics if anyone is interested, but there are excellent ones at this Benz site
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...onality-5.html

Thanks to MoscowLeaper for the Russian method of reassembly.


Edit: I decided not to wait till morning. I checked for continuity across the Aux pump’s spades and had continuity (beep) and 2.4 ohms and there was no continuity (short) to the metal motor body so I hooked up my 12V emergency start supply and tried it in the bathroom sink. It pumped well and ran quietly. WooHoo! Now to put things back together tomorrow and hope the coolant leak that started all this is not the hose under the supercharger - wouldn't that be a bummer.