When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When removing the upper arm, the manual doesn't mention the brake line hose that runs down the middle of it. It actually shows the hose running behind.. anyone else run into this? Any issues in disconnecting the brake line real quick and reconnecting? In my old Camry it wouldn't be an issue, haven't touch that part of the Jag yet.
The manual does not show it needs to be done because it theyre computer generated and not aware that the lines are in the way and have to be moved so they dont pay for a brake bleed. Uh okay so ill just remove the lines and not bleed the air out and the customer can have a sponge pedal then right? Ext warranty companies are the worst."it doesnt show that so we arent paying!" have sent picture in showing there is no way around it and it has to be bled when done! I swear if the workshop manual didnt say to add oil on a oil and filter change they wouldnt pay for that either. Common sense is not very common anymore. I always bleed the rear brakes when done wether paid or not. This is one of many proceedures i have filed for correction with jaguar on the feedback sections they have. What do they do? They deleted the feedback section and never changed. You know the old saying. If i dont know something its of no concern of mine.
With the brakes, is there a way to stop the fluid from constantly draining when disconnected? with rubber lines you're able to pinch it off easily, I assume I'll end up losing a bit of fluid in this process with the metal lines.
with the brakes, is there a way to stop the fluid from constantly draining when disconnected? With rubber lines you're able to pinch it off easily, i assume i'll end up losing a bit of fluid in this process with the metal lines.
just have the arm aLready unbolted ready to remove. Then unbolt the 14mm bolt, slip the arm and line apart and slide the new arm in. Then bolt the line back up. You will loose a little fluid but not much if you do it this way. Then you can gravity bleed, vacuum or pressure bleed whn done with both sides
with the brakes, is there a way to stop the fluid from constantly draining when disconnected? With rubber lines you're able to pinch it off easily, i assume i'll end up losing a bit of fluid in this process with the metal lines.
Originally Posted by wingrider
strange the routing, one would think if the routing was done this way.
The caliper itself would fit through the space provided.
Is it possible to reroute the stock line, or is it just too short?
no you cant reroute, and caliper fit through? Way more work since you would also have to remove the caliper and the parking brake cable. It is what it is just have to deal with it. Try getting one where the ahole at the factory put the upper arm bolts in from the outside instead of through the middle. You then have to drop the subframe down to remove the rear upper bolt from the a arm. Thankfully i have only run into a couple. They go in real easy on the factory floor before the rear subfram goes in as an assembly. Just dont come out because they hit the body.
Try getting one where the ahole at the factory put the upper arm bolts in from the outside instead of through the middle. You then have to drop the subframe down to remove the rear upper bolt from the a arm. Thankfully i have only run into a couple. They go in real easy on the factory floor before the rear subfram goes in as an assembly. Just dont come out because they hit the body.
With the brakes, is there a way to stop the fluid from constantly draining when disconnected? with rubber lines you're able to pinch it off easily, I assume I'll end up losing a bit of fluid in this process with the metal lines.
One trick I use is to put cling-film under the reservoir cap, and tighten the cap down. Blocks the vent hole, and prevents any fluid escaping.
I'd still bleed the brakes though: just convince yourself it 'needed doing anyway' !
In fact, I'll be doing this soon: I've just done my Front Upper Control Arms, and need to do the Rears. All the boots are/were perished...
I use the same trick to seal a partially used bottle of brake fluid (for a few months max). Yes, I know they say 'use a fresh bottle every time' but that gets wasteful with multiple vehicles...
. Try getting one where the ahole at the factory put the upper arm bolts in from the outside instead of through the middle. You then have to drop the subframe down to remove the rear upper bolt from the a arm. Thankfully i have only run into a couple. They go in real easy on the factory floor before the rear subfram goes in as an assembly. Just dont come out because they hit the body.
i ran into this problem, angle grinder solved it in 15 seconds 👍
07-06-2019, 04:04 PM
Rear upper arm removal - brake line in the way?
