As the title says, I need to do an oil & filter change but want to make sure what oil & filter to get?
1. I want to use synthetic, what's the preferred choice? Mobil 1? Castrol?
What viscosity, this is Miami so always warm and per manual that would be 0W-40 or 5W-40, I'm thinking Mobil 1 0W-40.

2. The the filter, just get OEM from dealer or?

3. Also, thinking about brake fluid change, any "special" about that or just get regular brake fluid?

4. Then the power steering fluid might need some topping off. Something special there or just regular?

5. And lastly, might do the coolant too, I read that you should go with OEM, true or if not, what to get?

TIA!

 

K&N oil filter and Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30

 

1. any 5w30 syntheic oil ( I prefer Mobil one)
2. any quality filter ( I prefer Wixx) most agree to stay away from Fram
3. DOT4
4. Dextron 3 (I prefer Mobil one ATF)
5. still havn't figured that one out

 

Lots of choices here, and opinions will differ on these choices.

Assuming your car is an X350???

I use 5W30 Castrol Syntec, even in a hot climate like yours, Mobil 1 5w30 if I cannot get the Castrol. The "0W" is not really necessary, unless you drive up to Alaska from Miami a lot, although it will not hurt any either.

Brake Fluid - I use Dot 4 Full Synthetic; at least use Dot 4.

PS - Any GOOD BRAND (not Walmart's brand) Dexron III derivative. I use Castrol Domestic Multi-Vehicle ATF, a DExron III ATF derivative

Coolant in any Jaguar past 1999, a transition year with staggard implementation, uses an OAT coolant formula. It is important not to mix diferent coolant formulas with OAT. OAT commercially is Dexcool (orange). Note, the sticker next to the coolant header cap. I never use the Jaguar branded OAT, but only Dexcool as a replacement coolant.

 

Thanks everyone!

Yep, it's 2004.

I'll get the mobil 0W-30 even though I haven't planned any trips to Alaska, interesting that none of you recommend 40 but I trust you so 30 it is.

The rest seem straightforward as well, I've used Wix on my truck and they certainly have a good reputation. So that's an easy choice.

Good to hear about coolant also.

Transmission I'll probably leave to the dealer...

Thanks a ton, much appreciated.

 

Nothing wrong with the 40, BTW. Most manufacturers now recommend 30 as it is supposed to be the best for mileage which gov'ts push. I've used 30 only for years now and have a good history with it...not that changing oil wieghts has any catastrophic impact on anything. I'm in a relatively hot climate too.

 

You're right, less friction with the lower number so that's what a lot of manufacturers go with nowadays (plus the tolerances are smaller than what they used to be).
If I remember correctly, F1 cars us 10 weight oil in their engines because of less friction (= more HP).

BTW, just to make sure, the Automatic Transmission Fluid you recommend is for Power Steering, correct?

 

Correct - PS fluid = Dexron III ATF

 

Thanks Steve.

 

Why dont you just use the oil it recommends in the manual as per Jag?
Here in the UK Jaguar recommend Castrol Magnatec 5w-30.
The filter...use a Jag one....its got a 1 way valve in it to stop drain back and reduce possible early end to engines when most of the wear occurs on initial start up.The oil Magnatec clings to the metal surfaces so its already there on start up.
Cant understand why owners (especially in USA) use aftermarket filters and oil like K+N and Mobil Oil when the manual clearly recommends what to use?
Have a look at http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castr...ategoryId=3205 and (enter your cars reg number in the UK) or model/type if abroad to see all the specs and fluid recommendations for your car and capacities to use.

 

Buck

Castrol Magnatec is not sold in the states, but its equivalent is Castrol Syntec, which is what and why I use it.

Most of the aftertmarket filters have the anti-drainback too. For me it's more convenience regarding the filter. The dealer is far more inconvenient to get to and deal with to buy a filter than just going to a parts store, plus, at least double or more the price. Same thing with the coolant. The dealer is exceedingly expensive per qt/ltr for an OAT coolant than local commercial brands that fulfill the Jaguar requirement. On top of it, US dealerships are not very standard in their pricing. I've seen/heard about the same Jaguar part selling for quite a spread dealer to dealer.

