You could first take the shocks off of the car.
Install an air valve, to air up the shock.
With a paint brush, apply plenty of fluid to let soak, you can always repaint..
Repeat several times, letting it soak in without the air at first.
Later add air to see if it holds pressure, just might work

 

Yes. May have to go to that. My first try would be to external spritz so less work would be required! If it was off i may consider injecting a little ATF into the air inlet while upside down and extend/retract manually a few times, while upside down, to get the oil into the seal.

 

A T F put inside, upside down would be worth a try

 

Very interesting suggestions.

So, I purchased an Autel MaxiCheck MX808 scanner to be able to do a DEF regen on my MB diesel, and to look at tranny and air suspension codes on the Jag.

I was pretty shocked at the number of codes that came up in all areas of the car (especially since the engine light is off), but there are a total of five direct codes on air suspension, plus three others.

Here are the air suspension-related codes:


ASU (Air Suspension Module) C2303 Reservoir plausibility error.
ASU (Air Suspension Module) U2523 CAN message timeout from the engine control module.
ASU (Air Suspension Module) U2518 Rear climate control module CAN messaging is missing.
ASU (Air Suspension Module) U1900 CAN communications bus fault.
ASU (Air Suspension Module) C2302 Levelling plausibility error.

ECM (Engine Control Module) P1672 CAN link, engine control module to air suspension module network malfunction.
IP (Instrument Pack) U2524 Data missing for air suspension.
ATC (Climate Control Module) U2516 Air suspension module bus off.

I thought I did a data capture while driving over the weekend when I got the Air Suspension Fault message in my dash, but I can't figure out how to find the stored data in the unit. Guess I'm going to have to pull out the manual.....

BTW, I don't have a ride height gauge. Does anyone have measurements from the bottom lip of the fender at the top to the ground? Granted, tires may be slightly different, but it would be nice to get some sort of indication of where it is supposed to be. I could probably just pull the Jag cap off the wheel and use a tape measure to the fender; when it drops, it drops a lot, so it would be nice to know what it's supposed to be.

I've also gotten some very weird air pressure readings while driving around. Does anyone know what it should be? I have a 'T' in my line to the left front shock, and ran the hose into the passenger compartment (taped it on top of the steering column). Both front shocks seem to be connected to the same air line since they both go up or down together. I've found that the highest pressure I've seen is about 135PSI (tonight going to a store, and looking at it when I got back to the car). The front seems to drop when it is less than about 105PSI; I can get the Air Suspension Error message even when there is still about 100-105PSI in the line. So it seems that I need at least 110-135PSI to keep it from dropping in the front.

I haven't really seen rhyme or reason on pressure. For example, since the car is supposed to lower at higher speeds (don't know what that threshold is), I've watched to see what the pressure is when driving slow and going 70mph+, and I have not see any difference in the pressure (certainly not with any regularity). If someone has some expected PSU numbers for different speeds, that would be great (even static when stopped).

Also, I've noticed that when I get the Air Suspension Fault message, it's the fronts that have dropped, not the rears.

I'm hoping to hear of good reports on reasonably priced 3rd part replacement air shocks. I'm not going to put Blitzsteins on it when I have a tranny issue (issue when hot, but that's for another thread).

How I just have to find out what exactly all of these codes mean....

Gordon

 

I hate to say this since it comes up so often - It looks like you have a battery/ground problem somewhere in your system. Unfortunately we can not know which order the faults occurred however its possible that as soon as the compressor kicks in you are getting a severe voltage drop. Plausibility errors are usually time rated in that a function does not complete in the expected time. Insufficient battery voltage/current will prevent the pump/valves working at rated capacity.
Also when the voltage drops comm errors start to happen. The lost modules may give an indication of where the ground/battery fault may be.
Although you have a leak, since the car drops, it does not look like that is the first thing to fix.

 

Very good point. I'll have to check compressor grounds. As soon as I figure out how to get to the valves I'll check that as well. I got a bunch of weird data when driving today. I supposedly recorded it all, but haven't figured out how to play it back. PSI sensor as all over the place, from as low as abour 45PSI to around 150PSI, yet the actual pressure to the front shocks ranged from 100 to 120. The fronts height sensors were both low although they varied. Since I was driving, I didn't see much, so hopefully I'll figure out how to replay the data.