If you had a unit with live data all you need to do is hook scanner to car,go to the abs system, click live data, then all four wheels would show on screen LF,LR,RF,RR. Then beside each wheel click the check box, once checked put car in drive and watch the wave form on the graph. As soon as the car hits 3mph then you should see movement as waveform on each wheel. If you do not have movement showing a signal then you would replace the abs sensor that was flat lined for that tire. If you show good signals all the way around, then next you would check the abs fuse, if fuse is good, and your scanner has actuation, you would select actuate abs pump, if the pump actuates,(you would hear a audible humming sound) then the pump would be good. Usually the abs module would be bad if all else has passed these tests...A good scanner would allow you to code and replace the abs module to car without going to dealer. I know this sounds like a lot but I am giving it to you as a mechanical approach..Good luck...

 

Just as an update on P1000 and P1111, once I got my California smog with a P1000, I didn't put the reader back on since I was tired of always seeing P1000, even after over 1,000 miles (and didn't care anymore). With all this recent talk, I decided to check, and I now have P1111!! No idea when it finally finished all the checks, but I do plenty of around town, highway, stop and go, etc. and couldn't get it to pass. Since it smogged with P1000, I gave up checking. Nice to know it eventually will complete it, but in my case, 30 miles, or 300 miles didn't do it. It was several thousand at least and many, many drive cycles (probably 5-6k miles since I got smogged).

 

Is a function of drive cycles and fuel tank state. Needs to be less than 3/4 of a tank as well which is often an issue.