 

Most means not all i.e. some dont.
I would make sure from whichever manufacturer it has one if not using OE

 

I guess I prefer Mobil because I've used it in my Porsche for a decade although interestingly enough, now use Redline because Mobil changed their formula and it's not good for air cooled engines, Redline and couple of others have the zincsomething that Mobil for enviromental reasons don't have anymore. Fine for new cars but for some older air cooled cars, not.

I might get Castrol, nothing wrong with it (my older 911 always had Castrol 20W-50 in it) although the fact that Jag recommends it doesn't make it any better, manufacturers make their deals with an oil manufacturer and then recommend it.

Thanks for the tip about the filter, I'll make sure the filter has the drainback in it.

 

I should clarify on the anti-drainback. I have used maybe only 3 different filters of the several that might be available for Jaguars, but I lean towards one all the time. All that I've used have an anti-drainback. It's very easy to check just by looking at the top of the filter. More accurately, I wager they all do, as it is a common feature for cartridge filters now, but I don't have first-hand knowledge of every one, thus the caution. Secondly, of the several filter brands available, there are ony 3 or 4 manufacturers that sell under all the available names.

Finn, I agree with you on manufacturer/supplier agreements. It means very little in terms of a technological product match. I happen to like Castrol, but use Mobil 1 too. For me it is more coincidental Jaguar recommends it, but I use either brand in BMWs and MBs too, even though BMW, for example, warns against using any other brand but its own synthetic oil. Another good example of this is ZF's exclusive marketing agreement with ESSO. Has everyone scared that no other supplier can duplicate or exceed Esso's magic 1990's ATF formula for the ZF 5HP24....it's nonsense! Several suppliers have now exceeded the original ESSO formula specs, and the Shell formula for the 6HP26.

I work with a customer base that is sensible and practical about maintaining their cars, all are 2nd/3rd owners from original, but they're not foolish about throwing excessive money at maintenance items for the sake of having the manufacturer's brand/recommendations on replacements.

 

Yep, there's lot more to it than the specs and things like that BMW warning is silly.
Big thanks for all the info & help by the way, I know a thing or two about Porsches, especially the air cooled ones and maybe little about some other motoring but Jag is new and members like you are very valuable to peole like me who need help and/or any to make sure.

 

Hi Flying Finn! Puhutko Suomea? Where are you located?
Thanks,
Sami 616 322 1767

 

Flying Finn, I think you're referring to the reduction in ZDDP in the last few years in the new API grades (all those funny letters in the starburst on a bottle of oil). You can boost up the zddp levels by adding ZDDPlus additive. It's not a magical additive. It simply puts back what the oil makers have had to take out because of the off chance that over the years zddp will decrease catalytic converter effectiveness.

The 4.2L V8 does not have roller followers/lifters and so, in my personal opinion, we would see less risk of cam lobe wear and valve lash increase by restoring ZDDP levels to what they used to be in oils a few years back. The ZPPLus site as well as many others explain this in more detail.

I prefer to stay away from Redline for my daily driver cars. From what I understand, the lubrication chemistry they use is the same that is used in aviation applications but doesn't have the same capability to handle dirt, soot, etc. that more conventional motor oils do.

As far as oil filters are concerned, stevetech is right. OEM filters are made by the same companies that make the filters in the store. In fact, most of the time (and nearly certainly in the case of Jaguar, Ford, GM, etc), the filters are pretty average. Mobil One, Purolator PureOne, and possibly to a lesser degree Napa Gold, K&N, etc. are better in terms of filtration efficiency, case strength, and dirt holding capacity. This web site goes into a lot of detail...
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

BTW, FRAM filters are generally viewed as being crap. Nowadays, FRAM makes filters for Quaker State, Penzoil(?), Canadian Tire and others. It's possible that the FRAM filter media is highly efficient, but there is not enough of it, and the construction of the filter is flimsy to be kind. I personally cut open one of the higher-end FRAM Toughguard filters only to see that the seam where the ends of the filter media were crimped had come apart. This meant that the filter was perpetually bypassing unfiltered oil to the engine. The only decent product FRAM makes is the Xtended Guard oil filter. It's tough but it is still a little short of filter media.

Mike
2004 XJR

 

Great information guys. Thanks and keep it up. It helps us all.

 

Mann oil filters, at least for now.

Amsoil Synthetic 5W40 for European engines.

 

My handbook says 5w30 and seems most replies on this thread are in agreement.
Where in the handbook does it say 5w40?