Hi everybody,

My X356 has shown increasing weakness of the driver's (front left) original Bilstein air shock, especially when cold, with a substantial leak at the top seals that would only cure itself when the engine bay becomes warm enough.
I have read many of the related air suspension threads and learnt a lot from this community (thanks to everybody and to DonB in particular) and I know time has come to replace the failing shock.

I have been convinced that I better keep the air suspension ride specific to the X350/358, and even more for that 2006 Super V8 Portfolio.
I have made my choice to go for a couple of new front B4 Bilstein air shocks (Box's recommendation) that I have sourced for 1550 Euros (shipment included), best price I found in the EU thanks to a link provided by a fellow forumer. Here again:
https://www.x1-autoteile.de/index.ph...oupnode=100121

Initially I intended to have this work performed by my Jaguar specialist, but considering the info available and thinking that it did not require heavy efforts and knowledge but careful work, I realised that it may be doable by myself if I have the right tools (I'm not a mechanic but I can understand and play with tools).

To start moving, the following thread looks to me very useful:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ent-faq-35024/
However it's a bit old and I thought I would start another one.

I have also carefully studied the related videos from Arnott and from Bilstein :

I realise though that these videos differ on the methodology on some points that may be important (the thread above points out one of these issues), the difference being in particular that in the Bilstein process they recommend removing the front height sensor (and to disconnect the brake line attachment) not to damage them during the suspension movements when replacing the shock.
Also in the Arnott video they recommend to disconnect the battery ground while this seems not required in the Bistein process.
Finally, in the Bilstein video they calibrate the height of the suspensions during the downing of the car, while this seems unnecessary in the Arnott video where the car maybe recuperates its height calibrations stored from the ASM memory.

The reason of this thread is therefore to gather further info and advice to embark safely on that enterprise and avoid becoming stuck during the process.
First I will probably be alone to do the work.
I don't have a lift but only two floor jacks that I intend to use in tandem on each side of the front end to raise/lower the car and a number of axle stands, the place in my garage is also constrained.
I have usual tools (spanners, screwdrivers, socket sets with 1/4" and 1/2" drives and dynamometric wrenches).
I also purchased a set of Torx sockets including the required T60.
I don't have though an impact wrench but already have a compressor and was wondering if that would not be an essential in case of blocked nuts.
And I also have a VCM (from Cambo) and a SDD loaded laptop to possibly recalibrate the suspensions heights in case of bad maneuver.
My questions:
- is it doable to do the job alone?
- are there specific tools or products (for sealing/tightening, new nuts, etc.) that should be considered?
- do you think it's necessary to disconnect the ground before starting?
- do you think it's better to remove the front height sensor (and to disconnect the brake line attachment) to avoid damages?
- is it necessary to strictly use all the specified torque indications when tightening the nuts?
- would you recommend to also change other maintenance components (bushes, *****, suspension arms, etc.) during the same operation if easy enough to do and if they turn out to be worn?
- any other useful and latest recommendations?

Thank you for your help.
I's a long post but probably because I am a bit scared to start this work on my own...
When weather will warm up and I can start the process, I will inform of my progress and try putting a few pics.

 

If you have got a workbench available, then nothing to be scared of.
Reason I say this is that the lower shock mount bolts can be very difficult to remove due to corrosion. This is why a lot of shops will not quote prices to replace the lower shock mount bushes. My local shop told me that occasionally they have to remove the shock and lower wishbone straight arm together, and then cut the bolt on the workbench. Once the two are separated then the rest of the job is straightforward. In my own case, however, they were able to undo the bolt OK.

I assume you are reasonably competent at carrying out suspension and brake jobs.


My questions:
- is it doable to do the job alone?
I would say so. Once the shock top and bottom mounting bolts are undone, and the top electric and air connections disconnected, the shock unit should come away in the same way as a McPherson strut.

- are there specific tools or products (for sealing/tightening, new nuts, etc.) that should be considered?
No special tools and no parts needed AFAIK, apart from the shock itself, (unless you had to cut the lower bolt to get the shock off).

- do you think it's necessary to disconnect the ground before starting?
Not something I know anything about, but the ASM software has code to recognise when workshop operations are in progress. After all, it is able to recognise the raising of a corner to change a wheel !

