XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Please tell me what these 3 parts are called

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  #21  
Old 06-22-2021 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by the brain
no im wrong, camber is the same in both languages...ah i hate spanish
caída = camber

right is fine left is messed up
 
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2021 | 04:06 PM
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ok assuming its the left rear lower wishbone, do i have to get a complete unit or i can get away with just the outer bushing? something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392914747...cAAOSwGMVfPn8i

thanks for your help
 
  #23  
Old 06-22-2021 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by the brain
ok assuming its the left rear lower wishbone, do i have to get a complete unit or i can get away with just the outer bushing? something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392914747...cAAOSwGMVfPn8i

thanks for your help
buy a complete arm don’t mess around with poly
 
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  #24  
Old 06-22-2021 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by xalty
buy a complete arm don’t mess around with poly
I agree, especially as there will be no saving once you've bought all the bushes and paid somebody to press them in. Especially when whole wishbones cost this sort of money: -
https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...85-c2x18761721
https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...86-c2x18761726

As for the brake hoses, the service schedule for my 2017 XE advises that all the flexible hoses be replaced at the third service, (or every 6 years). Your X350 looks to be in need of much care and attention.
 
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  #25  
Old 06-28-2021 | 08:12 PM
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Hi Guys, Im trying to establish why i have this rear left wheel that wont align. I went to the mechanic again today and he seems to think the rear tie rod/toe link is the culprit, which I replaced a few weeks ago with a new one. He said theres play in the ball joint. Heres a video...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18dE...ew?usp=sharing

Would that small amount of play be enough to cause this alignment problem? Just confused should I buy another new tie rod/toe link or change the wishbones first...or change both. Costs starting to creep up on my little non-runner project....and after I got off to a good start with fixing the rat infestation myself :-)
 
  #26  
Old 06-29-2021 | 01:43 AM
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Change whats obvious first, thats loose so start there, budget tie rods are notorious for premature failure,use Moog,Lemforder or Jaguar.The issue may be a combination of components.
 

Last edited by MCFastybloke; 06-29-2021 at 02:10 AM.
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2021 | 02:55 PM
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Ive replaced all the brake lines on the rear where they go from the caliper to the union, but the metal brake line that goes from that union to another union half way down the car, that's rusted also. So I was wondering if I can replace that with maybe a rubber pipe or flexible metal type pipe as it's a big job to remove all the stuff to get to it and would prefer to feed something through instead, what do you think guys?



 
  #28  
Old 07-13-2021 | 03:09 PM
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you don’t need to remove anything to replace the rear brake lines. feed the line that goes to the left side through the middle of the diff area. easier to do with two people and have them pull the line for you while you’re under the car. getting the clips in on the right hand side is the hardest part.

if you want to make a custom copper pipe the side with the female union is SAE double flare and the one with male flare nuts are DIN/ISO bubble flare.

factory part is C2C29560
 

Last edited by xalty; 07-13-2021 at 03:15 PM.
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  #29  
Old 07-13-2021 | 03:54 PM
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i found https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...b-212ff5de9fad

theres two listed, C2C29560 at 41 euro and C2C29560K at 21 euro, which one do i need? (hoping for 21 :-)
 
  #30  
Old 07-13-2021 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by xalty
you don’t need to remove anything to replace the rear brake lines. feed the line that goes to the left side through the middle of the diff area. easier to do with two people and have them pull the line for you while you’re under the car. getting the clips in on the right hand side is the hardest part.

if you want to make a custom copper pipe the side with the female union is SAE double flare and the one with male flare nuts are DIN/ISO bubble flare.

factory part is C2C29560
thats great info, thanks alot. I did read something about an american guy making the lines with copper alloy mix pipe or something, maybe i can find someone who does that now i know the union sizes
 
  #31  
Old 07-13-2021 | 04:14 PM
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I think ill have to find someone to do that, make the copper pipes as sng barret want 226 euro to ship it to me, crazy price
 
  #32  
Old 07-13-2021 | 04:21 PM
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K and regular are identical

the K kits are old stock from 2009 when the brake line recall was issued
 
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  #33  
Old 07-13-2021 | 05:35 PM
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Why not do it yourself the brain?
Just cover the end, fish it through, then make the bends.
Putting the connectors on the line, before flaring it helps a lot..
Leave some extra line just in case.
Make your double flairs, then connect.
Use zip ties to fasten where needed
Bleed the brakes, then go for a drive.
My double flair kit came from Harbor Freight.
Not expensive at all, & it works well on this material..

 
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  #34  
Old 07-13-2021 | 05:46 PM
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I don't have the tools and don't know what is a double flair or any of that stuff, and even if I YouTubed it up, wouldn't be confident I did it right with such an important part. And it's not like I wanna crawl under there every day to check it's not leaking :-)

And where I live, there are some crazy roads bending around the sierra nevada mountains (the original ones in spain) and if my brakes failed Id be a gonna :-)
 

Last edited by the brain; 07-13-2021 at 06:40 PM.
  #35  
Old 08-04-2021 | 11:54 AM
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so after calculating how much it would cost to replace upper and lower wishbones, and VAT, and delivery, it works out much cheaper to buy just the bushes and have them pressed in. Shipping to spain and now with the brexit taxes!

on the rear lower wishbones I read that there is 2 sizes of inner bush (14mm or 16mm) and without stripping it down is does anyone know what would be in mine. My vin is G30544

many thanks
 
  #36  
Old 08-04-2021 | 11:59 AM
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pressing them in is not fun and will cost you in labor. sometimes the surface has to be machined
 
  #37  
Old 08-04-2021 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by xalty
pressing them in is not fun and will cost you in labor. sometimes the surface has to be machined
yeah I've just been reading about the experience, sounds a nightmare

admittedly I don't know how much it would cost me to get them removed and pressed in, but I can get the 4 upper bush and 4 lower outer bush lemforder for a total of 175 euro inc tax and shipping. Alternatively 2x upper wishbone = 250 euro and 2x lower wishbone = 372 euro, total 622 plus shipping
 

Last edited by the brain; 08-04-2021 at 01:03 PM.
  #38  
Old 08-04-2021 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by the brain
yeah I've just been reading about the experience, sounds a nightmare

admittedly I don't know how much it would cost me to get them removed and pressed in, but I can get the 4 upper bush and 4 lower outer bush lemforder for a total of 175 euro inc tax and shipping. Alternatively 2x upper wishbone = 250 euro and 2x lower wishbone = 372 euro, total 622 plus shipping
buy used upper arms from a breakers yard to save money, get the newest you can find.

XF 2009 to 2015

XJ 2010 to 2019

F-Type 2014 to 2018
 
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the brain (08-04-2021)
  #39  
Old 08-04-2021 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by xalty
buy used upper arms from a breakers yard to save money, get the newest you can find.

XF 2009 to 2015

XJ 2010 to 2019

F-Type 2014 to 2018
Thats great Thanks. There are quite a few I found.
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-350590638.htm
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-333816400.htm
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-300189185.htm
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-351760106.htm
 
  #40  
Old 08-04-2021 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by xalty
buy used upper arms from a breakers yard to save money, get the newest you can find.

XF 2009 to 2015

XJ 2010 to 2019

F-Type 2014 to 2018
ahh right, just upper are cross-compatible? Thanks
 


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