Ok, so the transmission on my 2004 XJR needs to be replaced. Here are the options I was given, by searching around on here and google, the price seems fair:

1) New Transmission ZF 6HP26 $6200 (US) that's the transmission and the labor, warranty sounded pretty great, 100k miles 5 years, might have even been more, ill have to re check.

2) Used transmission out of a wrecked car, guy said "I think its a Jaguar like yours" but did confirm its a ZF 6HP26. $3300 43k miles, 1 year warranty. $3600 for a two year.

3) A rebuild of my current transmission (76.5k miles) "we will get back to you on that price" I would assume 3kish.

The forth option is trade in/sell the car for a laughable price, and get a new car. A V8 Dodge Charger is the only car that I see fits in affordable new V8. Although its the most painful option in price by miles, it also has the benefit of a warranty a new car comes with.

So, my thought process. I currently have a decent amount of money saved up, and can afford any of the options. However, I am getting out of the army in 3 months and the future is uncertain, I have prospects but no "for sure" job lined up. I can't just be blowing money. I love this car, but its already had the suspension replaced, the throttle body replaced, the lights (all of them) replaced, and now the transmission. Soon Ill do the bushings and new control arms, maybe.

On one hand, I am thinking with a new transmission and throttle body, what else expensive can really go wrong? I try my best to maintain the car well, regular oil changes, check ups, etc. On the other, multiple expensive repairs (if more lie ahead) are going to start hurting. This is my only car, and I admittedly speed and accelerate hard (not in areas with pedestrians or towns) I have no doubt the transmission would have lasted longer in a gentler drivers care but I did not get an R to drive slow. I have had the car since Jan 2013, (will be 4 years in a few weeks) it was all good with only minor repairs until recently, now its needing a lot of work.

Given the situation, what do you guys advise?

 

Obvious question why do you think it needs to be replaced?

 

Because it has been sticking in 3rd for a while now when left in drive and goes to upshift after accelerating. I need to hold it in 3rd, get on the highway or pass someone, then lightly tap the brake, then I can upshift and leave it in D. So, that would be get on the on ramp, in 2nd, go to 3rd, make my way on and into the fast lane, hit 83 mph, lightly tap break, hit 80, upshift to 4, 5 and D. If I ever forget, and apply too much power on acceleration, when it goes to upshift back to 4th, Ill get a knock and it will be stuck in 3rd until turned off. I got around that by manually shifting it (well as manual as the J gate is) but it happens more often now and I hear metal squeaking sounds now sometimes. Now also, it will randomly have a metal squeak even at slow acceleration at higher gears, say 55 - 70mph, and not give me power, its slipping. The fluid is not the issue. I had the fluid changed, and showed the mechanic the whole guide on this forum, and stayed there as he did it. There were no metal shavings in the pan or burning in the fluid, it looked very clean. Changing it had no improvement. I brought it in and had it checked by two different transmission shops. They both drove it and hooked it up to the diagnostic computer, and both agreed its a problem between third and fourth gears, and an issue in 5th gear also popped up on the screen although I had not noticed an issue there. Going from what two different places have told me, a computer says, and these forums, (reading past posters who have had similar issues) it needs to be changed.

The only question is, would you say go with the $6200 brand new with a huge warranty option, 3300 used option, or say its too expensive, and more expensive issues will pop up and bail out before its too late?

 

How many miles on your transmission? Can you get the fault codes?

Many people in this forum have solved issues with a transmission flush and fill. With an additional transmission software update sometimes after the flush and fill.

If you have very high mileage and have never had a transmission fluid change then possibly some damage to the transmission.

I am not saying that a transmission fluid change will definitely cure your problem but if I were in your situation I would give it a go first.

If that fails then if the used transmission is low mileage and 43K is low I would go that route IF it has some sort of warranty.

 

Sorry, I guess I edited the second post too late. Did the fluid change, it got no worse and no better. I was hoping it might just be a computer flash, but the squeaking would have me think otherwise now.

 

Thats not good.

 

My thoughts exactly. So would you say $6200 for a brand new 6HP26 and a 5 year, 500,000 mile warranty would be the way to go? I mean after that, nothing short of the engine exploding could be as expensive as that right? In other words, other things may break in the future but nothing on the same scale price wise?

 

Personally I would not spend that far for a new gearbox unless you intend to keep that car forever.
I would go for a rebuilt one with a guarantee such as 1 or 2 years for about 3k as you quote.
So maybe option2 (but what is the real status of that box, how can it be guaranteed?) or 3 if it is repairable.

 

Don't tempt fate. Your air struts could cost quite a bit if they start to go.

Personally I would go for the used low mileage transmission IF it has a warranty.

But then I do my own wrenching. You have to do what makes you comfortable.

 

Hi JTC3400,

My first question is whether the mechanic replaced the transmission electrical connector sealing sleeve when he replaced the fluid. Oil contamination of the electrical connector is a known issue.

Also, was it a complete fluid flush or was it just a drain and refill? Did you use ZF Lifeguard 6, Mercon SP, or some other fluid?

If I'm not mistaken, this shifting problem is known to be associated with one or two specific solenoids or pressure regulator in the valve body which are not difficult to replace or terribly expensive. If the shop that has it now is not one that regularly deals with ZF gearboxes, I would recommend getting a second opinion from a shop that works on transmissions for BMWs, Mercedes, Audis and other makes that use the ZF 6HP26. You may find that the problem can be resolved for a lot less money by a knowledgeable shop.

A good source of ZF parts is California Transmission Supply Co. (Genuine ZF Parts), where you can get a good idea of the cost of various parts.

Of the options available to you, I personally cannot recommend that you spend $6,200 on a new transmission, since you could never hope to recover that much when you resell the car. A good used gearbox or a rebuild of your existing gearbox seem like far more prudent options. As jackra_1 so aptly put it, your air suspension or some other major component could decide to fail. There's always something to spend money on with a Jag.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks to everyone who posted. Sadly, they were confused and the used Transmission is 116k miles, but still has the 2 year warranty. I think 116k is way too much. They won't do a rebuild. The only options I see is the 6k new transmission or to try to get a second opinion, as you have said.

 

On Ebay there are several used transmissions with a 6 month warranty. One I see at 86,000 miles. Well under $2,000 including delivery.

Installing that with a complete flush, new filter and sleeve is what I would do for a 2004 XJR.

 

Agreed.

Definitely get a second opinion. I'm in Don's camp with the valve bodies and I don't know that their much more than a drop and swap. Rebuilt valve bodies can be had for $800. Followed by a full flush and is essentially the same as replacing the tranny.

Jack's advice is also sound. There are enough of these on eBay.

You owe it you yourself to find the right tranny shop. Dropping $6k on a car that's worth $10k isn't a sound financial decision. It might help you to call your insurance agent and just ask @ what price would they total the car assuming an accident which will give you and idea where to cap your investment.