Good day all jag-o-philes. I am happy to say the valley hose fever is behind me. BUT I must return to the problem that led to the discovery of the leaking valley hose!

My ‘09 Portfolio has hat nose in the dirt and I am buffaloed.

I rebuilt the compressor but honestly, it worked better before rebuild.

I have two codes… Leveling plausibility (c2302) and Compressor relay/circuit failure (c1830)

The car is too low to drive meaning the front is so low that the tires scrape the fenders in tight turns… not good.

Also, regarding the relay code, I have read conflicting info. Some say it is relay #4 and some say it is relay #1. I want to check these relays and the socket voltage and grounds. So which is it please?

I look forward to getting the growler back on the road!

Thanks all!
chemosabe

 

It is relay #1.

I would think the C1830 would not be limited to the relay, but could be a wiring fault anywhere between the Air Suspension Module and the power distribution box in the engine compartment. Basically, when it tries to energize the relay it detects no load on that line. It could also be a problem in the ground line under that power block, but I'm sure that would affect many more systems than the air compressor.

The C2302 is triggered when the compressor runs much longer than it should in order to level the car. The module knows what to expect of the compressor as far as pressure in the reservoir and response at the struts, and while a compressor failure can certainly lead to C2302, any number of issues with the valve body, or just plain leaks in the air lines, can also trigger that.

Be aware that once the Air Suspension Module throws a code, it gives up and stops trying to level the car. You will get no compressor activation or anything else until you shut the car off and restart, which resets the ASM, usually just starting the failure cycle over again.

 

Thanks for the input! I am trying to get a game plan together. So based upon what you said, I think I will revisit my last foray into the compressor to check the electrical connections and hoses. I expected the piston rebuild to be the silver bullet. It wasn’t but probably needed to be done. Since it didn’t improve my problem it must have been something else. Still looking for leaks to no avail. Thanks for the tip that the system quits once the code is set. That is very valuable info for me.
THANKS!

Others with input?

chemosabe!

 

Did you check the bore when you replaced the piston ring?
They do sell new cylinders so you can replace the old ones.
Both of mine were scored up pretty badly.
Found them after replacing both of mine.
Now they are both rebuilt, & on the shelf, ready to use