So a tireshop broke off one of my studs. They will pay for the rapair, but when I spoke to the dealer apparently they want to replace the complete hub. Is it possible to replace the stud only? I'd rather do that as I know every time you touch the wheel bearing it shortens its lifespan. This is in the rear btw on a 2006 xj8.

 

Yes

 

Perfectly possible to replace them - I got mine out of an old S Type at the breakers.

 

Had a wheel stud break off on each of my 2005 x350s.

The Lincoln ls wheel studs are suitable and available nearly anywhere. They are cheap and nearly any mechanic or tire spot can remove the broken part and replace with a new.

Should be a sub $100 job.

Thanks -mag

 

Yes. You can replace just the wheel stud. 2007 Vanden Plas. Go to O'Reillys and get part # 610-484 (Dorman wheel stud 12x1.5, it's 2 inches long) I replaced one on the rear driver side. After taking my lugs off to put on my summer wheels, I went to use my air impact gun and one of the studs became stripped (see photo). I removed the caliper and rotor. The problem i ran into was there was not enough of clearance to pop the stud because an odd piece of metal on the caliper obstructed the stud to come out. This is why they say you have to remove the hub. I was not going to do all that. Solution: I took my Dewalt cut -off wheel and grinded down about 1/4 inch of steel and BAM! it came out. it took me about 2 min.... I put everything back together total time was about 1.5 hrs and $3.79. second photo show what i grinded.






this is the only position the hub can be in in order for the stud to come out.





Flathead shows what i grinded





My original wheel stud i needed to replace

 

But how do you actually remove and replace the stud?

 

I expect you need it as shown in the pic and then force it out. See if someone has tips on the best way. BFH is last resort I think.

 

Unless you dismantle the entire hub, I found it easier to grind down 1/4 inch of metal to properly position the hub so the stud comes out. You need to use heat, a torch works best for about 60 seconds and use a hammer to punch it out.

 

I bought 20 studs, planning on replacing all of mine. When I attempted to remove the old rusty stud, I found that no matter how I rotated the hub there was no room behind it to get the stud out.

I used a wire wheel cup on my angle grinder instead and cleaned off all the rust. I then treated with Ospho and added a very light coat of copper high temp anti seize grease.

I still have a box of 20 studs that I couldn't install.

 

The head tech at my local Firestone replaced my broken stud in less than an hour, with no modifications. I don't know how he did it.

 

Mr. W, When i did mine, I struggled trying to position the hub so I can pop out the stud. But it seems there was something in the way no matter how I rotated it. With everything apart i needed to get it done. I grinded a 1/4 inch piece of steel ( see pic) and i was able to do it. I am sure there is a more professional way of ding it, I just don't know how.
I have to imagine there is more disassembly involved to do it right.

 

Brother, did you ever get those studs installed? how much $? and how did you do it?

 

I also used the Dorman 610-484 (readily available, I got 4 for $6) and exact replacements for original studs. I used a torch to heat up the broken stud, tapped with a hammer (not too hard) and out it came right out. Replacement is a little trickier, you need to turn off EPB, put car in neutral and turn the wheel until you match the opening exactly where the spindle has a gap. Lube up the new stud, put in in the opening and tap in with a rod of similar thickness. After a few taps it goes right in! Lube helps save damage on the threads, tight fit, but I know for a fact it works as I did it twice. You need to seat the new stud with a spacer, like a wheel stud installer (Lisle 22800) or similar. Whole process done in about 20 minutes if you have all the right parts on hand. Be patient with tapping in the new stud as if you are not, you will damage the threads.

 

Maybe asking a silly question, but considering the stud has a flat head wider than the threaded part, doesn't it have to be hammered from behind the hub where it is inserted (which looks difficult because of lack of space), and if so, how do you proceed?

 

Serge, absolutely, you can only install from the back, after you jack up the car and put jack stands under (never get under the car with just a jack). From the back, you will see toward the front of the car, the area that has the gap in the spindle. See photo in above post. My point is you can navigate between the raised area and not need to grind down as ShineBox2 has done. Harder to navigate new stud in, but absolutely can be done. With the car raised, you can get behind it enough to see what I am referring to and you will see why you need a rod to tap it in. Be careful with the Electronic Parking Brake, which is just above this area. You do not want to hit that accidentally. Good Luck!

 

Just to add to the tips from shinebox2 and carricrf, if you can't press a stud in from the rear, you can get the stud started into place by hand, then stack some washers on the threaded end of the stud to simulate the thickness of the wheel, install a lug nut and slowly tighten it to draw the stud home.

If you don't have any washers of the proper diameter, you can install the wheel and then tighten a lug nut until the stud is fully seated, but the stack of washers is the safer method since there is a risk of applying too much force to the wheel and deforming the alloy.

Cheers,

Don

 

To properly install studs, you do not ever hit them with anything. You draw them in by using a nut, with a spacer between the nut and stud, just large enough to not interfere with the threads, but thick enough to rest on the spindle and draw the stud fully in. Get a 1/2" breaker bar or large torque wrench.

 

I have replaced many wheel studs in my life and agree with Don B and Box, you simply put the stud in as far as you can from behind and "press" it in place from the front. And simply check that it is fully seated after you tighten in from the front. The washer seating procedure is perfect for alloy wheels that we all have on our Jags.

RyeJag

 

So, since this is directly related I won't make a new thread but I'm back to replacing studs...

About a year ago I had an incident at Discount Tire of Oak Lawn IL where they damaged my wheel stud while swapping my summer tires for winter tires. So they swapped the 3 tires and sent me on my way to get the stud fixed (huge pain on a jaguar) and told me to come back. When I came back a week later, another salesman gave me a hard time about swapping the 4th tire that the tires are 10 years old and tried to upsell me, altho a week earlier they had no problem swapping the other 3 tires with matching dates. I was treated unprofessionally and extremely rudely to the point that I sent a complaint email to upper management which resulted in me getting 4 brand new tires and an apology.

Fast forward to yesterday. I wanted to do my brakes. Turns out the shop overtightened my wheels. One wheel came off like butter. The other 3 have been tightened on max with an impact wrench to the point that I can't take them off with an impact wrench for a semi truck even after soaking them in wd-40 overnight. I assume that the tech was trying to retaliate against my complaint. All of my lugnuts are ruined and I need multiple studs replaced. Most of my anger at this situation is with the fact that my wife has been driving this car for the past year with my 3 year old son. Overtightened lug nuts can cause the wheels to break off.

So, I already know how to do the back. How do I do the front on an x350? Does the hub assembly have to come off or just the disk?

 

It might be easier to just completely replace the front hubs. They're about $80 for the pair...more costly than $2 studs but it might save you a lot of time and hassle.