Rear wheel stud replacement 2004 XJR
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: New Bern NC and Lebanon OH.
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Rear wheel stud replacement 2004 XJR
When looking for a rear wheel stud on my 2004 XJR, I found that it was far from clear on line what part numbers would fit. I have just replaced one (June 2024) and I can tell you Dorman 610-484 M12-1.50 works, and my O’Reilly’s had it in stock.
The story: Some moron had way over torqued all lug nuts on the car and I actually broke a nut, not the stud. Had to get someone to burn out the nut and stud to get the wheel off.
Tip 1 – At first opportunity replace the terrible design stainless steel clad OEM lug nuts with good solid ones.
I didn’t want to remove the hub due to the really high torque on the nut, so I removed the hydraulic brake caliper, the parking brake caliper and the brake disk.
Tip 2 – Even with the parking brake in the maintenance position, I could not get the pads off the disk. I had to loosen the torx head bolts that hold the caliper together to get the pads far enough apart.
The stud will not just go straight in as is. It did go in with light persuasion after I ground a flat on the head of the stud and a bevel on the thread end (not into the threads though). Hopefully shown in photos. I approached around where the hydraulic caliper usually sits.
Tip 3 – At first I had trouble pulling the stud into place with the lug nut (locking pliers stopping the head rotating). Lubricating the thread made it much easier. Don’t forget to clean off the lubricant afterwords so you don’t get uneven tension on the studs.
The story: Some moron had way over torqued all lug nuts on the car and I actually broke a nut, not the stud. Had to get someone to burn out the nut and stud to get the wheel off.
Tip 1 – At first opportunity replace the terrible design stainless steel clad OEM lug nuts with good solid ones.
I didn’t want to remove the hub due to the really high torque on the nut, so I removed the hydraulic brake caliper, the parking brake caliper and the brake disk.
Tip 2 – Even with the parking brake in the maintenance position, I could not get the pads off the disk. I had to loosen the torx head bolts that hold the caliper together to get the pads far enough apart.
The stud will not just go straight in as is. It did go in with light persuasion after I ground a flat on the head of the stud and a bevel on the thread end (not into the threads though). Hopefully shown in photos. I approached around where the hydraulic caliper usually sits.
Tip 3 – At first I had trouble pulling the stud into place with the lug nut (locking pliers stopping the head rotating). Lubricating the thread made it much easier. Don’t forget to clean off the lubricant afterwords so you don’t get uneven tension on the studs.
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Thermite (06-16-2024)
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