Rear Control Arm Removal
#1
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Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere, but I just spent an hour looking and cannot find the answer.
I am trying to remove the right lower rear control arm and struggling with the rear inner bolt (so the bolt that goes through the inner bush at the rear of the wishbone).
Is that a captive nut, locked in place, or should it spin? - Answered this one myself, yes there is, it has a plate/finger welded to it, so turn only the bolt.
And why remove the brake caliper? - Answered this one myself, bottom outer bolt fouls on caliper,
I am trying to remove the right lower rear control arm and struggling with the rear inner bolt (so the bolt that goes through the inner bush at the rear of the wishbone).
Is that a captive nut, locked in place, or should it spin? - Answered this one myself, yes there is, it has a plate/finger welded to it, so turn only the bolt.
And why remove the brake caliper? - Answered this one myself, bottom outer bolt fouls on caliper,
Last edited by cooldood; 02-05-2022 at 04:07 PM. Reason: added details
#2
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So... you're about to get a surprise when you try to remove the front inner bolt of that control arm: if it's like mine, the bolt will get trapped against the sheet metal when you try to take it out. Rest assured, it *will* come out, but you might have to use a rubber mallet to assist it. There is enough room for the control arm change procedure, but I suspect the control arms were assembled in the factory with the subframe separate which gives a whole lot more room to work with.
#3
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The job actually was not too bad, the self locking nut on the rear inner was surprising, and the bolt felt so tight/ready to snap. So different turning the whole bolt compared to just unscrewing a nut.
The front inner bolt was not too bad, I had to pull the plastic wheel arch liner towards the the outside of the car a few inches, but the bolt was not hampered by the sheet metal.
Main hassle was moving the brake caliper, then winding back the piston to get it all back on the disc (push and turn clockwise - the special tools are a huge help there).
Everything else was routine, including the cramped spaces and difficulty of accessing things :-)
FYI Car has springs/shocks not air struts.
Will do the left hand side in a couple of weeks, upper, lower and tie rod (new sway bar link already on).
The front inner bolt was not too bad, I had to pull the plastic wheel arch liner towards the the outside of the car a few inches, but the bolt was not hampered by the sheet metal.
Main hassle was moving the brake caliper, then winding back the piston to get it all back on the disc (push and turn clockwise - the special tools are a huge help there).
Everything else was routine, including the cramped spaces and difficulty of accessing things :-)
FYI Car has springs/shocks not air struts.
Will do the left hand side in a couple of weeks, upper, lower and tie rod (new sway bar link already on).
#4
#5
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Update, my bad, brake pads were not mounted correctly and binding.
So, coincidence or not?
Now there is a deep humming noise evident from the back at freeway speeds.
Seems to be more from the left, the side I have not done yet.
Sounds more like a driveshaft or maybe bearing issue?
Not had a chance to look at it yet, I will get the rear up on axle stands at lunchtime, look for damage, free play and maybe run it in gear and look for wobbling wheels and bearing noise.
Will plow ahead with changing control arms, then get wheel alignment and balance done.
So, coincidence or not?
Now there is a deep humming noise evident from the back at freeway speeds.
Seems to be more from the left, the side I have not done yet.
Sounds more like a driveshaft or maybe bearing issue?
Not had a chance to look at it yet, I will get the rear up on axle stands at lunchtime, look for damage, free play and maybe run it in gear and look for wobbling wheels and bearing noise.
Will plow ahead with changing control arms, then get wheel alignment and balance done.
Last edited by cooldood; 02-08-2022 at 03:32 PM.
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