OK She is starting to really piss me off now!!
#1
OK She is starting to really **** me off now!!
OK been on road for 250 miles now, had the DSC Not available, engine, brake, failure code, shuts car OFF on highway 3 times almost got KILLED trying to get to shoulder on Saturday. Man this is bad, What the hell. Early got the MAF cide, then this big fault which everyone claims in the throttle body. Checked all connections, no moisture, packed them with grease and re connected, reset battery and WHAM 20 min later shuts off AGAIN!! Now my brake lights are stuck on sometimes after leaving car and setting alarm?? Parking brake code and error now on dash!! WTF is it with this "Supercar" very scary and disappointing any help would be greatly appriciated since this is now my only driver.
Still keep getting maf code too even after proper cleaning. Car is a wackjob.
Still keep getting maf code too even after proper cleaning. Car is a wackjob.
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WOW called Cherry Hill Jaguar and guess what a tech tells me? He said ALL the issues less the brake are coming from the throttle body specifically the tps!! Also told me there is ONE part # for the TPS that can and is used on ALL the Jag engines from V6 to 4.2 SC variants it is Denso 198500-3300.
#12
Just ordered a new TPS for the 04 XJR from AIP Electronics
(www.aipelectronics.com), which has worked perfectly for some people that have ordered it It runs about $40 USD.
I'll have it here Friday and I will post updates. If this works it means NO MORE THROTTLE BODY purchases and or rebuilds.
(www.aipelectronics.com), which has worked perfectly for some people that have ordered it It runs about $40 USD.
I'll have it here Friday and I will post updates. If this works it means NO MORE THROTTLE BODY purchases and or rebuilds.
#13
The TPS actually has been available separately for the past few years. Way back in the day, within a month of purchasing my first X350, I got the TPS fault and was charged $1100 by a Jag indie to replace the entire throttle body. This was wayyyy before I ever even thought of doing my own wrenching, and back when X350 parts were still fairly new and expensive. Ugh, makes me feel sick.
BTW, the blacked-out X308 in your pic looks mean.
BTW, the blacked-out X308 in your pic looks mean.
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OnebadassXJR (07-31-2018)
#14
It should run 14.8v for 5~10minutes then drop back to 13.5v. (exact voltages/time from memory)
Although it doesn't sound like your problem.
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OnebadassXJR (07-31-2018)
#15
Hopefully the TPS will solve your other issues, but for this one:
I had this with my XJR, caused by the brake switch (there are two, I think it was the upper switch) being engaged slightly when the pedal was fully retracted. I would suspect that switch. As a first step check the pedal adjustment to ensure there is no play, and that the switch is properly mounted and not loose. If the pedal is tight but the switch activates too soon you can adjust the nut on the linkage and shim the back with washers to increase the distance from activation to rest. You can easily access it all by popping down the felt/carpet panel above your feet.
I had this with my XJR, caused by the brake switch (there are two, I think it was the upper switch) being engaged slightly when the pedal was fully retracted. I would suspect that switch. As a first step check the pedal adjustment to ensure there is no play, and that the switch is properly mounted and not loose. If the pedal is tight but the switch activates too soon you can adjust the nut on the linkage and shim the back with washers to increase the distance from activation to rest. You can easily access it all by popping down the felt/carpet panel above your feet.
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Jakes XJR (08-03-2018),
OnebadassXJR (07-31-2018)
#16
Had the same on my x358 and after cleaning connections, replacing the MAF, the throttle body etc it turned out to be the pedal position sensor housed within the accelerator pedal. Ironically it was the cheapest of all the parts I had changed coming in at £90 Inc vat from the dealer.
These fly by wire systems mean there is no physical connection between accelerator pedal (which contains two wipers that each pass over a strip on a board within the pedal) and throttle body so when signals don't tally the car doesn't know where the throttle plate is and as it could be wide open at that point it goes into fail safe knocking out some of the cylinders and restricting the power, as you say very unnerving when it happens!
So far so good with mine after replacing this but I will also be checking my brake switches now as described above.
These fly by wire systems mean there is no physical connection between accelerator pedal (which contains two wipers that each pass over a strip on a board within the pedal) and throttle body so when signals don't tally the car doesn't know where the throttle plate is and as it could be wide open at that point it goes into fail safe knocking out some of the cylinders and restricting the power, as you say very unnerving when it happens!
So far so good with mine after replacing this but I will also be checking my brake switches now as described above.
The following users liked this post:
OnebadassXJR (07-31-2018)
#17
Hopefully the TPS will solve your other issues, but for this one:
I had this with my XJR, caused by the brake switch (there are two, I think it was the upper switch) being engaged slightly when the pedal was fully retracted. I would suspect that switch. As a first step check the pedal adjustment to ensure there is no play, and that the switch is properly mounted and not loose. If the pedal is tight but the switch activates too soon you can adjust the nut on the linkage and shim the back with washers to increase the distance from activation to rest. You can easily access it all by popping down the felt/carpet panel above your feet.
I had this with my XJR, caused by the brake switch (there are two, I think it was the upper switch) being engaged slightly when the pedal was fully retracted. I would suspect that switch. As a first step check the pedal adjustment to ensure there is no play, and that the switch is properly mounted and not loose. If the pedal is tight but the switch activates too soon you can adjust the nut on the linkage and shim the back with washers to increase the distance from activation to rest. You can easily access it all by popping down the felt/carpet panel above your feet.
Great point. Also I had noticed just recently that when I push the brake pedal slight;y it is harder to push for a second, then it "pops" and depresses. Not an audible pop but thats the only way I can describe it, feels as if the pedal needs oil lol.
#18
Had the same on my x358 and after cleaning connections, replacing the MAF, the throttle body etc it turned out to be the pedal position sensor housed within the accelerator pedal. Ironically it was the cheapest of all the parts I had changed coming in at £90 Inc vat from the dealer.
These fly by wire systems mean there is no physical connection between accelerator pedal (which contains two wipers that each pass over a strip on a board within the pedal) and throttle body so when signals don't tally the car doesn't know where the throttle plate is and as it could be wide open at that point it goes into fail safe knocking out some of the cylinders and restricting the power, as you say very unnerving when it happens!
So far so good with mine after replacing this but I will also be checking my brake switches now as described above.
These fly by wire systems mean there is no physical connection between accelerator pedal (which contains two wipers that each pass over a strip on a board within the pedal) and throttle body so when signals don't tally the car doesn't know where the throttle plate is and as it could be wide open at that point it goes into fail safe knocking out some of the cylinders and restricting the power, as you say very unnerving when it happens!
So far so good with mine after replacing this but I will also be checking my brake switches now as described above.
The following users liked this post:
OnebadassXJR (07-31-2018)
#19
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