Please tell me what these 3 parts are called
#22
ok assuming its the left rear lower wishbone, do i have to get a complete unit or i can get away with just the outer bushing? something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392914747...cAAOSwGMVfPn8i
thanks for your help
thanks for your help
#23
ok assuming its the left rear lower wishbone, do i have to get a complete unit or i can get away with just the outer bushing? something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392914747...cAAOSwGMVfPn8i
thanks for your help
thanks for your help
The following users liked this post:
the brain (06-22-2021)
#24
I agree, especially as there will be no saving once you've bought all the bushes and paid somebody to press them in. Especially when whole wishbones cost this sort of money: -
https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...85-c2x18761721
https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...86-c2x18761726
As for the brake hoses, the service schedule for my 2017 XE advises that all the flexible hoses be replaced at the third service, (or every 6 years). Your X350 looks to be in need of much care and attention.
https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...85-c2x18761721
https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...86-c2x18761726
As for the brake hoses, the service schedule for my 2017 XE advises that all the flexible hoses be replaced at the third service, (or every 6 years). Your X350 looks to be in need of much care and attention.
The following users liked this post:
the brain (06-22-2021)
#25
Hi Guys, Im trying to establish why i have this rear left wheel that wont align. I went to the mechanic again today and he seems to think the rear tie rod/toe link is the culprit, which I replaced a few weeks ago with a new one. He said theres play in the ball joint. Heres a video...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18dE...ew?usp=sharing
Would that small amount of play be enough to cause this alignment problem? Just confused should I buy another new tie rod/toe link or change the wishbones first...or change both. Costs starting to creep up on my little non-runner project....and after I got off to a good start with fixing the rat infestation myself :-)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18dE...ew?usp=sharing
Would that small amount of play be enough to cause this alignment problem? Just confused should I buy another new tie rod/toe link or change the wishbones first...or change both. Costs starting to creep up on my little non-runner project....and after I got off to a good start with fixing the rat infestation myself :-)
#27
Ive replaced all the brake lines on the rear where they go from the caliper to the union, but the metal brake line that goes from that union to another union half way down the car, that's rusted also. So I was wondering if I can replace that with maybe a rubber pipe or flexible metal type pipe as it's a big job to remove all the stuff to get to it and would prefer to feed something through instead, what do you think guys?
#28
you don’t need to remove anything to replace the rear brake lines. feed the line that goes to the left side through the middle of the diff area. easier to do with two people and have them pull the line for you while you’re under the car. getting the clips in on the right hand side is the hardest part.
if you want to make a custom copper pipe the side with the female union is SAE double flare and the one with male flare nuts are DIN/ISO bubble flare.
factory part is C2C29560
if you want to make a custom copper pipe the side with the female union is SAE double flare and the one with male flare nuts are DIN/ISO bubble flare.
factory part is C2C29560
Last edited by xalty; 07-13-2021 at 03:15 PM.
The following users liked this post:
the brain (07-13-2021)
#29
i found https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...b-212ff5de9fad
theres two listed, C2C29560 at 41 euro and C2C29560K at 21 euro, which one do i need? (hoping for 21 :-)
theres two listed, C2C29560 at 41 euro and C2C29560K at 21 euro, which one do i need? (hoping for 21 :-)
#30
you don’t need to remove anything to replace the rear brake lines. feed the line that goes to the left side through the middle of the diff area. easier to do with two people and have them pull the line for you while you’re under the car. getting the clips in on the right hand side is the hardest part.
if you want to make a custom copper pipe the side with the female union is SAE double flare and the one with male flare nuts are DIN/ISO bubble flare.
factory part is C2C29560
if you want to make a custom copper pipe the side with the female union is SAE double flare and the one with male flare nuts are DIN/ISO bubble flare.
factory part is C2C29560
#33
Why not do it yourself the brain?
Just cover the end, fish it through, then make the bends.
Putting the connectors on the line, before flaring it helps a lot..
Leave some extra line just in case.
Make your double flairs, then connect.
Use zip ties to fasten where needed
Bleed the brakes, then go for a drive.
My double flair kit came from Harbor Freight.
Not expensive at all, & it works well on this material..
Just cover the end, fish it through, then make the bends.
Putting the connectors on the line, before flaring it helps a lot..
Leave some extra line just in case.
Make your double flairs, then connect.
Use zip ties to fasten where needed
Bleed the brakes, then go for a drive.
My double flair kit came from Harbor Freight.
Not expensive at all, & it works well on this material..
The following users liked this post:
the brain (07-13-2021)
#34
I don't have the tools and don't know what is a double flair or any of that stuff, and even if I YouTubed it up, wouldn't be confident I did it right with such an important part. And it's not like I wanna crawl under there every day to check it's not leaking :-)
And where I live, there are some crazy roads bending around the sierra nevada mountains (the original ones in spain) and if my brakes failed Id be a gonna :-)
And where I live, there are some crazy roads bending around the sierra nevada mountains (the original ones in spain) and if my brakes failed Id be a gonna :-)
Last edited by the brain; 07-13-2021 at 06:40 PM.
#35
so after calculating how much it would cost to replace upper and lower wishbones, and VAT, and delivery, it works out much cheaper to buy just the bushes and have them pressed in. Shipping to spain and now with the brexit taxes!
on the rear lower wishbones I read that there is 2 sizes of inner bush (14mm or 16mm) and without stripping it down is does anyone know what would be in mine. My vin is G30544
many thanks
on the rear lower wishbones I read that there is 2 sizes of inner bush (14mm or 16mm) and without stripping it down is does anyone know what would be in mine. My vin is G30544
many thanks
#37
admittedly I don't know how much it would cost me to get them removed and pressed in, but I can get the 4 upper bush and 4 lower outer bush lemforder for a total of 175 euro inc tax and shipping. Alternatively 2x upper wishbone = 250 euro and 2x lower wishbone = 372 euro, total 622 plus shipping
Last edited by the brain; 08-04-2021 at 01:03 PM.
#38
yeah I've just been reading about the experience, sounds a nightmare
admittedly I don't know how much it would cost me to get them removed and pressed in, but I can get the 4 upper bush and 4 lower outer bush lemforder for a total of 175 euro inc tax and shipping. Alternatively 2x upper wishbone = 250 euro and 2x lower wishbone = 372 euro, total 622 plus shipping
admittedly I don't know how much it would cost me to get them removed and pressed in, but I can get the 4 upper bush and 4 lower outer bush lemforder for a total of 175 euro inc tax and shipping. Alternatively 2x upper wishbone = 250 euro and 2x lower wishbone = 372 euro, total 622 plus shipping
XF 2009 to 2015
XJ 2010 to 2019
F-Type 2014 to 2018
The following users liked this post:
the brain (08-04-2021)
#39
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-350590638.htm
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-333816400.htm
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-300189185.htm
https://www.milanuncios.com/otros-re...-351760106.htm
#40