Very strange thing happened this weekend. Saturday night, was out in the car, and everything was working fine. I parked it up, double locked it with the key fob.

Didn't use the car Sunday, came to get into it this morning to go to work, and I can't get any response from pressing the buttons on the keyfob, so I unlocked with the key in the door (started engine quickly as the warning tones were sounding to set off the alarm).

Got home from work today and tried the spare key fob. Nothing, no response from either. Tried the re-programming sequence, no joy.

My first port of call will be to replace the batteries in both fobs, but failing that has anyone any suggestions?

It's not the end of the world, as I can lock and unlock with the key in the door, but it's an annoyance more than anything.

Thanks in advance.

 

The fact that you opened the door with a key and it was chiming tells me that the actuator has not communicated with the DDM and the

PATS (security system) does not know that the door has been opened with a key. (happened to me a few times)

No response to remote key tells me that the DDM has not communicated with the actuator.

If changing the remote battery does not work I suggest that you unplug/replug and clean

DDM conections in the driver's door.

I suggest that you live with it for a bit -it might resolve itself otherwise you need to dismantle driver's door.

NB All of the above is just an educated guess on my part.

But this is not................

Do not use double locking................if an actuator fails in the double locked position (and they do fail) you have a real problem.

 

Meirion,
I can lock/unlock, drop and raise all windows, sun roof etc with the key in the driver's door and I can unlock all doors, boot etc with the fob, but when I press lock on the fob. nothing happens? All my door actuators are working?
I don't know whether to look at my DDM or perhaps the lock button on my fob has failed?
Please can you suggest what I should try next?

 

If you can lock and unlock all doors with a key then it's not the actuator.

You can unlock all doors with the fob then it could be the lock button

on the fob or a DDM connection.

I would dismantle the fob and see if you can press the button on the PCB

say with the end of a screwdriver and/or short the two connections under the PCB.


Spare fobs are available on E bay and not expensive also I seem to remember

that there is some one in the UK who can repair fobs (via E bay)

Cheers

 

Thanks Meirion1,

I tried as you suggested, but nothing happens when I press the small button on the circuit board or short the connection.
A while back everything worked except the rear passenger side actuator. Dead.
Then the lock button stopped working.
Recently, I have replaced that dead actuator. Now that door locks (with the key in the driver's door, not the button...nothing is locking with the button) but it des not unlock (with the key OR the button) although I can hear it click? It will not open using the outside handle but does open manually using the inside lever?
Could part of the problem be that I (maybe) did not make sure that the new actuator was at the same lock or unlock position as all the other actuators when I fitted it...So it is sort of out of sequence?

Thank you again for your help....

 

If it does not unlock with the key and it's clicking then the micro switch is probably ok but there is another fault with that actuator.

Did you fit an used actuator?

These actuators can fail mechanically but I forget the details how.

I can't imagine how you could have got things out of sequence.

Sounds like you may need a replacement remote too.

If you remove the actuator connect it up before you replace it and see if it's working

or test it on the bench. It has four pins only 3 are used -test for continuity to see which

pins you need to connect the 12v.

Cheers

 

Thank you Meirion1, as usual!

I fitted a second-hand actuator. I will remove it again and test it.
If I end up finding I have an original actuator with a failed micro switch and a replacement that has failed mechanically, is it possible (easy) to (say) remove the micro switch from the replacement and fit it to the original?

Incidentally (and for your interest) my original actuator was marked Jaguar, but the replacement is Ford.....

 

Incidentally (and for your interest) my original actuator was marked Jaguar, but the replacement is Ford.....[/QUOTE]

I have not heard of that before-I assume it's identical?

I have replaced micro switches and it's reasonably straight forward to do.

If you need to do that I can give you a few tips.

 

I have not heard of that before-I assume it's identical?

I have replaced micro switches and it's reasonably straight forward to do.

If you need to do that I can give you a few tips.[/QUOTE]

On closer inspection, the original also had Ford stamped on the base of the metal plate that engages the lock, but Jaguar on the plastic fitting that clips into the assembly...The replacement has Ford on both, but appears identical?

Anyhow, yes please Meirion1, when you have time, please post tips for me?

 

Ok you need to open up the actuator by undoing ?3 screws and removing the cover

for which you need three hands.

There is a row of white plastic 'spots' along one side of the cover (the straight row)

and two plastic clips on the other sides at right angles to the cover.

You should insert a thin metal blade behind the row of white spots

having already unclipped the plastic clips on the sides.

Replace the thin metal blade with the end of a screwdriver and lever

off the cover at the side with the thin metal blade.

Having exposed the micro switch saw off the brass connectors with a junior hacksaw blade and

the lift up the switch.

Note that the replacement switch can be located precisely because of the two plastic locating pins underneath the switch.

On the 'new' switch cut the brass connectors to match the ones left in the body and solder in place.

Replace cover.

Good luck

 

Meirion1, some questions, please?

None of my doors lock with the fob, but three of them unlock with the fob and the key? You have already told me that this is symptomatic of a failed microswitch in the Driver's Door.....Correct, please?

My doors lock themselves if I leave them unlocked...Is this normal, please?