- do you think it's better to remove the front height sensor (and to disconnect the brake line attachment) to avoid damages?
I'll let others post advice on this one, as I've never done the job, but Bilstein normally know what they are talking about, but mechanics tend to develop workarounds to avoid unnecessary work

- is it necessary to strictly use all the specified torque indications when tightening the nuts?
I would say yes. I assume you have a torque wrench

- would you recommend to also change other maintenance components (bushes, *****, suspension arms, etc.) during the same operation if easy enough to do and if they turn out to be worn?
Yes, as you'll have to disconnect the air/shock unit to do these jobs. Downside is the cost of the job in parts goes up a lot. (Your labour is free, of course !!)

- any other useful and latest recommendations?
Lay in an ample supply of beer/malt whiskey/cigars etc for comfort after the job is done, or you run into difficulties. Always best to have a rest and return in the morning,.

 

I did this job myself 5 or 6 years ago on my 05 XJR and then again on my 07 XK. Both turned out well but I sure wish I had those videos back then.

 

It's very do-able with one person. Just pay attention to the Bilstein instruction video. I did mine in a morning. You do not need to disconnect the battery, in fact you'll need to start the vehicle during the process. If you can get your hands on a couple of drive on ramps, use them to support the vehicle to do the final torque on the lower bolts as per the video.

 

Thank you for the valuable comments, recommendations and encouragements, including ample supply of liquids to go through the challenge (for me)!
Again, I do not have much space in my garage but hopefully enough to do the work inside if I need to do it during more than one day.
I indeed have a couple of ramps and also have kind of a workbench to possibly handle not too heavy components, should I need to do so. And I have torque wrenches.
I am not familiar with suspensions or brakes job, actually it would be my first real mechanic work. Beforehand I have only performed very simple work on my cars such as oil and filter changes or changing wheels. But there should be a first time!
I intend to make a first trial raising the front end and removing a wheel to evaluate what the access and issues may be and gain confidence: to see in particular if some bolts would look rusted, or may be very tight or seized.

 

You can do it, paydase!

Just a couple of things I'll add to the excellent input you've already received:

1. You probably already know this if you've hefted the new air springs/dampers, but they are pretty heavy. I don't know about the Bilstein video but the Arnott video tells you to remove the top nuts (I think the female narrator calls them bolts) before removing the lower shock bolt. This means that once you get that big Torx-headed bolt out, the shock may just fall out and hurt you. So my recommendation would be to loosen the top nuts but only remove two of them so the unit remains supported while you remove the lower bolt. Once the lower bolt is out, you can support the unit with one hand and remove the remaining two top nuts with your other hand, then use both hands to withdraw the unit.

2. When you reinstall the new units, as you are working the top studs into the holes in the suspension tower, pay attention to the orientation of the lower shock bushing to be sure it will align with the control arm. Hand thread a couple of nuts on top studs to hold the unit while you get the lower shock bolt started and threaded most of the way in.

3. Having torque wrenches will save you a lot of headaches, because the biggest mistakes folks tend to make are to overtighten things like the air spring top nuts, ball joint nuts, etc. Don't do it! The factory torque is enough.

4. You won't be able to use your torque wrench on the air hose fittings, and lots of owners have caused problems by overtightening them. My best advice is to tighten them as far as you can by hand, then just snug them up with a wrench. It doesn't take much force to seal things up.

5. As Fraser mentioned, this would be a great time to replace some of the suspension bushes if you are prepared to do so, but at the very least it would be a great time to replace the boots on the upper control arm ball joints. See Sean's recent thread on this topic.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you again, Don.
Your recommendations about the sequence of nut removals and shock handling are precious.
I will also use my torque wrenches as far as possible. Iv'e got a 1/2" one (20-120 Nm, I hope it's enough) and a small one (1/4", 2.5-25 Nm) for small torques. Thank you for the renewed recommendation regarding the air spring top nuts, I know they are critical.
I will make my mind on the other replaceables (I've noticed Sean's thread) once I see their condition upon first examination.
Will keep you posted when I make progress.

 

Hi Serge - You can do it When I replaced mine I disconnected the battery ground but others pulled a fuse so vehicle remembers the suspension settings when you restart the car. I definitely recommend disconnecting one side of the height sensor, be gentle and the rubber connector can just be prized off - this is to avoid damaging the sensor by over extending its travel. The T60 has a very high torque so I think you need to follow the torque setting

Good luck

 

Don B mentioned it in passing, the "Torx-headed bolt". These are not really specialised tools anymore, (they were when I was rebuilding a car), but you cannot get the lower bolt out without the correct Torx socket. Somebody on here will tell you the size you need. Normally, these are sold as a set, like a traditional socket set

 

Thx Fraser.
I already purchased a set fitting on a 1/2" drive, knowing I had to have the T60.
The ones I have are actually hollowed (called TT I think).