My rear passenger door (with its replaced second-hand actuator) remains locked when the other doors unlock with the fob. Even if I use the key in the driver's door it stays locked. The only way to unlock it is manually, from inside? The outside lever dos not unlock? Yet when I use the fob and the key, you can hear the actuator clicking?

Any ideas what I have done incorrectly?

 

'None of my doors lock with the fob, but three of them unlock with the fob and the key? You have already told me that this is symptomatic of a failed microswitch in the Driver's Door.....Correct, please?"

This is getting very complicated and I am still learning myself!

You have asked me about swapping micro switches and the answer is yes I have just done that myself.

My driver's door now works with the remote but when I use the key it works but it's beeping so the alarm

will go off if I don't insert the key. This means there is a problem with one of the lock or unlock status switches.

I never use the key so I can live with that problem.

'My doors lock themselves if I leave them unlocked...Is this normal, please?' yes 'drive away locking'

Re your rear passenger door all I can say is I have never had a bad used actuator.

Did you test the actuator on the bench before installing?

If you have a look at the electrical guide you will see that there are status switches associated only with the drivers' and passenger doors

These switches are driven by the actuator motor and I don't know how they affect the way the locks work.

 

Thanks Meirion1,
Agreed....complicated; mine seems to have a mind of it's own!

Even if I have left the car unlocked overnight, I go down in the morning to find that my doors have sometimes locked themselves? Sometimes they haven't? My wife gets out of our parked car leaving me sat in it and when she returns, her door is sometimes locked? Sometimes, when I pull away the doors lock correctly, but sometimes they cycle through lock, unlock, lock etc until I press the button above my drivers door lock-pull? Difficult to know where to start.....

Gonna take your suggestion and retest both driver and rear passenger actuators.

 

When you test an actuator remember to move the latch to the closed position first ie door shut.

Check pins for continuity between two and then apply 12volts then if it'fires' find

continuity between two more pins and apply 12volts.

You probably know all this already?

note that any tension or trapping of the cable to the interior handle can cause fluttering.

they cycle through lock, unlock, lock etc until I press the button above my drivers door lock-pull?

Some thing is preventing it locking-could well be the cable.

BTW re Jaguar or ford locks I found the metal on the locks stamped Ford and the plastic cover has Jaguar on it.

I am sure the lock itself is Ford.

 

Meirion1, thank you very much for greatly improving my knowledge of how our central locking works!

I have sorted the passenger rear door lock. It was simply my stupidity! I had failed to slide the plastic securing rings around the outer part of the cable that goes from the inner door release handles to the lock properly into their recess in the door card before reassembling my door!! Obviously, the whole cable was moving, not just the inner part? It now unlocks perfectly (as do all my doors now) with both key and fob!

So my only remaining problem is that my doors only lock with the key, not with the fob. I guess (if necessary) I can live with that.....

However, as you previously posted, this probably means that my Driver's door actuator is faulty. Can I test it to confirm that? (and if so, an idiots guide to how would be gratefully received), or (in your opinion) should I just get on with it and replace it, please?

 

Well done I have made a similar mistake myself !

"It now unlocks perfectly (as do all my doors now) with both key and fob!"

" my only remaining problem is that my doors only lock with the key, not with the fob".

I assume the second statement is correct?

Do the buttons on your fob for switching on headlights and opening the boot lid work?

Have you tried reprogramming the fob?

Do you have a spare actuator or just a micro switch?

 

"My only remaining problem is that my doors only lock with the key, not with the fob". CORRECT
"Do the buttons on your fob for switching on headlights and opening the boot lid work"? THE BOOT LID BUTTON WORKS BUT THE HEADLIGHT BUTTON HAS NEVER WORKED?
"Have you tried reprogramming the fob"? YES, BUT I WILL TRY AGAIN
"Do you have a spare actuator or just a micro switch"? NEITHER....I AM ASSUMING I WILL NEED TO BUY SECOND HAND DRIVERS DOOR ACTUATOR

 

If you can open the boot lid with the fob then the fob is working hence no need to reprogram.

The fob uses the microswitch but the key does not.

The problem is likely to be the microswitch.

You can replace the driver's door actuator with a new one but $$$$$ or an used one but they are hard to come by
.
NB American ones no good because LHD .

Or you can replace the microswitch from a suitable donor actuator.

Or you can replace the microswitch with an Omron switch which will have to butchered to fit.

First job remove actuator.

You will find an aluminium cover around the rods from the handle and the lock.

It will be a bit of a fiddle working inside the door.

Second job

With actuator on the bench test pins for continuity-if none then good the microswitch is NBG

Cheers

 

Meirion1, thank you for narrowing this down for me; knowing what the problem is most likely to be is halfway to solving it!

Please could you clarify what you mean when you say no continuity equals a 'nasty but good' microswitch? Do you mean it has failed but this is good because I now have confirmation of exactly what the problem is?
Incidentally, I am in Dubai and (like the USA) they drive on the wrong side; accordingly, my car is LHD.

 

If you can't get any continuity on the actuator then 'good' you have confirmed that the actuator is faulty

and caused by a failed micro switch.

Glad you told me about LHD in Dubai. If you want to get an used one it will have to be an American one

unless you can get one locally.

All door actuators use the same microswitch but the drivers; door actuator has four status switches

and the passenger door actuator has two status switches(contained within the actuator).

Cheers